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Old 09-12-2011, 11:12 AM   #41
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I just called the RV dealer where I purchased the Roo. A new "basic" Group 24 battery runs $77 (plus tax) and an additional battery box is $12. I assume I can find a local source for the additional lengths of wire to connect the two in parallel.
This is certainly the way to go. Buy equal length cables with eyelet terminals from an auto store like Auto-Zone of pep Boys. Try to hook it up so the Plus wire from the camper goes to one battery and the negative (ground) goes to the frame from the other. This will allow equal resistance through both batteries and they will charge and discharge equally. If you hook the camper's wires to the same battery; one will have less resistance than the other and be overworked compared to the other. (see graphic)

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For roughly the same amount could I higher capacity Group 27 or 31? Ex. if $100 gets me a single high (enough, see above thread) capacity Group ZZ battery, I'd ditch the cheap-o 24 that came with it.Thoughts?
Most likely you will wind up with much less total capacity using a 100 dollar group 27 or 31. I would wait to see if the pair of 24's work out "good enough" for now and re-attack the issue when they need to be replaced. They must ALWAYS be replaced in pairs once you start using them as a "cell".
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Old 09-12-2011, 02:44 PM   #42
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BackInAction, just wondering why you calling your RV dealer for a battery and battery box.
both of these can be bought at a Walmart, for a lot cheaper.

if you dry camp a lot, like we do, i suggest a two battery setup, over a single Group 27.
i went with two Group 24 12v batteries, instead of two 6v golf cart batteries.
one reason is they were shorter and fit under my electric tongue jack motor and the other reason is that if one went bad, i could still use the other. can't do that with a 6v system.
i can go 4-5 days with my setup.
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Old 09-12-2011, 02:52 PM   #43
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X2 what bikedan said and i also have a solar battery maintainer that i have connected when not connected to shore power.

Sunforce 5-Watt Solar Battery Trickle Charger : Solar Power | RadioShack.com
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Old 09-12-2011, 03:17 PM   #44
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BackInAction, just wondering why you calling your RV dealer for a battery and battery box.
both of these can be bought at a Walmart, for a lot cheaper.
From what I've read, if you want to use two batteries (in parallel) you are suppose to get the same make/model. The original battery is only 3 weeks old. So, I assumed I'd buy a second from the RV dealer. Otherwise, I'd end up with two different make/models.
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Old 09-12-2011, 03:19 PM   #45
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it's better to have matching batteries but as long as you get another one with similar specs, you'll be fine.
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Old 09-12-2011, 03:50 PM   #46
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OK, I'll stop by a couple of store (walmart, autozone, etc.) and see what they have. I'll let you all help me decide if what I found is "good enough".
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Old 09-12-2011, 04:26 PM   #47
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I just received word from "Worldwide Battery" on some details of the Group 24 included with my camper...

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That is a 24 Deep Cycle made by Exide with 140 min. reserve capacity and 80 amp hour, with 500 marine cranking amps.
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Old 09-12-2011, 11:36 PM   #48
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OK, I'll stop by a couple of store (walmart, autozone, etc.) and see what they have. I'll let you all help me decide if what I found is "good enough".
Late business dinner, so I didn't get to WalMart until the wife fell asleep. Here's all they had in Group 24xxx:
  1. 24DC 75 A-H 500 CA* $59.94
  2. 24DP 105 A-H 675 CA* $68.97
  3. 24MS ?? A-H 625 CA* $58.94
* The price tag said CCA not CA like the battery's label.

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My existing battery's...That is a 24 Deep Cycle made by Exide with 140 min. reserve capacity and 80 amp hour, with 500 marine cranking amps.
So, I'd say #1 above is most like the one I have now.

Thoughts?
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Old 09-13-2011, 07:00 AM   #49
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BIA,

As you found out AH in a True deep Discharge battery does not relate well with the CCA number in a DP or Car Battery.

DO NOT buy your battery based on the highest CCA number.

CCA has almost nothing to do with storage capacity and battery life under constant load.

High CCA batteries have thin wafer plates to give up their charge in a "burst" (high cranking amp) while deep storage batteries keep their charge longer because their plates are thick and much more sturdy; thus slower to release their charge (lower CCA).

Also "Reserve Capacity" (RC) is not Amp Hours, but you can use it if nothing else is given to compare two batteries. RC is minutes till dead of a fully charged battery when a 25 amp draw is placed across it. The bigger this number is; the better. But AH has to do with plate construction ONLY.


http://www.propickupmag.com/files/20...ison-Chart.pdf
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File Type: doc MF Batteries.doc (112.5 KB, 30 views)
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Old 09-29-2011, 09:13 PM   #50
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As the OP, here's summary of my plans...
  • I bought another cheap-o Group 24 (and battery box) to match the one that came with the camper. I will wire them in parallel.
  • Added battery on/off switch for storage
  • Will take my small genset for morning recharge (via camper's converter) and to allow my wife to make her coffee.
  • After thinking about it more, I just might swap out 2-4 of the lights with LEDs so I don't have to be as crazy about limiting light use.
  • I'm still not sure about which heater to go with Mr Heater Buddy or the Wave. I'll probably get the Mr. Heater because it is just easier to setup/use. Plus it is half the cost.
I really think this setup will do more than what I need. Besides these two planned trips. I'm hoping if all goes well, my family will be willing to try some more dry camping (SF, NP, NF and a few of the nearby SP).
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