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Old 11-21-2014, 08:10 PM   #21
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The 282 BHDSLE arrived, and I managed to get the pro pride hitch on without any difficulty. This means we are ready to take our maiden voyage. The PDI process only identified a couple of very minor cosmetic issues but on the whole, the trailer looks to be very well built and, although I haven't tested the AC or microwave, everything appears to be functioning just fine. The features on this thing are outstanding in value, and the fit/finish is better than I expected. We are doing a short trip to a nearby campground for the maiden voyage so that we can figure out the trailer, sort out what we need to get in terms of comfort items, and to get the kids excited. I will post again after the first trip!

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Old 11-22-2014, 07:10 PM   #22
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Wow! Nice one!!
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Old 11-25-2014, 05:41 PM   #23
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Sorry for the long post, but since we get sparse posts for this model, I'm making up for lost time!

The maiden voyage went very well and the hitch performed flawlessly. The trailer was very tame during the drive to the campsite (no winds, mild traffic conditions). Our camp site was nearly perfectly level and made setup a breeze. The electric stabilizers did a very good job of keep the trailer stable, but I did use x-chocks as well, so hard to tell if they contributed or not. An experiment for another trip, I guess.

The challenges were in figuring out how to get the water heater to work. I received the trailer already winterized, and I had to flush the system, but I wasn't aware of the valves that direct flow to isolate the water heater. I had to find the access (under the bottom bunk, you can lift up a plywood support) and open top and bottom valves, keeping the middle valve closed. After about 10 minutes, I had nice, hot water flowing from the 6 Gal DSI water heater. I was on shore power, so we did electric only. I probably should have tested the gas portion, but yet another experiment for another trip!

Fridge, A/C, microwave, stove, oven, worked flawlessly, but the furnace vent in the master bedroom is weak and very little heat comes out. There is flow, but it is weak. Don't know why the heat dissipates before getting to this vent. I think I need to have it looked at. The furnace does a superb job of heating the rest of the trailer/bathroom though. The "fireplace" is ideal when hooked up to shore power, and I worked out a system to have the fireplace space heater function during the evening until about 5 AM (you can set the heater to operate automatically via thermostat and set it for x number of hours up to 8 hours). I set the temp on the thermostat to higher than the one on the furnace, so the furnace never came on while the fireplace heater was working. When the fireplace heater timed out at 5AM, the furnace would take over, heating the coach and warming the bathroom up nicely for the early morning risers. Worked so well, I want to make it my routine. Saves a lot on propane too, since most of the heating is done by the electric space heater in the fireplace.

As we emptied the tanks, I discovered the black tank vacuum breaker valve issue. It remained closed and still remains so. I hooked up the hose to the flush port, but as the hose pressurized, there was no flow into the tank whatsoever. Coachmen gives easy access to the valve via the bottom bunk with a panel on the wall that is closed with a couple of philips screws. I had to order a replacement vacuum breaker valve, and based on recommendations, went with the brass fitting for durability and to prevent valve failure. I'll report back on the fix when it is done.

TV is permanently mounted to the bracket, making it difficult to add any peripherals such as a game machine, or wifi video (Apple TV, Chromecast, Fire TV, Roku...) unless you remove the rear panel using square torx bits.

I plan on replacing this with a swing mount so the TV can be moved and swiveled if needed.

Return trip was a bit hairy, as Santa Ana Winds kicked up to about 15 mph with 45-50 mph gusts. The pro pride hitch worked well to prevent sway, but it's impossible to have a white knuckle moment when you get a 40 mph side gust that just moves you AND the trailer simultaneously. Overall, the Yukon XL handled the load well, and stayed pretty stable, all things considered.

We've generated a great list of things to do to the trailer and items to acquire. We're excited to hear any tips or tricks you have.

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Old 11-25-2014, 07:17 PM   #24
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Hi, I just purchased the 282 BHDS last month and the only complaint I have is that the master bedroom furnace vent seems to blow cool air. I'll have to have a dealer look at it. There is pressure, weaker than the other vents, but it definitely blows cool air and not hot air like the others.
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Old 11-25-2014, 07:49 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikefradette View Post
Hi, I just purchased the 282 BHDS last month and the only complaint I have is that the master bedroom furnace vent seems to blow cool air. I'll have to have a dealer look at it. There is pressure, weaker than the other vents, but it definitely blows cool air and not hot air like the others.
That is exactly what I noticed. Not sure how to address the issue, though, other than to have it looked at.
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Old 11-25-2014, 08:03 PM   #26
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We have a freedom express 322RLDS with a similar problem getting heat to the bedroom. We found the duct was crushed by the factory when they routed it over a support beam then lowered a floor panel onto it. The problem was plainly visible when we peeked underneath the underbelly covering. We re-routed and spliced and it works fine now.
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Old 11-25-2014, 08:26 PM   #27
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That sounds like a more involved repair, or was it fairly easy to re-route and splice?
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Old 11-25-2014, 08:40 PM   #28
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It was surprisingly simple. Just like running a clothes dryer duct. First we removed some screws from the underbelly to give us room. Then we got some aluminum tape and a piece of aluminum ducting for a splice. We cut the old duct at the point it was crushed, and slid the ends over the new piece of ducting and secured it with the tape. To re-route, all we did was run it UNDER the support beam (instead over between the floor and beam as the factory had done). We secured the new duct with zip ties attached to the support beam. Then re-attached the underbelly. Once we procured the materials, it took about 20 mins.
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Old 11-25-2014, 09:04 PM   #29
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Pictures are worth 1000 words
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Old 11-25-2014, 09:58 PM   #30
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Sorry, I re-secured the underbelly, which covers the duct, and I don't want to undo the repair for purposes of illustration.
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