no electric or water

[OldCoot]

You will be lucky if your battery lasts 4 hrs let alone 4 days if you are going to run the refrigerator on 12v. Switch it to propane only. Flush #2 with water from a jug and no water with #1. DO NOT put paper in the toilet without water.

[Pipeman]

I think if everybody rereads the OP's post you'll see that they don't plan on using the fridge at all. They have a 5 day cooler.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Pipeman

I think if everybody rereads the OP's post you'll see that they don't plan on using the fridge at all. They have a 5 day cooler.

I would use the frig on propane and forget the cooler and take more water in it's place, or fill the cooler with ice and use the water when it melts.

[Pipeman]

If you use the fridge on propane then you use 12 volt power, do you not? Light in fridge, etc.

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by Pipeman

If you use the fridge on propane then you use 12 volt power, do you not? Light in fridge, etc.

Yes.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

You will be lucky if your battery lasts 4 hrs let alone 4 days if you are going to run the refrigerator on 12v.

the OP's trailer has a 2-way fridge, not a 3-way fridge, so it can't run on 12v.
only the lighting of the fridge's propane and the inside light when you open the door, uses 12v power.

anymore, 3-way fridges are only on popups and some truck campers.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Pipeman

If you use the fridge on propane then you use 12 volt power, do you not? Light in fridge, etc.

It is milliamps and you can run the frig on propane for weeks if that is the only draw on the battery, but I will bow out to the experts. Shut off all power & propane and just use it for a bunkhouse at night.

[JLeising]

If you have one battery, assume 100 amp-hour, and you don't want to damage the bettery, you don't want to draw it down to less than 50% (50 AH) remaining charge. So, you have 50 Amp-Hours to "spend".
Of note - see http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...aws-17300.html for typical appliance draws.
From that post, refrig in LP mode - 1.5 to 2 amps (control circuitry monitoring the temp to decide when to light or extinguish the propane, I believe). Also, LP gas detector, 0.5 amps. On my Solera the LP gas detector is combined with the CO detector (1 amp) and controls a solenoid which turns on or off the propane. I believe the combined detector / solenoid draws 2 amps or so.
Refrig plus detectors, 3.5 +/- amps; for 24 hours, 84 Amp-Hours used - exceeds 50 Amp-Hour "no battery damage" limit in one day.
Conclusion - either decide to regularly re-charge the battery in some way or leave most everything (including the refrg, propane and the detector) off except for short periods when you want to use something specific.

[OldCoot]

What you say is assuming the frig is using 84 amp hrs in 24, but that is assuming the ignite/turnoff circuit is being used continuously using 3.5 amps/hr. I don't think the monitor uses very much and the flame is only on for a few minutes every few hrs from what we see with ours.

If necessary, turn it on propane during the day and turn it off completely at night.

[JLeising]

I haven't measured the refrig itself - based my calculation on the link above - but I think you are correct - did an internet search and found someone who says he measured 120ma for the refrig "brain". The remaining real issue is the CO/Propane detectors and associated propane solenoid. I believe the detectors and solenoid in my unit - which can only be turned off by turning off the battery disconnect - draw 1-2 amps continuous (24 to 48 AHs in 24 hours). I have observed a drop on the battery monitor consistent with that level draw with everything else (including the refrig) turned "off". Result is about the same - after a day to a day and a half, with one battery, need to re-charge.
The different reported refrig draws may be related to "climate control" on some refrigs - door seal heater to prevent moisture buildup, as I understand - if on, sounds like it draws significant current.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by bikendan

the OP's trailer has a 2-way fridge, not a 3-way fridge, so it can't run on 12v.
only the lighting of the fridge's propane and the inside light when you open the door, uses 12v power.

anymore, 3-way fridges are only on popups and some truck campers.

Dan, the control power of the fridge is 12 volt DC. Computer and Solenoid gas valve, etc. about 200 milliamps monitoring and about 1.5 amps when burning the propane. (holding the valve open).

Not sure this discussion about actual power consumption is helping the totally brave mom with her question...

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by herk7769

Dan, the control power of the fridge is 12 volt DC. Computer and Solenoid gas valve, etc. about 200 milliamps monitoring and about 1.5 amps when burning the propane. (holding the valve open).

Not sure this discussion about actual power consumption is helping the totally brave mom with her question...

Herk, i assumed that Old Coot thought the OP's fridge was a 3-way fridge, that can be run on 12v DC, propane or 110v AC.

he said: "You will be lucky if your battery lasts 4 hrs let alone 4 days if you are going to run the refrigerator on 12v. Switch it to propane only."

[mom28]

Very interesting conversations!!

Thanks for all the replies. We are going to use the sinks and toilet, and watch the tanks. We plan to turn off the propane tanks at night.
And start saving for a generator.

But all this talk has got me thinking...we took the battery off the trailer because I read that it is better to store it in a warmer place than on the camper all winter. We just got the camper in mid Feb.

Will we have to plan to recharge the battery during winter storage months??

[Pipeman]

My batteries come out during the winter and I put gauges on them to tell where the voltage is. I put a smart charger on them once a month to bring them up to full charge. I'm sure others will answer your question with other methods.

[mjones12]

Originally Posted by bikendan

the OP's trailer has a 2-way fridge, not a 3-way fridge, so it can't run on 12v.
only the lighting of the fridge's propane and the inside light when you open the door, uses 12v power.

anymore, 3-way fridges are only on popups and some truck campers.

And Casitas and Scamps.

[caper]

But all this talk has got me thinking...we took the battery off the trailer because I read that it is better to store it in a warmer place than on the camper all winter. We just got the camper in mid Feb.

You should put the batteries on charge about once per month. The battery will discharge a small amount just sitting. Many people leave their batteries on a battery minder or a battery tender. They both work to keep your battery at a full charge.

[caper]

Home Depot rent the Honda 3000 generator. It might be and idea to check out the cost. If the cost is low it might be to your advantage to rent it for the time you are at the CG without services.

[compubmw]

Originally Posted by mjones12

And Casitas and Scamps.

Three way fridges are also inFR R-PODS

[mom28]

Originally Posted by caper

You should put the batteries on charge about once per month. The battery will discharge a small amount just sitting. Many people leave their batteries on a battery minder or a battery tender. They both work to keep your battery at a full charge.

What do you use to charge your batteries once a month?

We have a Schumacher Fully Automatic 2/10/50 trickle charger, battery charger/ w engine start for 12 V batteries that we used with our car battery.
Can we use this with the trickle charge if we watch closely to make sure we don't overcharge? Or do we need to buy another one?

[caper]

We have a Schumacher Fully Automatic 2/10/50 trickle charger, battery charger/ w engine start for 12 V batteries that we used with our car battery.
Can we use this with the trickle charge if we watch closely to make sure we don't overcharge? Or do we need to buy another one?

This charger will work it is fully automatic so it will not over charge the battery.