Winterizing questions

kozzy · 10-14-2012, 12:12 PM

Ok we'll it's been over 6 years since I had to winterized a camper...questions I have here and I'm hoping you guys can help.

First, well my old camper had a tube tv...and I never removed it...now I have LCD TV's in the unit...do those need to come out? Or will they be ok.
Second,,,I have max air vent covers on my vents..my unit will be stored uncovered outside, should I leave a vent or 2 open?
Any other not so obvious tips please feel free to share...thanks

donanddona · 10-14-2012, 12:43 PM

I have winterized my 5th wheel in the north chicago area for two years now. Once by antifreeze and one by blowing air. I leave the LED and LCD tv in the RV for the winter and they still work fine. I additionally have max air vents on mine and I do not leave anything open nor anything running. The only connection is the batterytender charging the battery. My Rv stays in the driveway and in the snow uncovered. I do open it up (all windows, vents, doors, and drains) the first day of april.

**Herk7769** · 10-14-2012, 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by donanddona

I have winterized my 5th wheel in the north chicago area for two years now. Once by antifreeze and one by blowing air. I leave the LED and LCD tv in the RV for the winter and they still work fine. I additionally have max air vents on mine and I do not leave anything open nor anything running. The only connection is the batterytender charging the battery. My Rv stays in the driveway and in the snow uncovered. I do open it up (all windows, vents, doors, and drains) the first day of april.

I do pretty much the same except:

1) Always used antifreeze
2) I use the converter to trickle charge that batteries
3) I do cover the air conditioner and tires

That's it. TVs and radio stay in camper plugged in. The boards stay warm since the TVs and radio are instant on and that provides enough warmth inside the case to keep everything toasty.

kozzy · 10-14-2012, 07:16 PM

Sounds good. I actually blow the lines about then use antifreeze...better safe than sorry I guess. My battery goes in the basement with my boat batteries on a battery tender..

portliz · 10-20-2012, 01:35 PM

We have been told to crack the vents slightly to avoid condensation. Is this correct? We also put in some stuff - I think it is called dri rid to capture any moisture.

Oakman · 10-20-2012, 02:11 PM

The televisions should be fine over the winter. I had the Maxx Air vents on my previous two trailers and left two of the three vents opened slightly over the winter to help control condensation. Never had a leak in 8 years.

kozzy · 10-22-2012, 05:40 PM

I can't remember if I left mine open in my old unit or closed. I left them closed this time. I think it's a toss up. I guess I'll see

rracer5 · 10-28-2012, 09:06 AM

Always used antifreeze and only had one mishap in 5 years (forgot to run the antifreeze up the shower hose/head and the handheld plastic shower head split). Since we store ours in in an outside storage facility, I remove the Tv's and battery and store them at home. I did research on LCD Tv's and some manufacturers who even covered the subject recomended storing Tv's above minus 19 degrees F (unless like HERK says, they are left plugged in to shore power.

kozzy · 10-28-2012, 09:16 AM

Damn,

Wish I took mine out now , battery is out. Tv is in

donanddona · 10-28-2012, 04:28 PM

Winterized mine in the Chicago area three years now. Twice with antifreeze once with LP air. Never took out the TVs (LCD's and LED's) Never left shore power connected and never took out the battery. I did connect a battery tender. So far so good......

pburgjeff · 10-28-2012, 05:39 PM

Has any one had trouble with geting the 12 volt pump to prime on a 2013 sierra 365 saq. Trying to winterize also says to close valve A and open valve B along with the by pass for the hot water heater. I found the by pass valve but do not see the others. Are they hidden some where?"Also I did open the valve for the suction line that goes in the antifreeze bottle. Sure is different than our old dutchman that I put a t on the line at the pump turn a couple valves at the water heater hour later I was done. Any thoughts would sure be a big help. Thanks Pburg Jeff

kozzy · 10-28-2012, 09:21 PM

At the valve for the sustion tube for the antifreez, you should have a valve to shut off the supply from your fresh water tank, make sure that is closed.
On your hot water tank, you need to open the bypass valve, and close 2 valves that lead to your hot water tank.
Well, that is assuming you have a true bypass kit installed. I am sure there might be different varations out there.

dwaynerz · 10-28-2012, 09:40 PM

you folks in the northeast may be living in your campers in a day or so. might be the only things wiith heat. good luck to you and let us know how you make out.

rracer5 · 10-28-2012, 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dwaynerz

you folks in the northeast may be living in your campers in a day or so. might be the only things wiith heat. good luck to you and let us know how you make out.

Got it hitched up to the truck for extra weight already......bring it on !!!!

kozzy · 10-28-2012, 10:18 PM

mine is at the dealer getting some work done...if it flys away, they owe me a new one, hell its still under warantee right???

RockyMtnHigh · 10-28-2012, 10:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by portliz

We have been told to crack the vents slightly to avoid condensation. Is this correct? We also put in some stuff - I think it is called dri rid to capture any moisture.

I keep our vents all sealed up, but then use a Dri-Z dehumidifier over the winter. Seems to do a good job of keeping the humidity down. We have a number of freeze/thaw cycles each winter due to our Chinook winds, so moisture is a concern. Never had any issues with mold/mildew.

dwaynerz · 10-29-2012, 04:42 PM

what do those of you with water filters do? fill with filter in place? remove filter and fill sight glass with antifreeze?

kozzy · 10-29-2012, 06:11 PM

i dont have a water filter system, but I know you want to remove the filter. Most of the systems I have seen have a bypass, I would removed the housing and turn on the bypass, dont have to worry about it cracking then.If you dont have a bypass, might want to think about making one up.

donanddona · 10-29-2012, 06:13 PM

Yes you have to remove the filter. After I have everything inside done it's one of the last things (filter removed and canister removed) I complete outside. don't forget the handheld outside to....

TnCowboy · 10-29-2012, 06:36 PM

I blow out the lines with a compressor set at 30PSI, run all faucets till just air, also blow out the drain lines to empty traps. Remove the water filter cartidge, and drain grey and black tanks good. I can get to my blade valves to clean and put a little vaseline on gakets, close em up. Then use the 12 volt pump to run RV antifreeze in till all faucets hot & cold run pink. Put about 1 1/2" in toilet with valve closed.pour about 1/2 gallon down each drain to fill traps and get some to the tank valves. Close all vents $ windows, place a couple of the "Damp Rid" containers in rig with about 8 "Bounce" Dryer sheet spread through out. Make sure no liquids left in rig, No food, fridge doors open. Pull battery an charge it full then store in garage. I use a ADCO camper cover, on my second one in 8 years and so far everything has survived GREAT. Bounce sheets smeel great ans supposed to help keep out critters. Come spring I open it up and use the 1/2 cup of Chlorine Bleach to 30 gallons of water into Fresh Water tank, run it through system till clear water, chlorine smell at each faucet. leave it for 24 hrs. flush it with fresh water install new filter cartidge, and redy to go.

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