Hi! I'm new here and have a question about the furnace in my 2012 Coachmen 30 BHS travel trailer. My furnace lights - although it take several tries. I have to turn it on and off for it to light, but eventually it does. So I guess maybe that part is not really a problem.
However, once it gets going, it will turn off when it gets to the temperature on the thermostat, and it comes back on again a few times when it dips below that temperature. But eventually it just shuts off and doesn't come on again. If I move the temperature control up, it will come on again, but not on its own.
The thermostat has a controller for activating the A/C or the heat on one side, and a fan control switch on the other side - it says, "auto", or "lo" or hi" (which is manual).
Any ideas? Is it likely the thermostat/controller? Or am I just doing something wrong?
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2021 Transcend Xplor 247BH
Husky WDH with Sway Control
2021 Chevy Silverado 2500HD LT 6.6L V8 Duramax
Forever in my memory. Forever in my heart.
Laurie J. Wood 3/22/67 - 8/23/19
If you have the standard analog Suburban thermostat, it's a piece of junk. I had the same problem with my Roo 19. I replaced it with a Honeywell digital - problem solved.
Had the same one in my Mini Lite. First mod I did was replace it with the Honeywell digital. ($25 at Home Depot).
If you've got an analog Coleman Mach, there's a digital replacement:
If you have the analog Coleman Mach, the digital replacement is the easiest, as the wiring is like-for-like. The digital version goes for ~$55.
The Honeywell (I used a RTH 111) is cheaper, but if you want to keep the 2 speed fan, you need to install a SPST switch in addition to the Honeywell.
If you aren't electrically inclined, I'd go with the digital Coleman Mach replacement. If you are and want to save a few bucks, I'm attaching some pics and wiring diagram.
I installed my SPST in the t-stat itself as you can see in the pics. If you get an RV-type rocker switch (part # in the PDF diagram) you can mount it right in the wall next to the t-stat.
Linear Mode
