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Old 03-25-2015, 12:35 PM   #61
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I used the heavy cylinder kit from camping world. It was for full size queen/king mattresses. Here is the link. Heavy Bedlift Kit - Hatchlift 120-150 - Bed Pads & Mattresses - Camping World I bought this one because I am going to upgrade to a better mattress and wanted to be sure I had enough lift power. The only problem I encountered was when I followed the directions and mounted the lower bracket at 14" there was way to much lift for the cheap factory mattress. It would spring open on its own. The fix is that you move the lower bracket farther towards the back. You can see this in the picture I posted earlier. I had already glued and screwed the wood block in place so I didn't move that back, but you can see the bracket is right at the back edge. In the future when I get another mattress I may have to move it forward again, but for now it works great!
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Old 03-25-2015, 12:39 PM   #62
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spatterso911,

I added a battery powered LED hockey puck light to the storage compartment. It is touch activated. I want to see how that works. If it is not sufficient then I will add a hard wired one.
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Old 03-25-2015, 03:26 PM   #63
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spatterso911,

I added a battery powered LED hockey puck light to the storage compartment. It is touch activated. I want to see how that works. If it is not sufficient then I will add a hard wired one.
Another option, if you want to stay battery powered, is to use a motion sensing LED under counter light so that it would activate automatically once opened, or a set of remote controlled LED pucks where you can turn all 3 on at once. Costco and Sam's Club carry both kinds very reasonably.

I'd really like to have a 12V light wired to a pressure/contact switch on under bed storage box myself but I'm a little concerned that if there was not enough pressure on the bed it might activate the light and drain the battery.
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Old 04-04-2015, 10:57 AM   #64
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Anyone added a new recessed light in the shower yet? It is very dark in there with just the light on over the sink. I tried a LED battery light, but it didn't help much. I now ordered a recessed LED to match the rest of the ceing lights in the camper from camping world. I pulled the trim cover from the roof vent and it looks like there is a space to fish wires from the other ceilng light to the shower between the roof truss. I am going to wire them together so they both come on with the wall switch. The light will be here next week. Just wondering if anyone had an experience doing this.
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Old 04-04-2015, 01:51 PM   #65
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spatterso911,

I added a battery powered LED hockey puck light to the storage compartment. It is touch activated. I want to see how that works. If it is not sufficient then I will add a hard wired one.

I picked up a couple of battery operated motion detector lights from Costco months ago. I think they will be perfect in that space and should provide ample light. They are LED so I shouldn't have to change batteries too often.
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Old 04-04-2015, 01:56 PM   #66
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How much time are people getting before you find out the battery is dead while the trailer is parked in storage? I'm averaging about 10 days before dead battery. I will have to wire in a battery cutoff switch. I am still using the interstate 12V the trailer came with.
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Old 04-06-2015, 09:18 PM   #67
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Here are pictures of the latest upgrades/modifications to the trailer. Included are pictures of the gas struts for the master bed, LED lighting I installed in the storage under the bunks, and I switched out the TV mount to one that swivels and added an Apple TV. All mods working great!
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Old 04-07-2015, 06:08 PM   #68
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Today I made a corian sink cover to replace the cheap plastic one that came with it
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Old 04-16-2015, 03:05 PM   #69
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Completed the last few mods to the camper today. They were to add a new recessed light in the shower, add a half shelf to the bedroom closet, and add a shelf above the sink in the overhead cabinet. Also flushed and sanitized the fresh water tank. Leaving for the first trip of the year tomorrow.
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Old 06-21-2015, 01:28 AM   #70
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Today, I learned a valuable lesson about the battery. Long story...

** Skip to bottom for the take home message **

Just recently took a 3 night camping trip, and in preparation, brought the battery from home (had been on the battery tender in my garage) and re-connected it to the trailer. No power! I checked my work, and realized that I had connected the posts backwards. The dreaded REVERSE POLARITY!

I quickly disconnected, reconnected it properly and noted the power was on. Battery was full. I then brought the trailer home from my storage place, and parked it in my driveway. Over the next day/night, we prepped the trailer, cooled the fridge, and packed stuff for our trip, all while connected to a 15amp plug coming from my garage. All seemed to be going well.

On the day of the trip, we got everything ready to take off for our fun-filled trip, and lo and behold, I found that the radio was not lit. The display was dead. I pulled the radio, found a blown fuse, and ran out quickly, found a 10 amp fuse, and replaced it. Phew! the radio sprung back to life again. Easy fix, I thought. We then got ready to go, I checked the battery meter, and found that the battery was completely dead! What the! It was plugged into shore power all night and day, couldn't possibly be dead. I replaced it with a spare 12V, which was fully charged, and then everything seemed to be working well. We embarked on our trip, finally, but by this time, we were 2 hours late leaving. No worries. No clocks needed when you're camping...

We arrived, set up quickly, and enjoyed the evening. The lights worked well, and the fridge/microwave seemed to be working fine, but of course, we were hooked up to a 30A plug, so why wouldn't they??

Well, next morning, I woke up early. Turned on a light, and found that the lights were mysteriously dim. Turning on other lights seemed to make them all the more dim. I started to wonder, so I checked the battery meter, and found that the other battery was dead! After some quick research on this forum (Thanks FRF!), I realized that I needed to check more fuses. The Reverse Polarity Fuses on the main panel were blown. 40A fuses! Nope, didn't have spares. Ran out to a store, replaced the fuses, and she came back to life, with the meter finally showing that the battery was charging. I checked all other fuses and found them all intact, so I think this is the end of the problem. Turns out, if the RP fuses blow, the converter cannot convert shore line power to 12V and the trailer lives completely off of the battery. Once the battery goes, so does the rest of the trailer. Replacing the fuses "reconnects" the converter to the main electrical and 12V system, so that everything works. Rest of trip was uneventful, and we logged another 3 nights of camping in our awesome trailer. As you can guess, now I have 5 more 40 fuses, and an array of replacement fuses in my camper toolbox!

** Take Home Message**

Do not EVER connect the battery in reverse polarity. If you do, you can blow the RP fuses. Make sure you have spare 40A fuses (need at least 2 spares) on hand!
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