Help...

[youroo]

Originally Posted by JonClark

Didn't air up the tires. I checked the air pressure and they were all at factory spec. Was a little white knuckles when I said 70lb they are at 65 psi. I've been involved in blowouts so not testing air pressure when I don't know what they can take. Tightened sway bar and just made it home now. Thanks for the advise. It's going in for service tues and gonna have them inspect everything and put another sway on it. New to this but should not have had this hard of a time.thanks again everyone

kids think tt stands for tan turd.

The way I read this is He has (1) friction sway bar on this setup,and He didn't have the (1)friction bar (Tightened down to the Stop to begin with)? He is going to have the dealer put on another (Friction Sway) total of (2)! Sounds like the Dealer should have put on a (Better W/D Sway Control)in the First Place!! Would be Nice to Know what His (Tounge Weight) % was during this Towing Home Trip also? Youroo!!

[Campin Cajun]

Is no one concerned that he's posting and towing in high winds with a swaying RV?


Just joking, people getting too serious here.


2013 Berkshire 390 BH

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by Campin Cajun

Is no one concerned that he's posting and towing in high winds with a swaying RV?


Just joking, people getting too serious here.


2013 Berkshire 390 BH

Beyond posting to find a campground for the night; no.

[updhaul]

Great you got home at slower speed sometimes it is only answer. Have made stops in roadside parks while the storm passed and spent an extra night in unexpected heavy storms. I think that our former tt was nose light due to heavy bars. Current equalizer clone seems to have responded well to adjustments after installation, very different but very effective on nose heavy wildcat 29. I used camera to record adjustments I made.

[JonClark]

Originally Posted by Campin Cajun

Is no one concerned that he's posting and towing in high winds with a swaying RV?


Just joking, people getting too serious here.


2013 Berkshire 390 BH

Was waiting for this...I only posted when I was pulled over to adjust or somebody needed food or drink or bathroom. I have not gone to the scales which is silly since my father in law owns one. In everything I've read anything over 27feet, I believe, it's recommended to have 2 sway bars. Will be figured out by the end of this week.

kids think tt stands for tan turd.

[Weezer]

Originally Posted by Campin Cajun

Is no one concerned that he's posting and towing in high winds with a swaying RV?


Just joking, people getting too serious here.


2013 Berkshire 390 BH

(shrug) figured his co-pilot was doing the actual postings if they were happening while on the move.

I do that often for DH when we're traveling together. I take dictation well. /snark

[JonClark]

Originally Posted by Weezer

(shrug) figured his co-pilot was doing the actual postings if they were happening while on the move.

I do that often for DH when we're traveling together. I take dictation well. /snark

She was rocked to sleep, or banged her head and was passed out.lol

kids think tt stands for tan turd.

[youroo]

Originally Posted by JonClark

Was waiting for this...I only posted when I was pulled over to adjust or somebody needed food or drink or bathroom. I have not gone to the scales which is silly since my father in law owns one. In everything I've read anything over 27feet, I believe, it's recommended to have 2 sway bars. Will be figured out by the end of this week.

kids think tt stands for tan turd.

You don't supply Info on Trailer,Hitch,weight,ect. So all we can do is supply a (WAG) on your case! Most people do (Stop & Pulloff) during these conditions,Your Kids will call it the (Death Wagon)! Youroo!!

[B and B]

Originally Posted by Herk7769

I found many references to slowing down.

If the trailer still sways, it is either mis-loaded (tongue to actual trailer weight ratio outside safe limits 10%-15%), no WD hitch and trailer weighs more than 50% above tow vehicle (i.e. truck weighs 5,000 and trailer more than 7,500 pounds and no WD hitch), or too long for tow vehicle wheel base (saw lots of those references too).

Herk, I agree on equipment issues. Most people do not have the ability while travelling how to stop sway.
Last month I saw a Honda Minivan pulling a triple axle Airstream that clocks in at 9500 lbs GVW. Some say you can't fix stupid, despite what ever hitch you have this is grossly overloaded.

[SKnight]

Originally Posted by Herk7769

As you say...

Perhaps you can explain it to me. Exactly how does hard tires mitigate trailer sway? Links to source material would help me understand it.

Inquiring minds and all that.

Well, here is an interesting article on trailer sway that says that too much or too little tire air pressure for the load can CAUSE sway.

Search Results

1. Tips on How To Tow a Trailer | etrailer.com
   
   www.etrailer.com/faq-trailertowtips.aspx
   • Cached
   • Similar
   
   
   
   
   If repositioning the load and equipment did not help reduce the sway, a sway control .... Tires with too much or too little air pressure can cause the trailer to sway."
   
   
   Tips on How To Tow a Trailer | etrailer.com
   
   That makes an lot more sense to me.

This assumes that the correct type is actually ON the trailer. Only ST or LT tires should be on the trailer. P type tires will cause excessive sway and tire failures due to over loading (rated tire load must be reduced by 9%).

Originally Posted by OldCoot

Especially the link to substantiate disregarding the max pressure and "airing the tires to their max (screw spec. If the tire can take it, give it.)"

Originally Posted by Tirerack

The stiffer sidewalls and higher operating pressures common with Special Trailer (ST) designated tires help reduce trailer sway.

Source

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...jsp?techid=219

So let me say this clearly. If the tire (And wheel since we're dealing in absolutes.) can take 80PSI and the trailer sticker specs 65. You may have them aired up to 65, which is spec. Lo and behold, put 80 in. That will help reduce sway according to sources because, the HIGHER PRESSURES AND STIFFER SIDEWALLS OF ST TIRES REDUCE SWAY!!!!!!!!!!!

Same goes for your truck, if the rear tires can hold 80 and you're running 65, put 80 in. That stiffening helps keep the trucks tail from wagging.

I know, I know. My experience pales in comparison to y'all.

EDIT TO ADD- Never exceed the tires max pressure as stated on the sidewall no matter what the spec sticker says. Just to clarify that since I speak Greek or something.

Anything else? You'll have to PM me, I'm ditching this thread. I've had enough from y'all.

[Weezer]

Originally Posted by JonClark

She was rocked to sleep, or banged her head and was passed out.lol

kids think tt stands for tan turd.

There's no way on this big blue marble I'll ever sleep while DH is towing, and we're no longer newbs at this. Just ain't gonna happen. I just told him yesterday that I don't think I could have gotten back into RVing if I didn't have such faith in his driving and towing abilities. I've assigned my self certain duties, one of which is to constantly monitor the wheels/tires on my side of the 5er via the tow mirrors. Yeah, I'm OCD about those Trail Express still on ours. But I'm going to be checking with a certain tire guy who is a member here about pricing on a set of new shoes for Buffy; Goodyear Marathon Size D, two pairs please! in the next few days.

It'll be nice to finally feel like I don't have to hold my breath every time we're towing.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by SKnight

Source

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...jsp?techid=219

So let me say this clearly. If the tire (And wheel since we're dealing in absolutes.) can take 80PSI and the trailer sticker specs 65. You may have them aired up to 65, which is spec. Lo and behold, put 80 in. That will help reduce sway according to sources because, the HIGHER PRESSURES AND STIFFER SIDEWALLS OF ST TIRES REDUCE SWAY!!!!!!!!!!!

The reference you are using is comparing ST and LT tires to P series metric and passenger tires. ST and LT tires are made with stiffer sidewalls and higher pressures for the load range "as compared with "P" series tires".

80 PSI tires are load range E; 65 PSI tires are Load range D.

If the camper has load range E tires on it (and the sticker says 65 PSI on it), the OEM tires would have had to have been replaced by the owner with the higher load range ones.

Trying to put 80 PSI in a 65 PSI OEM D range tire is as stated before "dangerous;" but I don't think that is what you are recommending.

Sway (with the correct tires, inflated to the placard pressure), can not be cured by changing the proper tire pressure for the load.

In fact, over-pressurizing a tire for the load will reduce tread in contact with the road surface (wear patterns for over pressure for load clearly show this) and can increase sway tendencies as stated previously (as does under-inflation and for the same reason).

Stating "not to exceed" the sidewall pressure is a "quibble" because most OEM tires are placarded to be inflated to the max so as to ensure it is capable of handling the load at it's GVWR.

[Total Bliss]

Everyone is giving great opinions. But I have not heard an "absolute". We are all in a hurry to get home, to get back to work, or just get back. Tailgating someone that is not going fast enough for a driver seams to be the thing to do also. It seams that in high winds, sway is always a possibility. I'm reading that the answers are to "reduce" not "end". It is amazing that the possible answer is to stop and wait for the winds to die down. Disaster is a shadow that follows everyone if not careful. I'm just guessing on this.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by Total Bliss

Everyone is giving great opinions. But I have not heard an "absolute". We are all in a hurry to get home, to get back to work, or just get back. Tailgating someone that is not going fast enough for a driver seams to be the thing to do also. It seams that in high winds, sway is always a possibility. I'm reading that the answers are to "reduce" not "end". It is amazing that the possible answer is to stop and wait for the winds to die down. Disaster is a shadow that follows everyone if not careful. I'm just guessing on this.

In the air force it is called PPPPP - prior planning prevents poor performance.

Much of what needs to be done to prevent your problem involves things that should have been done before you left.

Scaling your rig and adjusting the load for proper tongue load (perhaps); having the correct trailer for your tow vehicle (perhaps); having the correct length tow vehicle for the trailer (perhaps); or buying a much better anti-sway hitch is all best done before you leave.

Now that you are on the road, your options get severely limited.

1) Stay where you are as long as it takes for the winds to die down
2) Hire a towing service to take your camper home
3) Get it (carefully) to a competent RV dealership close by to buy a proper hitch for your camper

I truly wish you and your family safe travels.

[JonClark]

Well thought it was all set but you don't know till you go. By the way I have a 2012 F250 CC 4x4 and a 2014 freedom express 320bhds. For added info I had no problems towing the weekend before heading to the campground. Only had an issue on the way home in high cross winds.

kids think tt stands for tan turd.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by JonClark

Well thought it was all set but you don't know till you go. By the way I have a 2012 F250 CC 4x4 and a 2014 freedom express 320bhds. For added info I had no problems towing the weekend before heading to the campground. Only had an issue on the way home in high cross winds.

You have plenty of truck for your camper; at 37 feet long it might be "longish" for a short bed crew cab, but also very manageable with a proper hitch.

Your problem is most likely a combination of improper loading and an inadequate hitch for that length of camper.

Without a clear idea of the actual weight of the camper and truck, getting a tongue weight won't help much. Is the camper perfectly level with the truck when hooked up?

Buying an additional friction sway bar (2 total) may help but you most likely will need a true 4 point anti-sway hitch.

[mark0224]

High wind the best answer has been given slow down. Another help would be to add weight and the easiest way to do that is fill all the tanks with water. Tanks are at a low center of gravity and the weight is usually over the axles. Mine would equal (2 gray, 1 black and fresh) over 700 lbs. Now it may cause gas mileage to go down but getting home safe is worth it.

[youroo]

Originally Posted by mark0224

High wind the best answer has been given slow down. Another help would be to add weight and the easiest way to do that is fill all the tanks with water. Tanks are at a low center of gravity and the weight is usually over the axles. Mine would equal (2 gray, 1 black and fresh) over 700 lbs. Now it may cause gas mileage to go down but getting home safe is worth it.

Bad advice to fill Tanks, if our tanks were filled (Ours are in the Very REAR F/W & Gray) it takes T/W off and is a (DEATH TRAP)! All tanks are NOT over the Axles! Youroo!!

[Cajun Po-Boy]

Originally Posted by JonClark

Well thought it was all set but you don't know till you go. By the way I have a 2012 F250 CC 4x4 and a 2014 freedom express 320bhds. For added info I had no problems towing the weekend before heading to the campground. Only had an issue on the way home in high cross winds.

kids think tt stands for tan turd.

Then sounds like a hitch/sway control issue if you only experienced problems in high cross winds...Easy fix, just will cost a few dollars

[JonClark]

Originally Posted by Cajun Po-Boy

Then sounds like a hitch/sway control issue if you only experienced problems in high cross winds...Easy fix, just will cost a few dollars

Of course it will cost a few $$.lol And my tanks are front and rear of axles, 2 grey, 1 black, 1 fresh. Will deal with the dealer tomorrow and see how that goes.

kids think tt stands for tan turd.