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Old 12-10-2014, 07:16 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Yarome View Post
Ummm.. you DO realize that sound travels for miles? That out in the sticks the sound and fumes from your burning genset severely impacts the immediate wildlife patterns? Many with nocturnal tendencies... Simply the vibration can affect wildlife patterns for weeks...

That's a real good way to wake up to sugar in your genset. LOL



I don't mean to be harsh... but if you don't have the respect to conform to where you are.. you have no business being there.

I will step of my soap box...
I don't mean to sound harsh, but come to my site and try vandalizing anything, you're taking your well being into your hands.

Dont kid about such things. The very presence of humans disturbs wildlife, so if you're that concerned then none of us should be there.
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Old 12-10-2014, 07:37 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by gljurczyk View Post
That brings up a good question do you know how many amps are sent to your battery by your alternator? Always wondered that. In the Marine industry they have alternators that will put out 125 amps. For shorter engine running time on a sail boat. It also would replace the one on your TV. I have never measured it, Just wondering if you know?
Glenn, I need to answer you better. In your vehicle, your alternator (which on a test bench can actually put out twice it's rated amps number.) can actually feed the vast majority of its rated amps to the vehicles starting batteries. They have 8-10 gauge wire feeding the power distribution circuit, some are even in the 6 gauge arena. That can carry in the 100+ amp range to recharge the battery quickly after starting.

Most cars and trucks today are in the 110+ amp alternator bracket, some trucks are equipped with 200+ amp alternators. Their cables from the alternator to the power distribution center are sized to allow full energy output from the alternator. Just like on the boats you mentioned, they can bring batteries back about as fast as they'll absorb the energy, starting batteries have thinner plates than out deep cycles and can absorb energy very quickly, modern systems give them that.
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Old 12-10-2014, 07:39 PM   #23
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Ea

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I don't mean to sound harsh, but come to my site and try vandalizing anything, you're taking your wellbeing into your hands.

Dont kid about such things. The very presence of humans disturbs wildlife, so if you're that concerned then none of us should be there.
That was a tongue in cheek Sknight. No offense intended LOL Good luck with that...
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Old 12-11-2014, 10:32 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by chaslorr View Post
How long will my battery run the furnace when not connected to electricity? Is it reasonable to assume it would power it for a night stop over, and then after a days driving and charging from the tow vehicle, power it for another night. This would be without using any other draws such as lights and such. Have Rockwood Minilite 2109S with single 12 volt battery.
Based on some personal experience, it is unlikely that a short drive will replace the amperage draw from a night of heavy furnace use in a few hours of driving.

See the attached PDF as to why a vehicle's alternator is a poor charger for deep discharge batteries. While they do a great job of running your vehicle's electrical load and replacing the surface charge drained by starting your truck, the alternator's charging circuits are "seeing" the combined voltage of the starting battery and the storage battery in the camper. It will automatically reduce the charging current based on the sensed voltage.

Since the truck's battery will be nearly fully charged and there are blocking diodes to prevent the discharge of the starting battery into the camper's battery, the amperage available on the camper pigtail's Vcc to charge the hundreds of amps missing in the deeply discharged camper battery will be limited to several amps regardless of wire size you use.

Swapping the starting battery and the trailer battery most likely won't work either in newer cars, since they will not run without a battery installed; nor will the even moderately discharged trailer battery be able to deliver the huge momentary amperage draw required to start the truck due to the available capacity reduction from the Peukert Effect (thus the difference in construction between a starting and deep discharge battery).


Without a doubt, the best way to do this is to buy a 900 watt portable generator 900 Peak/700 Running Watts, 2 HP (63cc) 2 Cycle Gas Generator EPA/CARB and a small 2 stage dedicated battery charger 2/6 Amp, 6/12V Manual Charger.
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Old 12-11-2014, 12:28 PM   #25
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This brings up a question for me, is there a better way to charge the camper battery than through the trailer connector? Something that could be used on an isolated deep cycle battery such as a 12V to 12V charger?
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Old 12-11-2014, 12:49 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Herk7769 View Post
Based on some personal experience, it is unlikely that a short drive will replace the amperage draw from a night of heavy furnace use in a few hours of driving.

See the attached PDF as to why a vehicle's alternator is a poor charger for deep discharge batteries. While they do a great job of running your vehicle's electrical load and replacing the surface charge drained by starting your truck, the alternator's charging circuits are "seeing" the combined voltage of the starting battery and the storage battery in the camper. It will automatically reduce the charging current based on the sensed voltage.

Since the truck's battery will be nearly fully charged and there are blocking diodes to prevent the discharge of the starting battery into the camper's battery, the amperage available on the camper pigtail's Vcc to charge the hundreds of amps missing in the deeply discharged camper battery will be limited to several amps regardless of wire size you use.

Swapping the starting battery and the trailer battery most likely won't work either in newer cars, since they will not run without a battery installed; nor will the even moderately discharged trailer battery be able to deliver the huge momentary amperage draw required to start the truck due to the available capacity reduction from the Peukert Effect (thus the difference in construction between a starting and deep discharge battery).


Without a doubt, the best way to do this is to buy a 900 watt portable generator 900 Peak/700 Running Watts, 2 HP (63cc) 2 Cycle Gas Generator EPA/CARB and a small 2 stage dedicated battery charger 2/6 Amp, 6/12V Manual Charger.

I would think that a TV with a tow package would use a voltage regulator that would allow charging of TT batteries.

Do you know of after market regulators are available to replace the voltage regulated type? I have a 2008 Tundra.


Grey Nomads, Ron and Sue
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Old 12-11-2014, 12:52 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Pooneil View Post
This brings up a question for me, is there a better way to charge the camper battery than through the trailer connector? Something that could be used on an isolated deep cycle battery such as a 12V to 12V charger?
I assume you mean "by using the on board converter"?

The answer if you are plugged into shore power is; no.

The converter is a 3 (or 4) stage charger that will properly charge your battery at the proper voltage and rate for the exact level of battery charge at the time you plug it in. Using the on board (properly working) charger you will never need to worry about "boiling your battery dry" or reducing the life expectancy of the battery(s).

If your choice is a Generator's built in 12 volt charger, truck engine alternator, solar panels and controller, or a dedicated 3 or 4 stage battery charger plugged into the 120volt generator socket; the order I would suggest is:


1) Generator's 120 volt socket and 4 stage charger
2) Generator's 120 volt socket and 3 stage charger
3) Generator's 120 volt socket and 2 stage charger (watch the water level!)
4) Generator's 120 volt socket and 1 stage charger (REALLY watch water!)
5) Generator's 12 volt charger (if it has one)
6) Solar Panels and 12 volt Charge Controller
7) Truck Engine Alternator
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Old 12-11-2014, 12:58 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Roving Ron View Post
I would think that a TV with a tow package would use a voltage regulator that would allow charging of TT batteries.

Do you know of after market regulators are available to replace the voltage regulated type? I have a 2008 Tundra.


Grey Nomads, Ron and Sue
I seriously doubt that.

I even doubt there is one available as aftermarket that will allow two separate charging curves (one for the starting battery and another for the Vcc on the trailer pigtail).


If you do find something let us know...
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Old 12-11-2014, 02:40 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Herk7769 View Post
I assume you mean "by using the on board converter"?
I was thinking about the OPs question of charging a battery while driving and the subsequent discussion that the charge line was not suitable for this purpose with a well discharged battery.

My thought was that a 12V to 12V charger could be powered by the TV and connected directly to the battery. Has anyone done this?

I tried with an inverter and standard battery charger charger once. With modest results.
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Old 12-11-2014, 03:12 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by chaslorr View Post
How long will my battery run the furnace when not connected to electricity? Is it reasonable to assume it would power it for a night stop over, and then after a days driving and charging from the tow vehicle, power it for another night. This would be without using any other draws such as lights and such. Have Rockwood Minilite 2109S with single 12 volt battery.
Before we wander too much afield, Chas; did you get what you needed?
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