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Old 10-30-2015, 08:47 AM   #1
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Do Your Water Pipes Drain ????

Seems that our new 2015 Coachman 297RLDS was plumbed by someone that did not understand water flow. It has many areas that the pipes run upwards and hold water in the pipes. I have had many RV's and have always been able to open all the water faucets and drain pipes through the low point outlets. I also see the kitchen faucet that is a pull out sprayer type has a long loop in the hose that will not drain even when you pull it up all the way. The only thing I can think of to do is remove the faucet screens after each trip and blow them out from inside. I do not want water sitting in the pipes between trips. Does anyone else have these issues ????
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Old 10-30-2015, 07:47 PM   #2
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make a fitting for your air compressor with a garden hose end and install it in your city water hook up. Blow everything out then add some rv antifreeze to the traps, done deal.
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Old 10-31-2015, 12:12 PM   #3
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Buy one of these blow out fitting at your local RV shop or on-line.


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It screws onto the city water connection on your trailer. Attach an air line to the fitting. Keep the air pressure from your compressor fairly low ~30lb so as not to damage any of the plumbing. Go through the trailer opening each faucet and you'll see some water come out then just hissing air. Close that faucet and go to the next one. I'd suggest starting at the closest faucet to the city water inlet moving towards the one farthest away.

And don't forget to drain your hot water heater tank. Many have an anode rod attached to the drain so it also gives you the chance to inspect it while draining the tank.
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Old 10-31-2015, 01:53 PM   #4
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I screw mine into my pressure regulator before attaching it to trailer. Can't be to safe.
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Old 10-31-2015, 03:27 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by ccsvolsfan View Post
I screw mine into my pressure regulator before attaching it to trailer. Can't be to safe.
Good idea
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Old 10-31-2015, 03:50 PM   #6
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Good idea
Yeah. That is a good idea.
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Old 10-31-2015, 03:50 PM   #7
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Camco Blow Out Plug, Brass - Walmart.com

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Old 11-01-2015, 03:02 PM   #8
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I don't understand your reluctance to allow water to remain in the plumbing system between your camping trips. Since city water is chlorinated, no harm in leaving the water in the pipes while the unit is sitting.
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Old 11-01-2015, 03:41 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by La Plata View View Post
Buy one of these blow out fitting at your local RV shop or on-line.

Attachment 93372

It screws onto the city water connection on your trailer. Attach an air line to the fitting. Keep the air pressure from your compressor fairly low ~30lb so as not to damage any of the plumbing. Go through the trailer opening each faucet and you'll see some water come out then just hissing air. Close that faucet and go to the next one. I'd suggest starting at the closest faucet to the city water inlet moving towards the one farthest away.

And don't forget to drain your hot water heater tank. Many have an anode rod attached to the drain so it also gives you the chance to inspect it while draining the tank.
Or if you have a system to add antifreeze use that hose. As mentioned, bypass and drain the water heater first.

Jim
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Old 11-01-2015, 05:48 PM   #10
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The Camco blow out plug shown is useless unless you have a second person to open the faucets. A locking tire air chuck won't work because the horizontal pressure on the connection will cause it to leak. Of course, you could always hook that adapter up to your brass 90 degree elbow as an alternative.

I made my own adapter using a plastic hose cap and a double male hose connector. The cap is also used to blow out water lines at my home. HFT sells the male compressed air fittings for around $0.79 and plastic hose caps are usually 2/$1.00. The double male adapter is the most expensive piece, costing around $5. If you have an old broken hose, you might be able to cut the male end off of it and for $2.50 add a new male end to a 6" long piece of hose.

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Old 11-02-2015, 11:58 AM   #11
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Reply to post #8: Before retirement I held a State of Georgia Water Treatment license. Most, but not all, municipal potable water systems do add chlorine to the water to prevent a large range of bacteria, molds, etc. BUT--leaving this type water standing in a pipe/hose for three (3) days and the chlorine will evaporate (for lack of a better term). This leaves the water subject to rising ambient air temps which will raise the water temp and lead to Legionnaire's Disease. Even though the water is trapped within the hose/pipe the LD will grow and the spores will become airborne. The next time you open a faucet which this hose/pipe supplies you will get the LD spores in both the liquid of the water and airborne. You would have to flush your hose/piping lines with a large amount of fresh chlorinated water to kill these spores. Blowing out the lines of you RV with air leaves some water in the lines and LD would love to grow within these lines as they love warmth, darkness, and a little water. Your safest bet may be to add the anti-freeze, although I particularly don't like that method, or by adding some Clorox to the system. Figure about one cup of Clorox to a gallon of water. BUT--Clorox can/will cause certain types of plastic lines to deteriorate. I'm usually the one people call "different" and I keep my water aelectricity hooked up while the TT is parked at home. I keep the inside temp at 76 degrees during hot weather and 66 degrees during cooler weather. I go into the unit often and turn on every water faucet for a minute or two just for this purpose.
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Old 11-02-2015, 01:20 PM   #12
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Reply to post #8: Before retirement I held a State of Georgia Water Treatment license. Most, but not all, municipal potable water systems do add chlorine to the water to prevent a large range of bacteria, molds, etc. BUT--leaving this type water standing in a pipe/hose for three (3) days and the chlorine will evaporate (for lack of a better term). This leaves the water subject to rising ambient air temps which will raise the water temp and lead to Legionnaire's Disease. Even though the water is trapped within the hose/pipe the LD will grow and the spores will become airborne. The next time you open a faucet which this hose/pipe supplies you will get the LD spores in both the liquid of the water and airborne. You would have to flush your hose/piping lines with a large amount of fresh chlorinated water to kill these spores. Blowing out the lines of you RV with air leaves some water in the lines and LD would love to grow within these lines as they love warmth, darkness, and a little water. Your safest bet may be to add the anti-freeze, although I particularly don't like that method, or by adding some Clorox to the system. Figure about one cup of Clorox to a gallon of water. BUT--Clorox can/will cause certain types of plastic lines to deteriorate. I'm usually the one people call "different" and I keep my water aelectricity hooked up while the TT is parked at home. I keep the inside temp at 76 degrees during hot weather and 66 degrees during cooler weather. I go into the unit often and turn on every water faucet for a minute or two just for this purpose.
What you say about chlorine dissipating with time is true. However, checkmate99 is probably only talking about one day so that shouldn't cause a problem. A cup of bleach per gallon of water? That sounds like an awful lot. That is more than manufactures recommend to sanitize your fw tank. I use to shock my swimming pool when I had it and never used that much.

Jim
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Old 11-09-2015, 01:18 PM   #13
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Thanks for the replies. Sorry I have been really busy at work and have not had time to get back to this thread. My question was more along the lines of water not draining from plumbing not winterizing. I believe water gets trapped in pipes and along Thurman's post is what my concern is. I see no easy way to drain water system completely. Correct me if I am wrong but even if I blow out my pipes I still can have water in front of the water pump. That line in my TT runs uphill from the pump which I see can never drain unless I unhooked it. I am more inclined to think this is a design/warranty issue.
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Old 11-09-2015, 01:34 PM   #14
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Thanks for the replies. Sorry I have been really busy at work and have not had time to get back to this thread. My question was more along the lines of water not draining from plumbing not winterizing. I believe water gets trapped in pipes and along Thurman's post is what my concern is. I see no easy way to drain water system completely. Correct me if I am wrong but even if I blow out my pipes I still can have water in front of the water pump. That line in my TT runs uphill from the pump which I see can never drain unless I unhooked it. I am more inclined to think this is a design/warranty issue.
If you unhook the pump make sure it is the pressure side. Check valves I the pump will prevent anything from draining back.

Your best bet is an antifreeze adding system. Easy to install. Then add antifreeze and you will never have to worry. See the photo: It is just a 3 way valve and a short hose.

Jim
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Old 11-09-2015, 02:19 PM   #15
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I did add a antifreeze hose this year when I winterized it. My water pump is next to impossible to access so I thought I would only do it once. Now I am thinking that maybe I should add a new low point drain in front of the pump. Actually I really would like to re-plumb the whole thing. I hate those PEX fittings. I do the bleach before each trip to clean out the pipes. Cheaper than that pink stuff.
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Old 11-10-2015, 11:42 AM   #16
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I did add a antifreeze hose this year when I winterized it. My water pump is next to impossible to access so I thought I would only do it once. Now I am thinking that maybe I should add a new low point drain in front of the pump. Actually I really would like to re-plumb the whole thing. I hate those PEX fittings. I do the bleach before each trip to clean out the pipes. Cheaper than that pink stuff.
Do you have a Home Depot near you? You can get the pink antifreeze for under 5 a gallon plus tax. Three gallons should do most trailers. Don't forget to drain the hw tank first and use the bypass valves. Not a bad price, have seen it for 8 to 9 In cg.

Jim
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Old 11-10-2015, 12:30 PM   #17
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Do you have a Home Depot near you? You can get the pink antifreeze for under 5 a gallon plus tax.
It's at $2.75 per gallon at my local WM.

Tractor supply usually has it for around $3 as well.
Traveller RV & Multi-Purpose Antifreeze, 1 gal. - For Life Out Here
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Old 11-10-2015, 01:11 PM   #18
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It's at $2.75 per gallon at my local WM.

Tractor supply usually has it for around $3 as well.
Traveller RV & Multi-Purpose Antifreeze, 1 gal. - For Life Out Here
Thanks, good to know. I go past one about once a month. Going to have to stop and look around.

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Old 11-10-2015, 01:20 PM   #19
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I screw mine into my pressure regulator before attaching it to trailer. Can't be to safe.
A pressure regulator built for liquids will not work the same for air.
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Old 11-11-2015, 10:32 AM   #20
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Thanks for the replies. Sorry I have been really busy at work and have not had time to get back to this thread. My question was more along the lines of water not draining from plumbing not winterizing. I believe water gets trapped in pipes and along Thurman's post is what my concern is. I see no easy way to drain water system completely. Correct me if I am wrong but even if I blow out my pipes I still can have water in front of the water pump. That line in my TT runs uphill from the pump which I see can never drain unless I unhooked it. I am more inclined to think this is a design/warranty issue.
When I winterize, I drain all water, blow out the pipes, re-empty the filter canister, put antifreeze in all of the traps and holding tanks then take care of the pump. The pump is winterized by running antifreeze in through the winterizing pipe. I only use enough to put antifreeze in the pipe from the water pump to the filter canister. The filter canister is clear so it's easy to tell that there's antifreeze between the pump and it.

As an aside, I've read that PEX pipe is rated to withstand water freezing inside it. I've never tried to verify this and, even if the pipe withstands the pressure from Ice forming inside it, I'd be concerned that the inexpensive compression fittings used at the end of the pipes would give way under that pressure then leak the following season.

Phil
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