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Old 03-02-2019, 11:26 AM   #61
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That's pretty normal to have a frame ground for most everything. I didn't change that when I did my wiring. The exception is a heavy hitter like my 2000W inverter. It gets 4/0 cables to my bus bar connected to my shunt and then to the batteries.


This is the junction box and cable I bought for my boat trailer. Is it the one you are going to get?


https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


As far as those breakers go, I was able to not have to use one of them.You probably know why there are two but just in case...one is for the connection to the tow vehicle and one sends power back to your power center.
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Old 03-02-2019, 02:23 PM   #62
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Yep, that is the junction box I'm looking at. I have a 8' 7-way cable/plug in the basement so I just need the box which runs $9 on Amazon.

I'm also seriously thinking about going ahead and just converting to disc brakes. My thinking is since I'm towing with a 1/2 ton truck and the max rating of this trailer is right getting close to the max for the truck, braking would be my biggest issue with this trailer. Yeah, it's not cheap, but it is an investment. Future maintenance would be easier and the increased braking safety is a big reason. $1,500 for a DIY install is a heck of a lot less than a new truck which even a later model used one will run $55k for diesel (and if I "have" to buy a new truck, might as well go SRW 1 ton diesel). I may upgrade the rims and tires to 15" load range E Endurance. Current tires are 2 205/75R14 Marathons and 2 205/75R14 Endurance which are load range C/D respectively (that is what was on the trailer when I bought it). I can move the rims and tires to my Skeeter boat trailer as it needs new tires to replace the aging Marathons anyway. So I get 2 jobs done with one purchase and increase my load safety with the trailer tires (I do not like the mix of C & D tires - right now the D are on the entry side and the C are on the curb side).

I've looked at a few metal tongue boxes, but I'm thinking about making a plywood box and sealing it with epoxy and fiberglass coating like making a box for a boat. I could then paint with Awlgrip and it would be "marine grade" as far as UV exposure and resistance to battery acid. Then I could design it for a 2 battery system, have a side compartment for the brake actuator, and another side compartment for the electrical distribution and breaker area. This gets all of these out of the weather. If I coat with epoxy and fiberglass I could use a 1/4" plywood core and keep the weight down. Again I'm thinking about longevity and future maintenance as if I go any larger in the trailer, I will need a new truck and I have no where to store it at the house. So we are keeping this one a while and it's easier to do all this work up front while the underbelly is off and be done with it.

What do you think?
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Old 03-02-2019, 03:40 PM   #63
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If you are going disc brakes, delay installing your chloroplast for now since you need to run brake lines.
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Old 03-02-2019, 03:51 PM   #64
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Yes, that is part of why I have not done it. I want to do all of this "once". So I need to finalize the complete upgrade plan before putting the underbelly back on (plus it keeps raining). Wiring is also an underbelly off upgrade especially if I'm upping the gauge of the primary wire from the battery to the WFCO in the back of the trailer.

Also all of the DIY disc brake installs I've seen run the hydraulic lines outside the coroplast like the LP lines. Any reason not to go this route also?

If I'm switching to disc brakes, that drives the way I do the wiring as I'm also going to have to install the actuator somewhere. Hence the custom made tongue box for batteries, actuator and power distribution "head end". So tongue box and wiring in prep for EoH may be next priority for order of reassembly.

I'm going out in a few to try and figure out that wiring at the tongue to see what else i need to deal with and include it in the overall plan. I'll probably need to decompress after another "WTH" moment with the wiring once I open that junction box.
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Old 03-02-2019, 05:00 PM   #65
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You can do that. Just make sure you use stainless steel lines or rubber lines. I replaced the original steel lines on my trailer with rubber and they work fine.

When you select your brand of brakes, I prefer Kodiak. Just don'y but TieDown. They are horrible.
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Old 03-02-2019, 06:26 PM   #66
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I'm looking at Kodiak and a Hydrastar actuator. The folks at e-trailer told me the Hydrastar is a much better unit than the Dexter. I did not ask about the Titan though. I'm looking at stainless main lines with rubber to the Hydrastar and each caliper assembly.

Any thoughts on the Hydrastar 1600psi unit? I know some people mount them on the tongue of their boat trailer exposed to the elements so it may not "need" an enclosure, but I'm thinking an enclosure is a good idea.

I spent this afternoon measuring the tongue battery area and making a drawing of the pin out of that tongue electrical mess to figure out what my box options are. There is only 14" from the bow of the front cap to the back of the LP cover. That is less than I thought, but enough to work with. I'm wondering if the easy way out might be to either buy a good locking metal battery box wide enough for 2 group 31's and the Hydrastar and mount a 7-way terminal box and another weatherproof box on the frame (like the existing wiring boxes). I would move the breakers inside the other weatherproof box, etc...

I'm going to spend some time tonight going over my pin out with the Fluke 177 notes to figure out their wiring. One thing I did notice is it appears the positive line goes to the tongue jack directly from the battery (although via some terminal connection) and there is no external breaker or fuse. That was surprising to me and not what I expected. I presume the Lippert tongue jack has internal fusing?

But after some of the stuff I saw today, nothing is going to surprise me inside the unseen parts of a travel trailer again. More to come on that later.

At some point I'm going to have to break some of these repair & upgrade projects into their own threads. Otherwise this one will become more unmanageable as we end up jumping around on topics. This is about to go way beyond the frame repair which is basically done. I think more targeted threads would benefit others in a search in the future as well. If I do, I will eventually build an index thread with short descriptions and links to the individual components.
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Old 03-02-2019, 06:56 PM   #67
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My Titan is out in the open and I have seen the Hydrastar out there as well. Personally, I would mount it inside too just because there is always a chance for water to somehow work its way pass the cap gasket after a few years when the gasket gets deteriorated from the sun. I usually cover mine while it is stored in the winter. Of all the years I decided not to do that, this happens to be our very rainy year.

The Hydrastar is used on a lot of boat trailers from the factory so I am sure its a good unit. I can't remember being able to get it back when I bought mine.

My suggestion no matter which one you buy...change the brake fluid every two years. Any moisture that gets into these units through the brake fluid will seize the pump. Common issue. Fortunately, it's super easy to do.
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