My First Time Winterizing, Catalina. A little confused

[dannyshane]

Hello All, I love this forum. learned a lot already. Thanks
I bought a Catalina 243RBS late August (my first RV). I'm about to attempt to winterize, but a little confused. Also, I'm in upstate NY and it gets COLD.

I do not have an air compressor, so I am going to just have to do it with RV Antifreeze only.

Here's what i think i have to do so far...

1- Turn the 3 water heater bypass knobs.
2- Release the pressure on Water Heater and then Drain the water heater
2B- Remove drain plug for the fresh water tank at botton of RV.
3- Open all faucets and outside shower
4- Turn Water pump on for 15 seconds to clear water out of lines
5- Pour Antifreeze into Sink drain, Shower drain, and Toilet
6- Close all faucets and outside shower

That's what i gathered so far.... not sure if that is correct...

But i do have questions about the above...
Regarding number 4... OK so I have a Fresh Water Connection on front of RV, and a City Water Connection at rear of RV... I was told at the dealer that the water pump button was just for the freshwater connection (for when im not using the city water connection at a campground etc). So if i turn the water pump on, im assuming it will just clear the freshwater tank? and i still need to do it even if i didn't use that?

Another question - regarding 2B... Do I re-attach this freshwater tank drain plug before storing away for winter?

and yet another question: ive read that RVs have water filters.. and that they need to be removed. Does anyone know where it is in the catalina 243 rbs because i cannot find this thing.

OK, well sorry for so many questions.. I just bought it and I am hoping it doesn't get damaged the very first winter.

Thanks for reading

[Scrapper]

I know there is a small screen filter on the intake side or your water pump that will still have water in it. If you can get eyes on the water pump there might be a larger filter on the output side that will also have water in it. Running the pump or using air to blow out the lines will not get all the water out of the filters. Another place that can cause problems is the flush valve for the toilet. Many have had that valve crack because of water left in it, and it doesn't take much.

[Chaplain Kent]

I am not sure where your water filter is but you might try looking under kitchen sink.
You are missing a step, which is to either blow out your water lines or fill them with anti-freeze. You have residual water settled along the lines and inside your water pump. It takes just a small amount to split the pex piping.
I do both. First I will drain water heater then hook my compressor to the city water inlet. ( eBay sells a fitting for $6.99,I made one with a length of pipe and a standard compressor connector.)With all the faucets closed and the plug out from the water heater I turn on the compressor until the air blowing out of the WH is dry. Next I turn the valves on the by pass closing off the WH. and open bottom drain outlets, you should have two, one hot one cold. Start up the compressor until you just have air. Close the drains and remove the hoses from your shower inside and out, store these inside the house. Open all faucets and turn on the compressor, more water will come out. I will repeat this several times allowing the system to be pressurized with air then opening the faucets, you will be amazed at the water which comes out. Do not forget to hold down the pedal of your toilet. Finally I take off the inlet side hose from the water pump. I have made a hose with just the female connector to the water pump and about 5' of plastic hose. You can buy a kit for about $20.00. I pour four gallons of anti-freeze in a five gallon jug and stick the hose inside. Next I turn on the water pump, and walk around the trailer turning on each faucet and toilet until the anti-freeze is running out. Do not forget the outside shower and the low point drains. I pour the remaining anti-freeze down the traps and the holding tanks. In the spring I rinse the anti-freeze out.
This is my fourth RV living in the Upper Midwest and I have never had a plumbing problem from freezing. You should have no problems with your new trailer. Just remember if there is no water to freeze it will not be a problem.

[dannyshane]

Thank you both for the replies. I appreciate it greatly.

Do I absolutely need a compressor? if so, I'll check their pricing at home depot.

Also, If I find the water pump, I can just unhook the inlet pipe and put that in a bucket of rv antifreeze? so I'm guessing the inlet pipe can be found under the camper?

Sorry for the questions, i'll be out side searching for the water pump in the morning. there is something under the sink so i will check that out.

[Chaplain Kent]

[QUOTE=dannyshane;1657300]Thank you both for the replies. I appreciate it greatly.

Do I absolutely need a compressor? if so, I'll check their pricing at home depot.

Also, If I find the water pump, I can just unhook the inlet pipe and put that in a bucket of rv antifreeze? so I'm guessing the inlet pipe can be found under the camper?

In my opinion anyone who owns a tow-able RV needs a compressor. It is the best way to winterize but more important you can maintain the correct air pressure in your tires. The small wheels on your trailer spin a lot more than the tires on your tow vehicle. They get hot and easily blow out if not properly inflated. We no longer have gas stations and you do not take your trailer in for regular servicing like oil changes where the tire air pressure is checked. You should check your air pressure prior to each trip. Use your air compressor to top off the air and stay safe. Harbor Freight always has them on sale. I got a great one at ACE hardware, better price than HD.

To find your water pump,simply turn it on and listen, follow the sound and there it is. The inlet hose goes towards your water tank. Mine is behind the outside grill and accessible by removing a panel in a lower cabinet. You will need an extension hose. Easy to make by using a 1" female plastic fitting with a hose extension on the end. Once again my local ACE has them. Buy any length of 3/4 inch hose (ACE again, you can purchase just the length you want) and attach with a hose clamp.
It is great that you are taking an interest in learning how your RV works. The more you know the happier your camping trips will be. I have restored two vintage trailers and owned a camper rental business. When there is nothing left to fix on my trailer I create a project. Good luck to you.

[WFD]

By pumping RV antifreeze through your system, you will alleviate all that is mentioned in Scrapper's post, that's the whole purpose of using the antifreeze as opposed to simply relying on compressed air.
Do you need an air compressor...no...is it handy as Chaplain mentions...absolutely. But you can winterize without blowing lines out first. The antifreeze will replace the water in your lines as you turn your faucets on to cause the flow. Most RV antifreeze is rated for -50, so even if the antifreeze gets slightly diluted by any remaining water, it will still leave you with more than adequate protection....many people here don't blow their lines out first and simply pump antifreeze through. Personnally I do both...matter of preference.
Your water pump may have a short piece of hose attached to the end of a bypass valve, similar to your hot water tank bypass valves. This is for suctioning the antifreeze right from the jug. Not all trailers have this, but most do. If yours doesn't, they can be purchased and are not very expensive.
You also mention a freshwater tank drain plug...many trailers don't actually have a drain plug, but rather have a valve you simply turn to drain...when done you simply shut that valve.

You don't mention this in your original post, but somewhere on the bottom of your trailer you should see 2 Low point Drains, 1 for the cold and 1 for the hot. You will want to remove the caps from these drains as there will be water in there as well.

There are many You Tube videos that go through all the winterizing steps. Watching a few of those will help you a lot.

[Hutch333id]

Originally Posted by dannyshane

Do I absolutely need a compressor? if so, I'll check their pricing at home depot.

.

I live in western Canada and have winterized my trailers every year since 2008 when I started RVing. It often gets down to -40oC (-40oF) here so everything gets really frozen in. I have never used a compressor and never suffered any damage as a result. I winterized my rig yesterday using just the pink anti-freeze, which for my unit meant about 2.5 gallons. I make sure I run the anti-freeze for a few seconds through each tap because it will dilute slightly with the water still in the lines. The inline filter housing (take the filter out first) is full of anti freeze which I then use to pour in to the traps.

[jkoenig24]

If you don't want to buy a small air compressor, can you borrow one for a few hours? Blowing most of the water out will save you some RV antifreeze. Over the years, the savings will pay for a small compressor (which you REALLY should have to keep your tire pressure correct).

For those with icemakers or residential refrigerators with water/ice on the door, a Dynamax employee told me that RV antifreeze degrades the clear thin water line that delivers water to my fridge. I had TWO pinhole leaks in said hose. Pulling the fridge out to gain access to said hose is a PITA. This year, I'll just blow out that fridge water supply line and, cross my fingers that I get all/almost all of the water out. I understand that the solenoid valves WILL be damaged if water freezes in them. Forest River does NOT do a good job in telling buyers EXACTLY HOW to winterize RESIDENTIAL appliances.

[jughrad]

My 2 cents. Use anti-freeze through the pump and you won't need the compressor. That should also fill the p-traps if you let it run a few seconds after seeing pink.

Air alone could leave water in the valves. It won't burst any pipes but can degrade the valve seals in your faucets. Don't forget the outside shower if you have one.

RV service departments just use an external pump and push it through the city water port.

[jughrad]

I did a video on winterization my first time winterizing. Since I did a lot of late fall and early winter camping last year I have since stopped using air and winterize at the RV park on each trip. Anti-Freeze is cheap and easy. I also put thumb screws on the access panels to ease the process.

https://youtu.be/RNCZ6iCbzbs

[dannyshane]

thanks everyone! Very much appreciated! very helpful. I just finished winterizing my RV for the first time (well mostly done). it was pretty easy (thanks to you all).. Although I couldn't find a socket big enough to drain the hot water heater... the biggest i had was 7/8... even lowes didn't have bigger. autozone did, i bought two (an inch, and also 15/16) and neither fit. lol. so i have to go back in the morning to return those and get a bigger size. lol. then I'm finished. thanks again!!!!

[andymil]

The water heater drain plug is 1 1/16" (1 and 1/16").