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Old 03-23-2013, 03:41 PM   #21
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You will be lucky if your battery lasts 4 hrs let alone 4 days if you are going to run the refrigerator on 12v. Switch it to propane only. Flush #2 with water from a jug and no water with #1. DO NOT put paper in the toilet without water.
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Old 03-23-2013, 03:48 PM   #22
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I think if everybody rereads the OP's post you'll see that they don't plan on using the fridge at all. They have a 5 day cooler.
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Old 03-23-2013, 03:56 PM   #23
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I think if everybody rereads the OP's post you'll see that they don't plan on using the fridge at all. They have a 5 day cooler.
I would use the frig on propane and forget the cooler and take more water in it's place, or fill the cooler with ice and use the water when it melts.
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Old 03-23-2013, 04:00 PM   #24
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If you use the fridge on propane then you use 12 volt power, do you not? Light in fridge, etc.
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Old 03-23-2013, 04:44 PM   #25
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If you use the fridge on propane then you use 12 volt power, do you not? Light in fridge, etc.
Yes.
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Old 03-23-2013, 05:06 PM   #26
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You will be lucky if your battery lasts 4 hrs let alone 4 days if you are going to run the refrigerator on 12v.
the OP's trailer has a 2-way fridge, not a 3-way fridge, so it can't run on 12v.
only the lighting of the fridge's propane and the inside light when you open the door, uses 12v power.

anymore, 3-way fridges are only on popups and some truck campers.
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Old 03-23-2013, 05:55 PM   #27
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If you use the fridge on propane then you use 12 volt power, do you not? Light in fridge, etc.
It is milliamps and you can run the frig on propane for weeks if that is the only draw on the battery, but I will bow out to the experts. Shut off all power & propane and just use it for a bunkhouse at night.
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Old 03-23-2013, 06:47 PM   #28
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If you have one battery, assume 100 amp-hour, and you don't want to damage the bettery, you don't want to draw it down to less than 50% (50 AH) remaining charge. So, you have 50 Amp-Hours to "spend".
Of note - see normal appliance amp draws for typical appliance draws.
From that post, refrig in LP mode - 1.5 to 2 amps (control circuitry monitoring the temp to decide when to light or extinguish the propane, I believe). Also, LP gas detector, 0.5 amps. On my Solera the LP gas detector is combined with the CO detector (1 amp) and controls a solenoid which turns on or off the propane. I believe the combined detector / solenoid draws 2 amps or so.
Refrig plus detectors, 3.5 +/- amps; for 24 hours, 84 Amp-Hours used - exceeds 50 Amp-Hour "no battery damage" limit in one day.
Conclusion - either decide to regularly re-charge the battery in some way or leave most everything (including the refrg, propane and the detector) off except for short periods when you want to use something specific.
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Old 03-23-2013, 07:17 PM   #29
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What you say is assuming the frig is using 84 amp hrs in 24, but that is assuming the ignite/turnoff circuit is being used continuously using 3.5 amps/hr. I don't think the monitor uses very much and the flame is only on for a few minutes every few hrs from what we see with ours.

If necessary, turn it on propane during the day and turn it off completely at night.
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Old 03-23-2013, 08:55 PM   #30
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I haven't measured the refrig itself - based my calculation on the link above - but I think you are correct - did an internet search and found someone who says he measured 120ma for the refrig "brain". The remaining real issue is the CO/Propane detectors and associated propane solenoid. I believe the detectors and solenoid in my unit - which can only be turned off by turning off the battery disconnect - draw 1-2 amps continuous (24 to 48 AHs in 24 hours). I have observed a drop on the battery monitor consistent with that level draw with everything else (including the refrig) turned "off". Result is about the same - after a day to a day and a half, with one battery, need to re-charge.
The different reported refrig draws may be related to "climate control" on some refrigs - door seal heater to prevent moisture buildup, as I understand - if on, sounds like it draws significant current.
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