Electrical Problem 2018 Coachmen Chaparral 336 TSIK

rdv1978 · 05-15-2019, 11:57 AM

Last weekend we were hot with a lot of rain. We had a problem where our 30amp shore power failed. Here is the scenario of events:

Our Norcold refrigerator alarmed with a “No AC” along with continuous beeping. I checked our voltage monitor (plug in wall type) and it was bouncing all over the place. I went outside and re-cycled our power at the pedestal. Shortly after that, smoke appeared from under the cabinet where the inverter and heater is mounted.

I ran out and shut the power down to our 5th wheel and it stopped. I have contacted a mobile RV service to come check our trailer out for damage.

My question is if I was able to cut the power and the smoke stopped is it possible that I maybe there was no damage? Should I wait until the mobile tech comes out to try turning the power on?

I ordered a surge protector-30amp as we are 50amp with 30 amp pigtail. Currently, the refrigerator is running on propane.

At this time, I am not sure how long it will take for the service tech to come out. Is there anything that I can check to determine any damage?

**ES_FR** · 05-15-2019, 12:03 PM

rdv1978,

Thank you for being a part of the Coachmen family.

Please accept our sincerest apologies for any inconveniences that you have experienced with your new Chaparral. Your satisfaction is very important to us; accordingly, we invite you to contact Joe Schueneman in our Customer service department through the following personalized and direct link: Forest River RV Direct Service Contact - Forest River, Inc..

This direct link is provided for your convenience in order that we may resolve your concerns as quickly as possible. We will strive to respond to you within 24 hours of receiving your correspondence.

Respectfully,
Forest River

llr · 05-15-2019, 12:11 PM

I assume by heater you mean the furnace. If not ignore the text below

since the smoke was near the inverter and heater and stopped when shore power was removed it sounds like the inverter is bad as the heater would have still had power unless the batter was disconnected.

**Bama Rambler** · 05-15-2019, 03:47 PM

I think you mean converter not inverter. I assume that because you say that the fridge is running on propane and normally units with RV fridges don't have an inverter.

Having said that, the scenario you describe sounds like the service to or at the pedestal had issues and the voltage into your RV spiked. Take your volt meter and plug it into the pedestal and see if it's reading the correct voltage (120 ±10%) and if it's reading steady. If it is, you can turn the power back on, but I won't be surprised if at least the converter is fried.

I'd turn off all the breakers in the power panel and then turn the breaker in the pedestal on. Then go into the RV and turn the breakers on one at a time starting with the main. Just be ready to turn them back off quickly if something happens.

rdv1978 · 05-15-2019, 05:43 PM

Thanks Everyone:

I purchased a Progressive Industries EMS-PT30X. I wasn’t sure if I could use this as I was using a 50amp to 30amp pigtail.

The heater I am referring to is the propane heater that is installed I believe behind the outside control panel for your city water hookup, dump valves, etc. Inside the trailer, you can see the heater by pulling out the bottom drawer in the cabinets. Underneath that last drawer, the kick panel is missing creating the vent. This is where the smoke came out.

Forest River: We are in a permanent site in a campground. We do not have a tow vehicle to take it somewhere to be repaired. I would very much prefer to keep everything OEM (converter). I am not sure if that part can be sent to me and I can have our local authorized RV mobile tech guy install it.

I will be heading out to the trailer tomorrow to check things out. I guess I would know if I have no AC if the refrigerator won’t run?

I had contacted the CG to find out what exactly happened; however, I have had no response. Maybe I can get them to help me run the test with individually flipping on the breakers.

I really appreciate the feedback from you all!

**Flybob** · 05-15-2019, 06:24 PM

Usually when there is any amount of smoke, something is damaged if it involves electronic components. I agree that there was likely an issue with the pedestal power. Did you get a surge protector or an EMS? I would check with others at the park to determine if they saw any issues when your issue occurred. Voltage spikes or droops usually effect more than one site.

rdv1978 · 05-16-2019, 01:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ES_FR

rdv1978,

Thank you for being a part of the Coachmen family.

Please accept our sincerest apologies for any inconveniences that you have experienced with your new Chaparral. Your satisfaction is very important to us; accordingly, we invite you to contact Joe Schueneman in our Customer service department through the following personalized and direct link: Forest River RV Direct Service Contact - Forest River, Inc..

This direct link is provided for your convenience in order that we may resolve your concerns as quickly as possible. We will strive to respond to you within 24 hours of receiving your correspondence.

Respectfully,
Forest River

I tried the link that was provided; was able to enter my information; however, when I tried to send it, I got an error

rdv1978 · 05-16-2019, 01:58 PM

I was at the trailer today; CG found faulty breaker and replaced. Turned power on at pedestal and no smoke. Turned on breakers at converter one by one and still no smoke.

Anything 12V that I tried would not turn on. I am presuming that means my converter got fried.

I thought the Norcold gas/electric refrigerator would have come on since it runs off AC, but it didn’t.

**Flybob** · 05-16-2019, 02:10 PM

The control board for the fridge works on 12VDC. No 12V no fridge. You can have the converter checked, but replacing it is probably a lower cost option. That said if there was an issue with campground service their insurance may help cover it.

**Bama Rambler** · 05-16-2019, 02:39 PM

Before you give up check all the 12 volt fuses, even the ones near the battery.
Is your battery dead? If it is, either charge it or replace it and see what all works then.

rdv1978 · 05-25-2019, 09:30 AM

Update: problem resolved

12V converter was fried. Luckily, none of the fuses were popped which, according to the mobile RV guy, said most likely that we nothing else got damaged. We checked everything and it’s all working ok.

The wiring is all above ground at our CG and the problem was at one of the connections the wire was corroded. Once that was fixed, our electric is working ok. Since this was a fault of the CG should they be responsible? Unfortunately, our contract states that they (CG) are not responsible for any damages.

I have purchased a 50amp Progressive Industries Surge Protector. Lesson learned. It was expensive; however, probably much cheaper than if I had sustained damage to all my appliances.

Thanks even for all your feedback!

rracer5 · 05-25-2019, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rdv1978

Update: problem resolved

12V converter was fried. Luckily, none of the fuses were popped which, according to the mobile RV guy, said most likely that we nothing else got damaged. We checked everything and it’s all working ok.

The wiring is all above ground at our CG and the problem was at one of the connections the wire was corroded. Once that was fixed, our electric is working ok. Since this was a fault of the CG should they be responsible? Unfortunately, our contract states that they (CG) are not responsible for any damages.

I have purchased a 50amp Progressive Industries Surge Protector. Lesson learned. It was expensive; however, probably much cheaper than if I had sustained damage to all my appliances.

Thanks even for all your feedback!

Sorry for your troubles & glad you got everything up & running again. I am also happy to see you finally got a 50 amp. protector, which is what you should have since your RV is 50 amp. This way, if the CG ever decides to upgrade its' electric service (and it sounds like it needs it), you won't have to invest in another surge protector. For now, just use your 30 amp male to 50 amp female adapter to plug your new surge protector into and you'll be protected from another expensive catastrophy.

myredracer · 05-25-2019, 02:49 PM

Converters do occasionally fail all by themselves, esp. if a WFCO. Not sure you can pin it down to being the CGs fault that caused a converter failure. I'd just replace it with a better quality converter and fuggedaboutit.

Our WFCO fried and died in it's 3rd season. There was a smell of melting plastic and it tripped the breaker. It also killed the battery and it was no longer useable. May have been overcharging for some time, don't know. Of course, this happened while away on a long road trip. We upgraded to a PD converter from bestconverter.com and got an AGM battery instead.

rdv1978 · 06-10-2019, 09:34 AM

Just curious for those who may have had a similar issue with damage done to your trailer from a power surge and/or any other electrical problem. This would have been due to a problem created by the CG electrical.

Our cost to have our trailer checked and fixed was not cheap.

I was just curious to see if the CG had compensated you for the cost incurred to repair.

I know in most CG rules that there is a clause for them not being responsible for any damages

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