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Old 02-05-2016, 10:56 PM   #1
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Furnace won't heat help

Have a coach man freedom express 2015 and the furnace just blows cold air of course it is going down in the 30's here tonight, any help to figure out this Thanks
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Old 02-05-2016, 11:06 PM   #2
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Does your stove work? If so propane can usually be ruled out.
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Old 02-05-2016, 11:34 PM   #3
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Has it worked before?

Several recent threads here where it appears the fan isn't moving enough air to pick up the sail switch, which is necessary for the gas valve to open and the igniter to light it off.

Usual problem is either a crushed heater vent hose or camping at high altitudes.

You don't say what model TT you have. Some folks have the heater under the stove, with a cold air intake that consists of slots in a wooden panel front. Some folks have reported that the removing the air intake cover will be enough to get it to light off.

If there's restricted air flow, improving it at either the intake (cold) or discharge (hot ) side can be enough to pick up the sail switch.
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Old 02-06-2016, 12:40 AM   #4
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When it starts and blows cold (normal) do you hear clicking as it attempts to ignite?
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Old 02-06-2016, 07:31 AM   #5
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No clicking when we turn the furnace on
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Old 02-06-2016, 07:51 AM   #6
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Try these:

RV Furnace Troubles - Fixing RV Frunace Problems

http://www.rvforum.net/miscfiles/Furnace_Trouble-2.pdf
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Old 02-06-2016, 01:43 PM   #7
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Have you recently filled your propane tanks? Last time I did this the furnace wouldn't come on. So I read the 'Operations Guide', again! Turns out that air gets in the lines and you need to do a purge. Here's what I did that worked.

1) Checked the bottles and made sure the cutover lever was pointed to a bottle (not at the 90 degree cutoff position).
2) Used a little fireplace lighter to light each of the store burners. That usually pulls a lot of air out of the lines.
3) Change the thermostat to the OFF position and wait a few seconds.
4) Change the thermostat to the Furnace position and set the degrees up high, say 76 or higher.
5) Wait a few seconds and you should here the blower come on blowing cold air. Let it run until heat start coming out (this can take 2 or 3 minutes depending on how cold it is).
6) Once you feel heat, wait a few seconds and then reduce the thermostat down until the furnace cuts OFF.
7) Using the thermostat, turn the furnace OFF and wait a couple of seconds.
8) Using the thermostat, turn the furnace ON and set temp to 70 to 72 degrees.
9) Blower will kick on and a few seconds later heat will come out.

This works for me everytime. Hope it helps you.
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Old 02-06-2016, 02:02 PM   #8
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are you pluged in to 110 volts power? furnace needs a good solid 12 volts dc from the battery to operate. If dc voltage drops below 9.5 volts the control board is designed to lock out and not start the furnace. Did you turn furnace off and back on at the thermostat to reset the control board if it locked out on a flame failure. Stove has propane and burner lights.

Hope this helps Tim
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Old 02-07-2016, 09:00 AM   #9
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Furnace help

Thanks so much for all your help, never did get it to work but had park ranger come and check circuit and the breaker at the pole was not working only half the breaker was on so he replaced that, as our battery was not charging, this is our third time out and the last time the converter went out, being so new at this makes this site and all your help, really great, am very thankful to all, taking trailer back to dealer on Monday,
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Old 02-08-2016, 06:58 AM   #10
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This make sense. If the park breaker was only passing one of the two lines of power, there's a good chance there was no power to your converter. Without the converter keeping your battery voltage up, your heater would not work. It's too bad you hadn't known that from the start. You probably would have a nice stay.
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Old 04-23-2016, 12:11 PM   #11
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Suburban NT20 furnace ignition problem solved

We noticed that the furnace would not work at all last november 2015 when hooked to campground power (no blower or ignition) . Subsequently,After being left at the shop for 2 months, 8 hours of service was done to the camper; apparently a major re-wire. When we went for our first Spring "shakeout" overnighter in March, we found that while the blower fan worked, the ignitor would not light the furnace. Last weekend I followed steps described elsewhere on these forums to clear out the gas lines. I was able to get the furnace to ignite once, and it actually burned for 2 hours using battery power. When I tried to ignite again after 2 hours off, there would be a momentary burst of heat from the exhaust vent but no ignition. One thing I observed was that a lit burner on the stove would extinguish when the ignitor clicked. When I was able to get a Suburban furnace expert on the phone at the local CW shop, he informed me that it sounded like a bad regulator. I was able to find an exact replacement Fairview Model GR 9959 on Amazon which was delivered same day. The swap out took me an hour (since I was not familiar with the process) to loosen the fittings, properly apply the yellow PTFE thread tape, and soap bubble test the reconnected fittings for gas leaks (there was leakage on the outlet side which I remedied by tightening another turn). We opened the PU this morning. On battery power the ignitor caught the burner 1st try and the furnace ran for 1 hour. We turned the furnace off for 1 hour, and success! again ignited 1st try.

I now have confidence in my ability to do this repair in 30 minutes and plan to carry along a spare 2 stage LP pressure regulator in the camper during the cold months. This new 2014 Viking cws 10 camper has only been in use for 25 months. The regulators should last 10 years but my experience shows only 2 years. So while sail switches and circuit boards may be involved, in this case a $26 part easily replaced by the owner was the cure.
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