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Old 11-05-2014, 07:32 PM   #1
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Winterizing 260RLD

Hi all. New to the forum here and have a question about your experiences winterizing your Crusader (specifically 2013 260RLD). The pump refuses to draw the antifreeze from the freshwater by pass into the water system. I struggled with it last year also basically it just won't prime and draw even if I self prime it. I End up keeping the valve closed and I guess the antifreeze goes into the freshwater tank and for winterizing. I called the dealer this year that I brought unit from and one of the service techs said that they were never able to use the bypass to winterize the system. Wonder if anybody else is had this experience and if you're able to overcome it? I'm contemplating putting another bypass on the suction side of the pump right at the pump and trying that. In 30 years of owning travel trailers I never had this much trouble when winterizing a RV.
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Old 11-05-2014, 07:45 PM   #2
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Make sure you've really primed it well, and that the fresh water tank valve is closed. I have had the same problem after the fresh water tank has been empty and unused foe awhile. I pour maybe 2cups into the intake hose and run the pump for maybe 2seconds and repeat this until I get it pumping. It seems to need a good prime IF the pump hasn't drawn fresh water for awhile.

The first time I winterized, I had just used the fresh water tank and had no issues. I want to remember to put some water into the fresh water tank and use it before winterizing next year to see if that really is a solution. Good luck!
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2012 Crusader 290RLT TE, TrailAir flex pin: 2012 Toyota Tundra 5.7 SR5 Dbl cab 4X2 Tow, 4.30 gears, RideRite air, TRD cold-air induction & dual exhaust: Reese 16K Slider: TST tpms
Miles towed to date: 18,950 Nights camped 192
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Old 11-05-2014, 07:49 PM   #3
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I actually had a funnel in the freshwater bypass tube pouring antifreeze into the funnel and it would not draw.
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Old 11-05-2014, 07:51 PM   #4
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And the valve in the line between the pump and the fresh water tAnk was in the closed position?
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2012 Crusader 290RLT TE, TrailAir flex pin: 2012 Toyota Tundra 5.7 SR5 Dbl cab 4X2 Tow, 4.30 gears, RideRite air, TRD cold-air induction & dual exhaust: Reese 16K Slider: TST tpms
Miles towed to date: 18,950 Nights camped 192
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Old 11-05-2014, 07:54 PM   #5
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Yep.
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Old 11-05-2014, 07:56 PM   #6
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I' stumped!
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2012 Crusader 290RLT TE, TrailAir flex pin: 2012 Toyota Tundra 5.7 SR5 Dbl cab 4X2 Tow, 4.30 gears, RideRite air, TRD cold-air induction & dual exhaust: Reese 16K Slider: TST tpms
Miles towed to date: 18,950 Nights camped 192
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Old 11-05-2014, 08:49 PM   #7
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so both valves in to hot water heater closed and bypass open. then open value on suction tube to bottle. this has worked for me then turn on pump. I did this this year and had low point value open and lost a gallon of anti freeze before I saw it.
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Old 11-05-2014, 09:01 PM   #8
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Winterizing 260RLD

so both valves in to hot water heater closed YEP. and bypass open YEP. then open value (valve open YEP) on suction tube to bottle. this has worked for me then turn on pump. I did this this year and had low point value open and lost a gallon of anti freeze before I saw it (nope didn't do that).


As I said after 30 years of winterizing various RVs this has me stumped.
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Old 11-06-2014, 01:16 PM   #9
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How about opening a valve while you try and pump. If the system is perfectly air tight, the water would not draw in. Easy enough to try

Robert
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Old 11-06-2014, 01:18 PM   #10
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Good thought. I will try to test that this weekend and report back.
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