Freedom Express 248RBS

[Hautean1976]

My wife and I have are purchasing a 2015 Freedom Express 248 RBS
We will be using a 2018 Chevy Silverado crew cab 4x4 with a 5.3 and 3.42 rear end as our tow vehicle.
The trailer is in immaculate condition, and everything works perfectly.
I will bring it home next weekend.
Is there anything in particular I need to be aware of with this model?
Also, it has the dual post dinette table. We'd like to replace that with a table similar to the folding one in the new model, any suggestions?

Thank you!

[dward51]

Check the frame for cracks. Also look for cracks in the paint where it's starting to rust as the frame can crack there later (sand and paint over now to help prevent).

We recently bought a 2015 FE 246RKS and found serious frame cracking issues. Lippert fixed them, but I had not previously thought about crawling around under the trailer sides to inspect for cracks. I will do so yearly now. Ours was also immaculate in all other aspects. I had no idea about the cracks until well after we bought it. Not saying FE is a bad line, just that it "can" happen with any light weight trailer under the right conditions. One of the places they seem to trim weight is in the frame. We had a few places that the paint had cracked with frame flexing and road water (salt from winter roads?) crept in and as it rusted, the frame tended to crack in those areas later. There were also some areas that were clearly stress cracks, but several areas where the paint cracked and rust was forming under the crack.

[FRRVR]

Good suggestions. Be sure to check the roof seams also. Reseal the seams if not done.

[Flybob]

A few mods I made to mine.
1. Remove the small panel on the front of the shower floor. Add 3-4 supports at various locations on the floor. I used 5" 2X6 pieces of wood cut to fit the spacing, This reinforces the flexible floor and helps prevent leaks.
2. Remove the battery from the battery box and drill a few holes in the bottom to allow water to drain. Mark the terminals before you disconnect the battery.

3. Remove the two upper vents in the inside wall behind the outside fridge. Glue small pieces of window screen over the holes cut in the wall and replace the vents. The vents can be removed by popping out the rotating section at the center point. This will keep insects out when outside kitchen door open.



Great TT enjoy.

[Hautean1976]

Thank each of you for your input. We have a small list of upgrades we plan to do. These include, a better fan in the bathroom, MorRyde steps and tool box, bed lift supports and of course a new mattress.
Thanks again!
Kirt

[Hautean1976]

Well, it looks like this is the week we get our trailer. we have been waiting on the title to come from the bank and it arrived Friday.
The wife and I are excited to get it home and loaded for a maiden voyage, probably just a quick weekend trip to a nearby state park.
I have learned a lot about travel trailers by reading everyone's posts, comment and questions. I believe these forums are the best to learn how to shop for any RV.
We are proud to become members of the Coachmen family!

2018 Silverado 1500 High Country CC 4x4 5.3
2015 Freedom Express 248RBS
Day Camped 0, Goal, as many as possible

[dward51]

Try at least an overnight camping "dry run" at your house. Treat it like you are at a campground and if it's not in the trailer, you don't have it. Make notes and your first field camping trip will go much smoother. I still forget to put some items in the trailer every now and then.

You could probably run off a 12ga extension cord and a 30 amp adapter plug. It should pretty much run everything except the AC (you will be limited to 15 to 20amps total), but it gives you lights, microwave, fridge, etc... for that trial run at the house. Do the complete setup and breakdown including leveling the unit.

[Hautean1976]

Thank you for the suggestion. I have a 30 amp plug on my shop for the trailer,(from our previous trailer). We do plan to do a full set up and tear down, since this is our first rig with a power slide out, (manual before).
I need to buy a surge protector, my thought is to buy a 50 amp, then use plug adapter. I can feel the wife wanting bigger trailer in the future, so why by two?
Is there any reason not to?
Thanks again

[dward51]

Originally Posted by Hautean1976

Thank you for the suggestion. I have a 30 amp plug on my shop for the trailer,(from our previous trailer). We do plan to do a full set up and tear down, since this is our first rig with a power slide out, (manual before).
I need to buy a surge protector, my thought is to buy a 50 amp, then use plug adapter. I can feel the wife wanting bigger trailer in the future, so why by two?
Is there any reason not to?
Thanks again

If you wanted to go that route, I would look at the 50 amp Progressive Dynamics hard wired model. You should be able to use one leg of the unit as that is what an adapter does anyway. I like hardwired as you can't forget it (at the house or at the last RV park you left a hour ago), and it can't grow legs while your are away from the camper in a park. Plus it's always protecting your trailer on the road or at the house or even on a extension cord with a 15amp adapter.

If you can just curl up the excess 10gauge wire and add new wire from the output side to the converter panel, you can remove it and use it in the bigger trailer later on leaving the current trailer with a stock setup. I have plenty of room right behind my converter and that's what I'm doing with the existing 120v wire (rolling up excess instead of cutting so I can pull the PD unit if I sell the trailer and decide to keep it). But for me, I'm only talking about 12" of wire to coil up. It depends on how easy your area would be to get to and how handy you are with DIY stuff like this.

[Hautean1976]

We got our trailer home today! Our 25 mile trip home was uneventful, thankfully! It came with an Equalizer hitch set up, may need a little adjustment to fine tune everything. They used a Tundra, I have Siverado, about an inch and quarter difference in the bottom of receiver to the ground, mine being higher.
When we looked the trailer, twice, both times, it was dusk. Today in the sun, I could see small dimples and a few ripples in the rubber roof. There are no obvious leaks in the trailer, and the previous owner stated it had been thru one hail storm here in DFW.
My question is , are these dimples likely from the hail? My intentions are to have it looked at by professional, but I have come to value the experience of you in this group.
Other then that, everything worked as it should, no cracks in frame that I could see today. Only a few spots of minor surface rust, a piece of 100 grit and epoxy primer will fix that.
Any advice is always welcome
Kirt

2018 Silverado High Country CC 4x4, 5.3, 3.42
2015 Freedom Express 248 RBS
Eqaulizer wdh

[dward51]

1) I would take a inexpensive outlet tester from HD/Lowes and check all the 120v outlets on the trailer to make sure they are wired correctly (I'm talking about the plug in tester with 3 LED lights - usually under $10). It's not unheard of for an occasional outlet to be wired wrong.

2) Test the GFCI(s) by pushing the "test" button to make sure they trip correctly and will reset.

3) Make sure you have some extra fuses for the 12v panel "just in case".

4) Sanitize the fresh water tank and lines, no matter what the prior owner said about it being done a month ago, etc...

5) Check/Look at plumbing in as many hidden places and all connections you can find for leaks with the trailer on city water and on the water pump (not at the same time of course)

6) While looking at the roof, double check the sealant on all the edges and vents, etc... If it is looking like it needs attention, pull and replace with new (in a pinch you can overcoat with Dicor Lap Seal or Eternabond tape, but pulling and new Lap Seal is the preferred method)

7) Check all the outside body trim screws for any loose screws or small cracks or places where the sealant is starting to show signs of age. Better to fix before it lets water in.

8) Same for the Awning to trailer hardware, check the sealant and screws.

9) After you prime that surface rust on the frame, hit it with some satin finish black rust-o-leum. It usually blends better with the factory paint/powdercoat than a gloss paint does. Might as well touch up any rust on the tongue/hitch area as well.

10) Test the propane appliances. Turn on the LP and using some soapy water check the connections for leaks. Then light the appliance at the far end of the LP line run first. That way you have purged as much air out of the LP line as possible. It may take a moment to get that appliance to light and stay lit due to air in the line (very common from storage). The other appliances that are closer to the tanks should pretty much fire right up after that, but there may be a little air in their branch lines as well. For me the hot water heater is the end of the LP line and the stove/range is next. I usually fire up the range top as I can hold a grill lighter on a burner for however long it takes to purge the air and see the results easily. Then I fire up the water heater (make sure it has water in it!!!!)

11) Look at the underbelly material (assuming it is enclosed). If there are any holes or places the belly material has pulled down a little, reseal them. You want to keep critters and bugs/ants out and keep heat in (in late fall/early winter camping).

12) while looking at the underbelly, look at your LP lines under the trailer. Odds are they are rubber and can be nicked by road debris or knawed by mice. Not super common, but a quick look and feel by running your hand over only takes a couple of seconds.

13) Inspect the seal around your windows. Also open the windows. They may be stuck to the weatherstripping somewhat. If they are use a plastic paint scraper to gently wiggle them from the weatherstripping. I would then use a RV rubber seal conditioner on the weatherstripping (usually a rubber like type of seal).

14) Wash & wax the trailer exterior. It will be easier to keep clean if waxed.

15) Don't forget to put a little grease on the hitch ball and the anti-sway bars (and where needed for your specific hitch setup).

16) Pull and inspect the wheel bearings (inner and outer), relube and reinstall the bearing if no problems found. Replace the bearing and race as a pair if there is a problem. Use a good quality bearing like a Timken. Does not matter if the prior owner gave you a receipt that said the bearings were lubed last week, I would pull and inspect, relube myself.

17) Inspect the tires. Look at the date codes on the sidewall. If tires are more than about 4 years old, consider replacing soon. Any signs of slight cracking of the rubber also means replacement even if the tread looks like it came from the factory yesterday.

18) If you have 4 Goodyear Marathon tires, consider replacing them with 4 Goodyear Endurance tires. The Marathons (often referred to as China Bombs) are load range C. In 205/75R14 size, they just barely can handle the rated axle rating of tandem 3,500lb axles (which is probably why the blow so often). The Endurance are load range D (better) and have a higher weight capacity per tire. You can also bump it up to an even beefier Endurance and still stay with a 14" rim. The 15" Endurance will get you into load range E, but you are also buying new rims to go to a 15" (and make sure you have clearance between the axles/tires and above as 15" tires are a little bigger in overall diameter as well). Having a greater weight cushion in the tire rating vs the weight of the loaded trailer will go a long long way towards not blowing out tires.

19) Always keep your tires at the sidewall rated "cold inflation" number. Usually 50 or 65 psi, but is higher for some D & E tires. It will increase as the tires are driven on from the road friction, but remember that is their "cold inflation" number so if you check and inflate them when the tires are cold, you are fine with the increase from road friction. Check pressure before moving the trailer every time. A tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) is even better.

20) This one is a biggie. Keep all the manuals that came with your trailer. I would also go online and download the PDF versions from the manufacturer's website (and any extra PDF's on that part they may have). A PDF may be online today and gone 6 months from now after new models come out. Even if you can't make heads or tails out of the schematic, drawings, etc... someone else might be able to help you with that later.


If you are not comfortable doing this sort of DIY work, find a good and RELIABLE RV shop or local RV repairman. Dealerships are generally swamped with customers who bought their rigs from the dealer and other units can get pushed further down the priority list. Also this time of year it seems everyone is in a rush to get their rigs on the road so dealers are extra busy. The more you can do yourself, that's great (youtube videos and forum posts are your friend). But not everyone is comfortable doing all (and some, any) of this sort of stuff. There is no shame in paying someone else, as long as you have a good RELIABLE person/shop do the work. One more word about Youtube videos. I would find a couple of videos on what you are wanting to do. Not every person who makes a youtube video has a clue about what they are demonstrating. You can usally spot those right off, but if you watch a couple on the same subject, and they are agreeing on what to do, it's probably right.

I'm sure I forgot a few things to check in general, but I'll shut up and let some of the others chime in.

[glsimms]

Originally Posted by dward51

1) I would take a inexpensive outlet tester from HD/Lowes and check all the 120v outlets on the trailer to make sure they are wired correctly (I'm talking about the plug in tester with 3 LED lights - usually under $10). It's not unheard of for an occasional outlet to be wired wrong.

2) Test the GFCI(s) by pushing the "test" button to make sure they trip correctly and will reset.

3) Make sure you have some extra fuses for the 12v panel "just in case".

4) Sanitize the fresh water tank and lines, no matter what the prior owner said about it being done a month ago, etc...

5) Check/Look at plumbing in as many hidden places and all connections you can find for leaks with the trailer on city water and on the water pump (not at the same time of course)

6) While looking at the roof, double check the sealant on all the edges and vents, etc... If it is looking like it needs attention, pull and replace with new (in a pinch you can overcoat with Dicor Lap Seal or Eternabond tape, but pulling and new Lap Seal is the preferred method)

7) Check all the outside body trim screws for any loose screws or small cracks or places where the sealant is starting to show signs of age. Better to fix before it lets water in.

8) Same for the Awning to trailer hardware, check the sealant and screws.

9) After you prime that surface rust on the frame, hit it with some satin finish black rust-o-leum. It usually blends better with the factory paint/powdercoat than a gloss paint does. Might as well touch up any rust on the tongue/hitch area as well.

10) Test the propane appliances. Turn on the LP and using some soapy water check the connections for leaks. Then light the appliance at the far end of the LP line run first. That way you have purged as much air out of the LP line as possible. It may take a moment to get that appliance to light and stay lit due to air in the line (very common from storage). The other appliances that are closer to the tanks should pretty much fire right up after that, but there may be a little air in their branch lines as well. For me the hot water heater is the end of the LP line and the stove/range is next. I usually fire up the range top as I can hold a grill lighter on a burner for however long it takes to purge the air and see the results easily. Then I fire up the water heater (make sure it has water in it!!!!)

11) Look at the underbelly material (assuming it is enclosed). If there are any holes or places the belly material has pulled down a little, reseal them. You want to keep critters and bugs/ants out and keep heat in (in late fall/early winter camping).

12) while looking at the underbelly, look at your LP lines under the trailer. Odds are they are rubber and can be nicked by road debris or knawed by mice. Not super common, but a quick look and feel by running your hand over only takes a couple of seconds.

13) Inspect the seal around your windows. Also open the windows. They may be stuck to the weatherstripping somewhat. If they are use a plastic paint scraper to gently wiggle them from the weatherstripping. I would then use a RV rubber seal conditioner on the weatherstripping (usually a rubber like type of seal).

14) Wash & wax the trailer exterior. It will be easier to keep clean if waxed.

15) Don't forget to put a little grease on the hitch ball and the anti-sway bars (and where needed for your specific hitch setup).

16) Pull and inspect the wheel bearings (inner and outer), relube and reinstall the bearing if no problems found. Replace the bearing and race as a pair if there is a problem. Use a good quality bearing like a Timken. Does not matter if the prior owner gave you a receipt that said the bearings were lubed last week, I would pull and inspect, relube myself.

17) Inspect the tires. Look at the date codes on the sidewall. If tires are more than about 4 years old, consider replacing soon. Any signs of slight cracking of the rubber also means replacement even if the tread looks like it came from the factory yesterday.

18) If you have 4 Goodyear Marathon tires, consider replacing them with 4 Goodyear Endurance tires. The Marathons (often referred to as China Bombs) are load range C. In 205/75R14 size, they just barely can handle the rated axle rating of tandem 3,500lb axles (which is probably why the blow so often). The Endurance are load range D (better) and have a higher weight capacity per tire. You can also bump it up to an even beefier Endurance and still stay with a 14" rim. The 15" Endurance will get you into load range E, but you are also buying new rims to go to a 15" (and make sure you have clearance between the axles/tires and above as 15" tires are a little bigger in overall diameter as well). Having a greater weight cushion in the tire rating vs the weight of the loaded trailer will go a long long way towards not blowing out tires.

19) Always keep your tires at the sidewall rated "cold inflation" number. Usually 50 or 65 psi, but is higher for some D & E tires. It will increase as the tires are driven on from the road friction, but remember that is their "cold inflation" number so if you check and inflate them when the tires are cold, you are fine with the increase from road friction. Check pressure before moving the trailer every time. A tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) is even better.

20) This one is a biggie. Keep all the manuals that came with your trailer. I would also go online and download the PDF versions from the manufacturer's website (and any extra PDF's on that part they may have). A PDF may be online today and gone 6 months from now after new models come out. Even if you can't make heads or tails out of the schematic, drawings, etc... someone else might be able to help you with that later.


If you are not comfortable doing this sort of DIY work, find a good and RELIABLE RV shop or local RV repairman. Dealerships are generally swamped with customers who bought their rigs from the dealer and other units can get pushed further down the priority list. Also this time of year it seems everyone is in a rush to get their rigs on the road so dealers are extra busy. The more you can do yourself, that's great (youtube videos and forum posts are your friend). But not everyone is comfortable doing all (and some, any) of this sort of stuff. There is no shame in paying someone else, as long as you have a good RELIABLE person/shop do the work. One more word about Youtube videos. I would find a couple of videos on what you are wanting to do. Not every person who makes a youtube video has a clue about what they are demonstrating. You can usally spot those right off, but if you watch a couple on the same subject, and they are agreeing on what to do, it's probably right.

I'm sure I forgot a few things to check in general, but I'll shut up and let some of the others chime in.

Dayummm……. Now I know why dealers charge for a PDI!!!!

[dward51]

Originally Posted by glsimms

Dayummm……. Now I know why dealers charge for a PDI!!!!

Most of that only takes a few seconds per step. It's all stuff any trailer owner should be aware of and consider as part of a periodic check. Once you have been through the list a time or two, it's almost 2nd nature.

[Hautean1976]

Well we have cleaned and loaded the trailer for a weekend trip next week. I have installed a battery disconnect switch, and started the process of installing a bed hatch lift kit. Although this looks fairly simple, and being handy enough to be dangerous, this task has been a challenge. Basic install went great, but fine tuning the hatch height and pressure has been a challenge.
If anyone has any tips, they are most appreciated!
Kirt


2018 Silverado 1200 High Country CC 4x4 5.3 3.42
2015 Freedom Express 248RBS

[Hautean1976]

Good afternoon, I am having trouble the entry door latch and deadbolt.
I have moved the strike plate in and out, still can't get the dead bolt to latch off the key, and have to muscle it inside. Door handle will seem latched and then, its not.
what may I be missing, or is there a trick don't know.
Many thanks!

[Hautean1976]

We made our first trip this weekend in the trailer.
We had no real issues, except the ongoing struggle with the strike plate and the door. Finally removed the plate so we could lock the door from the inside.
An ongoing research project to fix.
Survived a good size thunderstorm with no water leaks evident, so it looks like all is well there.


2015 Coachmen Freedom Express 248RBS
2018 Silverado High Country, 5.3l. 3.42
EqualizerWDH
Nights camped 2

[dward51]

Is the bolt hitting the strike plate and not engaging with the frame? Or is it just stiff? If it's just stiff, a good blast of WD40 or similar should help. If it's hanging on the face of the strike plate, can you unscrew and flip it and see if that helps? Plan "B" might be to file the plate opening a little. Or am I not understanding the issue?

[Hautean1976]

Yes we applied some lubricant to dead bolt and hatch assembly. It would appear the door and strike plate are slightly off. I applied some line chalk to the dead bolt and door latch to see where they hit the plate. The door will not fully engage the plate unless pulled or pushed to the limit.
I an going to try and the thin the actual face of the plate with a grinding wheel on my Dremel. Hoping this will gain me a little tolerance, that I currently don"t have.
Kirt




2018 Chevy High Country
2015 Freedom Express 248RBS

[Flybob]

I had same issue. I used a Dremel tool to adjust the size of the hole in the strike place.

[Hautean1976]

Has anyone replaced the sleeper sofa? We have no intention of using it for a bed.
Curious how difficult it maybe.
Thanks


Kirt