17FQ Modifications

[Jae1179]

Originally Posted by Austintatious

I recently noticed that change - glad I got a '16 because I make full use of that space under both dinette seats.

As far as mine goes:

>Added an electric trailer jack
>Added 15" wheels and load range D tires
>Installed a new control board and digital thermostat for the AC (best mod ever)
>Installed a flat panel TV
>Installed a privacy curtain at foot of bed
>Replaced factory mattress with a 10" memory foam (second best mod)
>Installed magnet strip by range to hang utensils
>Made a range top cover to increase counter space
>Changed all exterior marker lights to LED
>Added a blue LED lighting strip under the frame with a remote control On/Off and dimmer
>Installed towel hangers in bathroom
>Installed a cellular wifi router that uses the SIM from my T-mobile phone and lets me stream video (Netflix, DirecTV Now) without it counting against my monthly data allotment.
>Installed a PLEX media server (hardwired to router) and AppleTV (wifi connection to router).

I'd really like to do something with the storage space under the front of the bed so it's of a pull-out style rather than lifting up the top with the added weight of the memory foam mattress.

I'd also like to upgrade the exterior antenna. The current fixed, low profile mount doesn't get very good reception.

Where did you purchase the cellular WiFi router?

[Austintatious]

Originally Posted by Homersimpson

If like mine, the antenna is a Continuus 1500. They also have a better 2500 model, but I have not found it anywhere.

Looks like that's exactly the one I have! The 2500 doesn't offer any more gain (they are both 20db) but has 4 outputs instead of 2. I was primarily looking to see how the coax connection is accomplished and if I could tap off of it for a better antenna on a PVC mast.

[Austintatious]

Originally Posted by Jae1179

Where did you purchase the cellular WiFi router?

I started out with a little Netgear LB1120 ($120) hooked up to a cheap little HooToo Wifi Router ($16) and the combo worked pretty good. But then I was able to find a Digi Transport LR54 on eBay for half the price of new ($300 versus $600). It's amazing.

[Ky-N]

Originally Posted by WNY_Clipper

How/Where did you tie into the AC for a remote thermostat?

You replace the AC control box and that gives you the wiring necessary to make a thermostat connection. Best part is the darn fan will turn off when the AC compressor is off.

[WNY_Clipper]

Originally Posted by Ky-N

You replace the AC control box and that gives you the wiring necessary to make a thermostat connection. Best part is the darn fan will turn off when the AC compressor is off.

Do you have a link to the replacement AC control box?

[Austintatious]

Originally Posted by WNY_Clipper

Do you have a link to the replacement AC control box?

I used this one:

Coleman Mach heat-ready air conditioner cool control kit - Control Module - 9330C755 - 8330-752

I took the control board out of that housing, took the existing control board out of the existing metal housing already in the unit, and installed the new board. I then fish taped thermostat wiring thru the ceiling over to the area above the converter in the kitchen cabinets (I removed the converter for access). I brought the thermostat wiring down from the ceiling there and then went into the wall and fish taped it over to where the heater thermostat is mounted.

I removed the heater thermostat and installed this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I hooked up both the thermostat wiring from the A/C unit and the thermostat wiring from the heater so the thermostat controls both.

One thing I had to do to get it working correctly was run a ground wire from the thermostat to a ground bus on the converter.

[WNY_Clipper]

Originally Posted by Austintatious

I used this one:

Coleman Mach heat-ready air conditioner cool control kit - Control Module - 9330C755 - 8330-752

I took the control board out of that housing, took the existing control board out of the existing metal housing already in the unit, and installed the new board. I then fish taped thermostat wiring thru the ceiling over to the area above the converter in the kitchen cabinets (I removed the converter for access). I brought the thermostat wiring down from the ceiling there and then went into the wall and fish taped it over to where the heater thermostat is mounted.

I removed the heater thermostat and installed this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I hooked up both the thermostat wiring from the A/C unit and the thermostat wiring from the heater so the thermostat controls both.

One thing I had to do to get it working correctly was run a ground wire from the thermostat to a ground bus on the converter.

Thanks for the info!

[Ky-N]

Originally Posted by Austintatious

I used this one:

Coleman Mach heat-ready air conditioner cool control kit - Control Module - 9330C755 - 8330-752

I took the control board out of that housing, took the existing control board out of the existing metal housing already in the unit, and installed the new board. I then fish taped thermostat wiring thru the ceiling over to the area above the converter in the kitchen cabinets (I removed the converter for access). I brought the thermostat wiring down from the ceiling there and then went into the wall and fish taped it over to where the heater thermostat is mounted.

I removed the heater thermostat and installed this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I hooked up both the thermostat wiring from the A/C unit and the thermostat wiring from the heater so the thermostat controls both.

One thing I had to do to get it working correctly was run a ground wire from the thermostat to a ground bus on the converter.

This is exactly the same thing I did only I used a Honeywell thermostat from Walmart since I was there and it was handy

[WNY_Clipper]

My wife is complaining about how loud the AC unit is and I don't know if it would be worse having the fan turn on and off all night or just to stay on?

[Ky-N]

Originally Posted by WNY_Clipper

My wife is complaining about how loud the AC unit is and I don't know if it would be worse having the fan turn on and off all night or just to stay on?

It is without a doubt one of the loudest fans ever created. I was the one that fussed about the fan running all the time and believe me putting in the controller and having that loud fan shut off is one of the BEST things that has been done it. On low speed at night it will come on and it is was no where near the distraction for us (me) that it was when it ran all the time. Plus closing the vent blowing toward the bed with the back vent wide open helps with noise toward the bed, at least we think it does and that is what counts.

[Homersimpson]

I considered adding the Coleman-Mach heating coil to the AC as a convenient supplemental heating unit and using campground power rather than my propane where possible. And a heat/cool thermostat would operate both the heating coil and the AC, if not the furnace, too. But if the fan is so loud, maybe I shouldn't bother.

Our 17FQ is in the shop to replace the leaf springs under warranty, so no new mods for the next week or so. I like to tinker with a new toy, and I get some great ideas from you. This week is already painful to me.

[bigjoey38]

Hello all

I currently have a r pod 178 and may look at getting a 17FQ... Is there a facebook page for 17FQ owners?

[WNY_Clipper]

Originally Posted by Homersimpson

I considered adding the Coleman-Mach heating coil to the AC as a convenient supplemental heating unit and using campground power rather than my propane where possible. And a heat/cool thermostat would operate both the heating coil and the AC, if not the furnace, too. But if the fan is so loud, maybe I shouldn't bother.

Our 17FQ is in the shop to replace the leaf springs under warranty, so no new mods for the next week or so. I like to tinker with a new toy, and I get some great ideas from you. This week is already painful to me.

I feel your pain, ours is in storage and I pick it up this Saturday. Can't wait to get it home...

[WNY_Clipper]

Originally Posted by bigjoey38

Hello all

I currently have a r pod 178 and may look at getting a 17FQ... Is there a facebook page for 17FQ owners?

I haven't run into any Facebook pages devoted to out 17fq's. I think this is the best place to get any info you need.

[Homersimpson]

It has been a cold winter here, and DW cannot feel warm enough. Hence, my preoccupation with heaters.

I noticed that my Suburban NT-SEQ furnace has a removable port cover for a side duct. I got the 4" side port which will line up directly with a 4" vent when I cut the hole in the side of the cabinet. This will point some of the heat toward the bed instead of the dinette.

Recently took DW to southern Utah where it was 30 degrees warmer all week. Scouted for campgrounds while there. Next time, we'll take the trailer.

[WNY_Clipper]

Originally Posted by Homersimpson

It has been a cold winter here, and DW cannot feel warm enough. Hence, my preoccupation with heaters.

I noticed that my Suburban NT-SEQ furnace has a removable port cover for a side duct. I got the 4" side port which will line up directly with a 4" vent when I cut the hole in the side of the cabinet. This will point some of the heat toward the bed instead of the dinette.

Recently took DW to southern Utah where it was 30 degrees warmer all week. Scouted for campgrounds while there. Next time, we'll take the trailer.

Great idea! Post pictures when complete.

[La Plata View]

"I noticed that my Suburban NT-SEQ furnace has a removable port cover for a side duct."

Good catch on that additional duct. Where did you find the 4" duct?

BTW, after creating a drawer above the furnace I noticed a fair amount of heat would built up inside the cabinet. A quick mod was to cut an opening toward the top of the cabinet side to vent this this heat. I found a nice vent grate to cover the opening on Amazon.

[Homersimpson]

Here is all the installation manual says about the side duct:

12. NOTE: OPTIONAL DISCHARGE DUCT ADAPTER -The cabinet has a 4” diameter knockout on the left side of cabinet. (See Figure 6A.) A 4” diameter connector can be attached to this location to provide a warm air discharge duct. (Not to exceed 10” in length.)

See that it is only on the left side of the furnace as you stand in front of it.

P.S. Barry did well with adding the side grate on the cabinet. If there is minimal space on the sides for make-up airflow, a hole is to be cut in this same area. When he added the drawer in the make-up airflow area, heat began to build. Barry made the fix and made it look good.

[Ky-N]

Originally Posted by Homersimpson

I considered adding the Coleman-Mach heating coil to the AC as a convenient supplemental heating unit and using campground power rather than my propane where possible. And a heat/cool thermostat would operate both the heating coil and the AC, if not the furnace, too. But if the fan is so loud, maybe I shouldn't bother.

We just use a portable electric heater when needed and store under the bed when not.

[RandK-M]

Originally Posted by Austintatious

I started out with a little Netgear LB1120 ($120) hooked up to a cheap little HooToo Wifi Router ($16) and the combo worked pretty good. But then I was able to find a Digi Transport LR54 on eBay for half the price of new ($300 versus $600). It's amazing.

That looks interesting. How does it not count against your data allotment though?

Ray