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Old 05-17-2012, 07:55 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triguy

Okay. Here's the correct manual. The concept of readjusting is the same for this hitch just a little different from the Equal-i-zer.

Do you also have two friction sway controls that attach to the bars
No friction sway controls.
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Old 05-19-2012, 10:48 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SknirB View Post
No friction sway controls.

: is all i can say!
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Old 05-19-2012, 01:13 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by bikendan

: is all i can say!
Why? Im starting to wonder if I need to buy a new hitch....with all the bells and whistles. My TT is hardly noticeable behind my 3/4T truck and I have no issues with sway. Is there some other reason to have a WD hitch with sway control other than to control sway?
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Old 05-19-2012, 01:42 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by SknirB View Post
Why? Im starting to wonder if I need to buy a new hitch....with all the bells and whistles. My TT is hardly noticeable behind my 3/4T truck and I have no issues with sway. Is there some other reason to have a WD hitch with sway control other than to control sway?
I tow my Grey Wolf 19rr with a 3/4 ton truck and no WD hitch. I use one fricton type sway control unit. I also have air bags on the truck. I run them at 30psi. I have zero problems with sway and as you said, I bareley even know the trailer is behind me. Your trailer is much larger and heavier than mine though.
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Old 05-19-2012, 01:45 PM   #25
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Well, I'm not Dan, but you're towing the 310BHDS, which is a Trailer that is 35' long and weighs up to 10,000 lbs. Your round bar is a simple distribution hitch and added sway control is needed for a couple of reasons.

First, your trailer weighs much more than your truck and this contributes greatly to the potential for sway.

Second. Most people, including me, haven't experienced real sway, which is an uncontrollable occilation of the trailer that progressively gets worse. Often resulting in an accident. The push-pull from passing vehicles is not really the problem, although sway bars help to dampen that for those who experience it.

Personally, I would at least add two sway bars to your existing round bar WDH. But I would probably opt for a combination unit like the Reese Dual Cam or the Equal-i-zer.
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Old 05-19-2012, 03:19 PM   #26
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as Triguy said, you have a simple WDH that DOESN'T provide sway control, without adding friction bars.

only WDHs like the Equalizer or Reese Dual-Cam have built-in sway control and don't require the separate bars.

so all your WDH is doing is transferring weight to the front axle and not doing any sway control
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Old 05-20-2012, 10:54 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRZ
Not sure if you need a box idea but I did see this on a new trailer.
Thats a cool idea as well. Always nice to have an extra space for stuff!
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Old 05-20-2012, 11:04 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triguy
Well, I'm not Dan, but you're towing the 310BHDS, which is a Trailer that is 35' long and weighs up to 10,000 lbs. Your round bar is a simple distribution hitch and added sway control is needed for a couple of reasons.

First, your trailer weighs much more than your truck and this contributes greatly to the potential for sway.

Second. Most people, including me, haven't experienced real sway, which is an uncontrollable occilation of the trailer that progressively gets worse. Often resulting in an accident. The push-pull from passing vehicles is not really the problem, although sway bars help to dampen that for those who experience it.

Personally, I would at least add two sway bars to your existing round bar WDH. But I would probably opt for a combination unit like the Reese Dual Cam or the Equal-i-zer.
I - unfortunately - have experienced real sway with an enclosed snowmobile trailer and thankfully no one was coming in the opposite direction on the highway when it happened because it would have resulted in a major collision - that thing tossed me across both lanes. Saying that....the tongue weight on that trailer was very little and the load wasnt balanced inside - which is most likely what caused it and i was only driving a half ton truck.

My TT is the 300 not the 310 - the 30' model. Not that it makes that much of a difference in what you are saying but I have never experienced any kind of movement with it. Maybe it is the heavy weight on the front and the fact that i always run it with a tank full of water that makes the difference. Im thinking now that with all of this talk i should really investigate in a new setup. Hate to spend another 1k on a new hitch setup if i dont really need it ( Priced them out yesterday - wish i was in the states - much cheaper there lol )
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Old 05-20-2012, 11:09 PM   #29
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Here are some pics of my new setup....first one is the before. Trying to figure out what to do for the propane tank shield because now the plastic cover wont slide back on. Might make a "shield" out of the checkerplate. Anyone run without the cover on the tanks?



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This photo has the wheels for the genset - trying to figure out a ramp system for loading/unloading.

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