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Old 10-13-2015, 07:26 PM   #11
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Sorry to hear of the issues with your 2011. I have a 2011 295RLDS that does not have issues yet. Replied to follow this thread. Keep us posted on how it goes.
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Old 10-13-2015, 08:18 PM   #12
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Thanks all, here is a close up of mine (my TT needs a bath). Hopefully this isn't a giant picture, 1st time using iPhone app. I plan to do all joints / entry points with caulk / lap sealant and pray for the best.Click image for larger version

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ID:	91462. Those ripples go all the way down the front (left and right)... Sigh
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Old 10-14-2015, 02:46 PM   #13
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Decided since I financed this rig 80% I better get it fixed. I have insurance which will cover it and pretty solid theory on how this happened. I purchased this unit a month ago and it was sitting on a seasonal site for 2.5 years. I did a full inspection and there were no ripples at that time. After two weeks using it at the seasonal site I towed it 15 miles home. A few days later we got some big rain, 7'' in 12 hours. A few days after that I hauled it to another campground where it sat for a week and another normal rain storm. I first noticed ripples Sunday when I hauled it home. Theory is, the caulking was original and the flexing which occurred during that 1st tow home broke the caulk's seal. Then.. epic rain..and delamination. Lesson this green RV'er already learned ... re-do your roof seals and caulking every two years no matter how good it looks! I'll update with repair costs and before / after pictures in the next few week.
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Old 10-14-2015, 03:28 PM   #14
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You don't need to redo the roof seals and caulking every 2 years. What I do is inspect all seams when I wash it, which is before each camping trip, so at least once a month. Every once in a while I find a dicor joint that has cracked or a caulking joint that has opened up. I always have the stuff on hand and fix it immediately.
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Old 10-14-2015, 06:26 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Campfire79 View Post
You don't need to redo the roof seals and caulking every 2 years. What I do is inspect all seams when I wash it, which is before each camping trip, so at least once a month. Every once in a while I find a dicor joint that has cracked or a caulking joint that has opened up. I always have the stuff on hand and fix it immediately.
I agree with the above as far as the 2 years being way to long. I personally check the roof every spring, summer and in the fall before I cover it for the winter. 2 weeks ago, I noticed that the trim on the left front, top had a 12" crack in the decor where yours failed. The other key areas are the front marker lights. I resealed all the suspected areas with non-sag decor.
I am glad to hear that the insurance company will cover the damage. I am sure the repair shop will pull the front filon and reskin it which would be the only way to fix it.
Thank you for the update, keep us posted.
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Old 10-19-2015, 09:46 AM   #16
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The other thing you will find on this style front panels is heat expansion . The filon expands under hot sun and the screws running through the sides push back against the expansion.
It can be repaired. Remove the corner moldings and enlarge the holes in the front panel where the screws go through it. It's the molding that holds the panel in place.
This allows the panel to expand and contract with out forming the wrinkles
I was all hooked up and ready to bring to my local dealer for an estimate on my insurance claim but I made an unfortunate discovery which seems to prove your diagnosis. I found a picture from the week we purchased the camper (when it was still warm during the day). The ripples were very pronounced, this means I missed this during my inspection so the insurance claim is out the window. When I went out to unhook it from truck this morning (very cold out) the ripples were barely noticeable. This means it is a temperature related expansion issue. Now I need to decide if I'll fix it or just live with it

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Old 10-19-2015, 06:08 PM   #17
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You should not give up the insurance claim. You have damage to your front cap, regardless of the temperature. Mine does not do that when it is 95 or minus 20 degrees.
Get it fixed through your insurance company, that is why you pay them. The insurance company cannot prove it is pre-existing if that is an issue. Seal it up for now so it does not get worse.
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