Hi! I'm new here and have a question about the furnace in my 2012 Coachmen 30 BHS travel trailer. My furnace lights - although it take several tries. I have to turn it on and off for it to light, but eventually it does. So I guess maybe that part is not really a problem.
However, once it gets going, it will turn off when it gets to the temperature on the thermostat, and it comes back on again a few times when it dips below that temperature. But eventually it just shuts off and doesn't come on again. If I move the temperature control up, it will come on again, but not on its own.
The thermostat has a controller for activating the A/C or the heat on one side, and a fan control switch on the other side - it says, "auto", or "lo" or hi" (which is manual).
Any ideas? Is it likely the thermostat/controller? Or am I just doing something wrong?
2021 Transcend Xplor 247BH
Husky WDH with Sway Control
2021 Chevy Silverado 2500HD LT 6.6L V8 Duramax
Forever in my memory. Forever in my heart.
Laurie J. Wood 3/22/67 - 8/23/19
If you have the standard analog Suburban thermostat, it's a piece of junk. I had the same problem with my Roo 19. I replaced it with a Honeywell digital - problem solved.
Had the same one in my Mini Lite. First mod I did was replace it with the Honeywell digital. ($25 at Home Depot).
If you've got an analog Coleman Mach, there's a digital replacement:
If you have the analog Coleman Mach, the digital replacement is the easiest, as the wiring is like-for-like. The digital version goes for ~$55.
The Honeywell (I used a RTH 111) is cheaper, but if you want to keep the 2 speed fan, you need to install a SPST switch in addition to the Honeywell.
If you aren't electrically inclined, I'd go with the digital Coleman Mach replacement. If you are and want to save a few bucks, I'm attaching some pics and wiring diagram.
I installed my SPST in the t-stat itself as you can see in the pics. If you get an RV-type rocker switch (part # in the PDF diagram) you can mount it right in the wall next to the t-stat.