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Old 06-28-2014, 09:37 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Ford Idaho View Post
...I play the lotto now and then, if I can afford it so to can you.
Oh, I'd send you the money for the lottery ticket, but just don't have your luck.
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Old 06-28-2014, 09:47 PM   #32
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Oh, I'd send you the money for the lottery ticket, but just don't have your luck.
I'd love to help, but the contributing to the delinquency charge for doing so is just not worth it......






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Old 06-28-2014, 10:39 PM   #33
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Ah, so you have owned a trailer the same make model and year as mine, that's cool.
Different model, but the bumper could be mine's twin.
Obviously your mileage may differ.
Wish you continued luck.
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Old 06-28-2014, 10:59 PM   #34
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So there are no forth coming links or picture of ALL the failed bumpers that were summarily ripped right off trailers, save for one that was destined for failure due to the way it was welded.



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Originally Posted by Rico1971 View Post
Need to haul 4 bikes with us when we go camping. Dealer told us that our TT (Apex Ultra-Lite 259BHSS) couldn't handle more than 100# on the back bumper or it would void the warranty. Past 2 trips I've been sticking the bikes inside, but already made one scratch that's driving me crazy...don't want to have the bikes doing any more damage.

I've seen one 4-bike rack on-line that sits above the propane tanks, but it didn't look like it was worth the $500 price tag...

Suggestions?
Just a couple.
First off, get a roof mounted bike rack for the Durango and put two there.
Second figure out the total weight of your two lightest bikes and carry them like this.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...69837884,d.cGU
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Old 06-28-2014, 11:21 PM   #35
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Ford, many members have posted pics of failed bumper welds and detached bumpers, on various threads on the same topic.
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Old 06-28-2014, 11:47 PM   #36
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I can attest to Bumper flexing with nothing on it. My caps fall out, replace the most used side with a actual rubber one that stays in, taped the other one on. I did mount a bike rack but never drove with it as it was unsafe. Use a Thule on top of the truck cab.
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Old 06-29-2014, 08:32 AM   #37
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This is an open forum and everyone is free (within the rules) to post their experiences and recommendations on topics and questions. It is up to the reader to decide what course is appropriate for them.

It is certainly appropriate for you, and others, to post material contrary to what others have posted and that makes a world. As you stated previously, not all trailers are created equal and what might work for one, might not be good for another.

Some heavy duty campers can even take tow points on their frames and handle even heavy double tows just fine. Others, like my buddies Grand Surveyor could not handle the flex from his OEM spare tire for more than 5 years when it fell off on the way to the campground.

As always on an open forum; Caveat Lector.

If someone takes advice presented here and burns up their trailer, cracks their frame, or in some other way damages it while trying something presented here; I am sure no post contributor will pony up a few hundred bucks to say "I am sorry it did not work out for you."

There are lots of folks who are quick to post:

"Yea, no problem you can tow that with that; I do it all the time"
"Just re-wire it this way; the engineers have no idea what they are doing."
"There is a 200% safety margin in those numbers; you can safely exceed them!"
"Lawyers; not Engineers make up those numbers."
Etc. You can find them in every thread.

I am sure all are well meaning folks and they are completely sincere in their advice. However, in an open forum it is like putting a loaded gun in a room full of strangers of varying familiarity with firearms. Some are able to separate the wheat from the chaff and determine what is within their capability and what is not; others not so much and get in over their head before they know they are in trouble.
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Old 06-29-2014, 09:06 AM   #38
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I would very much appreciate any information/plans you would share with me for this. I have wanted to do this with our 320 as well.

thanks in advance.
I made this a year ago and wanted to get some miles on it before posting. My bolt count in my earlier post is off by a few, my apologies for this. The bottom I-beams on the camper have a 3" lip this is why I started with attaching a 3" angle iron.
2-3"X20"X3/16" thick angle irons
1-2"X4"X1/4" thick tube that is 71.25 inches long
8-7/16X1" length bolts, nuts and lock washers. 5/8" head
4-1/4"X1" length self tapping bolts with washers. 3/8" head
1-2"X12" Receiver
2.5"X4" Plate 3/16" plate cut in half diagonally to support Receiver
5.5" tall gusset welded in middle vertically and attached with self tapping bolts to inside rear tube of camper.
After I bolted up the angle Irons to the bottom of the camper I slid the 2X4" tube (horizontal) between them and leveled fore and aft, then tacked into place. After positing the receiver and center gusset, tacking them into place I removed the whole unit and finished welding, installing side gussets to the receiver.
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Old 06-29-2014, 09:12 AM   #39
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Super 8 you should be good as you have a structural I beam frame and not the 3 pc 0.075" thick welded I beam used on Lite weights and Ultra lite weight units.
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Old 06-29-2014, 09:27 AM   #40
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Super 8 you should be good as you have a structural I beam frame and not the 3 pc 0.075" thick welded I beam used on Lite weights and Ultra lite weight units.
This is what I figured also, thanks.
Yesterday's project was to install a bracket that attaches the plastic bow that carries the wiring on the rear slide out. The rear slide out travels 3/4" further than the bow is allowed to stretch causing it to rip the end off.
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