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Old 03-29-2013, 09:15 PM   #1
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RV Inverter installation location advice.

I couldnt pass up slightly used Cobra CPI 1575W Inverter and remote switch for $50 .
My intention is to power my coffee maker over the sink, and "maybe" microwave a poptart in wee hours (quite time, no geni allowed).
In the afternoon I'll fire up the geni to charging my house batteries back up (+50W solar supplemented).

Now I need to find a place to wire it in my 2010 Georgetown class A .

I know many FR members have done just this and was wondering if any of you have an itemized list of what it took and how you wired it by chance? I don't want to spend more than 200 in accessories/wiring if possible.
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:20 PM   #2
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1. Mount closest to the batteries.
2. Your AC output will need to be dedicated to specific outlets. To do that it needs to be dedicated or a special switch installed to run outlets off of invertor of shorte power. That is best done close to the AC circuit breaker panel.

Here is the installion manual. Maybe it can help you decide.

Now you have to look and make the final decision.
Good luck
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Old 03-30-2013, 11:56 AM   #3
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TY for manual. I plan to install in a couple weeks and was searching.

My initial thoughts were to run an extension cord to what I needed when I needed it but it does seam quite ghetto to live this way.
What Ideally I would like to do is have an electrician wire it into my main panel as not to run extension cords but that would probably require some type of Transfer switch. :-(
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Old 03-30-2013, 12:56 PM   #4
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To make it simple they ueually have dedicated outlet in the area you want on the invertor. TV, sat receiver, surround sound or even the microwave.
You do know that the more you hookup to it the faster your batteries will go down....
If your batteries are old it will go down quickly
Test your batteries out and hook the invertor up before you install to an outlet and extension cord to see if they will handle the microwave oven.
What amp hour or cold cranking amps are your batteries?
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Old 03-30-2013, 07:51 PM   #5
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Only a couple INTERSTATE SRM-27's right now160Ah.

The inverter would be used for only the briefest of tasks though and I have battery warning alarm when my DC voltage drops below 12.
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:09 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoMoney View Post
Only a couple INTERSTATE SRM-27's right now160Ah.

The inverter would be used for only the briefest of tasks though and I have battery warning alarm when my DC voltage drops below 12.
160 AH will make coffee with an electric coffee maker but won't last the night if you use heat. Remember the capacity of the bank drops rapidly the more amps you take out at once.

A microwave "may not" work even if you have enough AH and properly sized inverter as some models REQUIRE Pure Sine power and not the cheaper Modified Sine inverters (cheaper ones).
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Old 03-30-2013, 10:49 PM   #7
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Yep, I've read many a thread by you Lou regarding inverters.

At this moment I have.

1. 1 x Cobra cpi1575 $50 (crossing fingers if the micro will work)
2. 1 x 50ft RJ11 Remote (thrown in)
3. 3 x 10ft 4AWG (Copper) welding cables red/black/green. $20
4. 2 x 12VDC Battery terminals w/Disconnect feature. $8
5. 1 x 25ft 12/3 Romex AC wire $25 (No idea where how to wire: Will be talking to an electrician.)


My intention is to keep it disconnected and only turn it on if I absolutely need 120VAC in the coach and no shore power available or gen allowed.
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Old 03-31-2013, 06:31 AM   #8
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your cheapest solution would be to mount the inverter close to the battery. closer is better and cheaper. you must have bigger wire 1500 watts is something on the order of 120 amps at 12v dc. size wire according. buy and use a catastrophic fuse, sized at max current, probably close to 150 amps.
Here's the cheap part, plug your shore power directly into the inverter. There's less voltage drop at 120v than there is at 12v. Open the breakers to things you don't want running on the inverter..fridge 120v, water heater 120v, a/c, converter-charger, etc.


couple of things:

lots of heat created by the inverter must be gotten rid of.

Your batteries may be damaged if you run any significant draw for more than a few moments. Microwave ovens draw a lot more than their rating. ex.900 watt microwave will draw around 1100 watts on startup. Plan on bigger battery bank in the near future.
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Old 03-31-2013, 11:30 PM   #9
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Thanks RPAspey for the install advice. I'll test Watt/Amp draw on each device to see where each device stands and mark breakers that must be off/on.
I'll probably build this out on a project board under the Dinette seats which are directly over the house batteries.

I'm not sure how I would get the AC wires to the back of the RV though. I'll need to crawl underneath and see. Maybe running a flexible romex conduit under the coach that would protect the wires against the weather, etc.


I've been debating weather to go with a 4AWG inline 150Amp ANLFuse (60Amp pictured but the one Im looking at says 150Amp) or an automotive 150Amp breaker. The Breaker would be easy to read and easy to disconnect from inside the coach but I'll probably go with the Fuse pictured below since it involves less connection points.
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Old 04-01-2013, 04:53 AM   #10
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run the fuses. They'll blow faster on a fault than the breaker will trip. And, you can start out with a low rated fuse, and replace it with a higher rated if needed. Up to max for wire size of course. And its cheaper.

You could get yourself a length of type MC#12 or #14 cable and run that under the cabin, to a rv outlet near the plug. The MC wire is metal clad with 2 conductors and a ground. advantages = cheap and easy. Disadvantages = not as protected. but if you can tuck it up in the framework, no problem.

You could also run 3/4" PVC conduit. put your wire in there. advantages = more protection and could run other wires for other stuff. disadvantage = more money, time, patients, maybe harder to do.
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