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Old 10-12-2011, 04:21 PM   #1
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Question Suburban SW6DE water heater basics

Husband and I recently purchased a new 2011 Coachmen Catalina 22FB. Dealer walk-through was basically useless, and I have been spending LOTS of time pouring over the various manuals (not user friendly either; another rant!)

Meanwhile, we had our 1st maiden voyage, which when pretty well.
But I am confused as to the operation of the water heater; here's why..
After hooking up to city water, making sure HW tank was full and getting good water flow from all the taps, we hooked up to electricity. Fairly quickly, we were getting hot water, no prob during entire stay.

But a couple of days later, I noticed a rocker switch on my interior monitor panel marked "Water heater". I had not had this turned on the entire time and didn't know what its purpose was. Once back home and just guessing at this point, since I hadn't jotted down the actual model # of the WH in my manual (my bad), that it's the SW6DE model, which runs off electric and/or propane.?

If so, can someone verify how and when I'm to toggle back and forth?
I'm thinking, the switch located in the panel on the outside the TT was in the "ON" position. Is this only to be turned on when using 110? And if so, is that why we got hot water without doing anything else?

If we had been boondocking, would I have had to turn on the interior rocker switch to have it run on LP? If so, would I still have to have to outside switch on "ON"?

I've also read that the HW heater can run on elec & propane at the same time for faster HW recovery. If so, do both the exterior and interior switches need to be turned on??

I know....dumb question, but would appreciate any insight.
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Old 10-12-2011, 04:29 PM   #2
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The interior rocker switch is for propane operation only. The small exterior switch is for 110 volt only. There should also be a breaker for the 110 volt, but if you were getting hot water on shore power, then that is already on.

Either system can be worked independently, or together for faster recovery.
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Old 10-12-2011, 04:52 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aberg View Post
Husband and I recently purchased a new 2011 Coachmen Catalina 22FB. Dealer walk-through was basically useless, and I have been spending LOTS of time pouring over the various manuals (not user friendly either; another rant!)

Meanwhile, we had our 1st maiden voyage, which when pretty well.
But I am confused as to the operation of the water heater; here's why..
After hooking up to city water, making sure HW tank was full and getting good water flow from all the taps, we hooked up to electricity. Fairly quickly, we were getting hot water, no prob during entire stay.

But a couple of days later, I noticed a rocker switch on my interior monitor panel marked "Water heater". I had not had this turned on the entire time and didn't know what its purpose was. Once back home and just guessing at this point, since I hadn't jotted down the actual model # of the WH in my manual (my bad), that it's the SW6DE model, which runs off electric and/or propane.? Yes

If so, can someone verify how and when I'm to toggle back and forth? MTNGUY covered this in his reply
I'm thinking, the switch located in the panel on the outside the TT was in the "ON" position. Is this only to be turned on when using 110? And if so, is that why we got hot water without doing anything else? Yes. However as a precaution, I would suggest that as part of breaking down camp you turn off this switch or as many others do, turn off the inside 110v WH breaker. This way if you ever plug into AC, for whatever reason, you won't fry the WH electrical heating element. When setting up camp you would do as you did your first time out: connect to city water, fill WH tank, connect to AC, then turn on WH (rocker switch outside or breaker inside, whichever you choose to use).

If we had been boondocking, would I have had to turn on the interior rocker switch to have it run on LP? Yes in order to use LP gas. If so, would I still have to have to outside switch on "ON"? This one can be on or off (since you won't be connected to AC it doesn't matter). One caveat, many boondocking bring along a generator, so if on and connected to a gen set it will be powered. I would leave it off.

I've also read that the HW heater can run on elec & propane at the same time for faster HW recovery. If so, do both the exterior and interior switches need to be turned on?? Yes

I know....dumb question, but would appreciate any insight.
See responses in red. Hope these answers cover your questions, otherwise please follow up with any additional questions. No question is ever a dumb questions, however some of our actions can be considered dumb.
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Old 10-12-2011, 05:23 PM   #4
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Thanks so much for your explanations! I just needed to hear it in "layman's" terms! I will definitely remember to turn off either exterior rocker switch or the inside breaker when breaking down camp. That way, in case we mess up and don't do things in the right order next time out, I won't fry anything!
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Old 10-12-2011, 05:32 PM   #5
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You will be alright! And by the way, to the forum!
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Old 06-04-2012, 07:58 AM   #6
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frankm,
I'm trying to get y HWH working on AC. Using LP, we get plenty of HW, but when I switch to AC I get nothing.
I have verified the Black AC switch is on in the exterior compartment, and the circuit breaker in my control center is on (I have reset it more than once). Can you think of any reason I can't get hot water from AC? Is there something simple I'm overlooking? Do you have any suggestions?

Thanx in advance,
Chuckster
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Old 06-04-2012, 08:14 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuckster View Post
frankm,
Can you think of any reason I can't get hot water from AC? Is there something simple I'm overlooking? Do you have any suggestions?

Thanx in advance,
Chuckster
Yep,
1- the 120 v outlet found in the rear of your water heater tank is dead. You
can check it with a meter or just plug in something like a drop light or something
to tell you it's working.
2- the hi limit thermostat has kicked out. Try pushing on the reset found behind the rubber cover near the top of the tank. This is located outside
where the burner is.
3- the electric element is burned out. Remove the burner tube and the lower
cover to reveal the screw in element and it's connections. Place a volt meter across the element terminals and if you have 120v but no heat the element is burned out.

You can also read this thread for somewhat more complete trouble shooting of your unit.
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ter-23525.html

Be SURE and turn off ALL POWER AND LP GAS WHEN WORKING ON
THE WATER HEATER UNIT.
You can turn electric back on once you are actually ready to test voltage
at the terminals.
If you are unsure or not confident in your ability to do this go to a pro for
help.

Good Luck!!
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Old 06-04-2012, 08:23 AM   #8
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Good day Chuckster, is this a brand new camper or a used one you either recently bought or have had for a while? Has the WH worked on AC before and this time out isn't? Since you already ruled out the hi temp limiter being tripped (by resetting it) I would test the electrical connection at the WH itself and if that checks out, then that leaves the electrical element being burned out. Let us know what you find!
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Old 06-04-2012, 08:54 AM   #9
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KyDan, Thanks for your input, ideas and the link to Dry fired...

frankm, this is a new 2012 trailer and this is our 3rd outing. As mentioned in previous posts, we have hot water via LP but nothing through AC. The on/off switch inside the exterior compartment is on and the circuit breaker in the control center has been turned off and then reset.
We are currently out on our 4th outing, this time in Gettysburg through the 13th, so I'm working to resolve this issue. Why pay for LP when AC is free?

Thanks fellas, I appreciate all the suggestions and ideas for solving this problem.

I'll keep you posted — and thanx again...
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Old 06-04-2012, 10:53 AM   #10
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Chuckster...if you can access the back of the WH, look to make sure that the electrical element is plugged in. There'll be a dedicated AC outlet to plug into.

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Old 06-04-2012, 02:03 PM   #11
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Thanx for your input and comment. I understand that the AC outlet is a good place to verify AC power is available at the HWH.
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Old 06-05-2012, 07:33 AM   #12
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Problem re-defined!

Thanks to everyone who had taken the time to respond with ideas, tips and resources — they have all been great and highly appreciated.
After hours of crawling around and tracing plumbing and wiring, I believe the HWH works on AC after all, but the water temp is barely above the temp of the cold water tap.

Does anyone know if the thermostat is adjustable and how to access it if so? My manual implies it is behind the black rubber boot covering the reset buttons (I have pressed both many times by the way).

LP provides hot water with no problems...

Any additional thoughts are appreciated.

Brand new 2012 Catalina, 4th trip

Thanx,
Chuckster
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Old 06-05-2012, 03:58 PM   #13
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No the thermostat is not adjustable.
At first I immediately thought you have a winterize valve in the wrong
position or maybe only partially turned in the correct position.
That happens all the time.
Folks complain they have luke warm water and it turns out to be a miss-positioned
winterize valve handle.
But you say the gas heat hot water is hot??

If that is true it might be a bad thermostat, maybe.
I'm not totally convinced but maybe.
IF you start with a cold hot water tank and the electric heater is off,
and you turn the electric heater on, you should be able to hear the element
"sing" in the tank. It sounds like ....... whales talking to each other or
it sounds like a pan of water heating on the stove.
It's not real loud but if it's quiet around you, you should be able to hear it.
IF that happens and the singing stops carefully pull the pop off valve
handle briefly. That is found near the top of your water heater tank outside
in the burner area.
Be careful and don't burn yourself. IF you pull the pop off and get luke warm
water out then I'll agree your thermostat is bad.

Here is a photo of both the 12v and the 120v thermostats.
They are located under the rubber "reset" cover.
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...8&d=1337210425
In this photo the one on the left is the 120v one.
You'll have to figure out which is the 120v in your heater.

You can replace it for about $20.
They can be got from most any RV parts desk or online at lots of places.
The come in 120 deg F and 140 deg F.
Get the 140 fer sure.
Dig out your water heater manual and there should be a parts listing
there with the thermostat part number.
Google that and you'll find lots of places to order it from with a range
of prices.

Good luck.
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Old 06-05-2012, 07:52 PM   #14
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Thanx for the response. I suspected a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker (or some secret additional connector or something) but I can't find any problem with the AC circuits so while testing the AC heating, I finally noticed the hot water wasn't quite as cold as the cold water from the tap which got me thinking about the thermostat. We get plenty of hot water using LP but nothing using AC. Since the thermostat cannot be adjusted, I guess its time to purchase a replacement one maybe tomorrow and install it.
Thanx again...
Chuckster
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Old 07-01-2012, 08:28 AM   #15
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Hot Water Heater Only running on Propane

We just bought a Salem 30KQBSS and I noticed that our hot water heater is only running on propane even though it should be able to run on electricity. I read a post on here that mentioned the dedicated power outlet for the heater and noticed the heater wasn't plugged in.

The real problem now is that I can't reach the outlet to plug it in. It's located under the sink behind the drawers. I have a pretty long reach but still it's over a foot away!
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Old 07-01-2012, 08:54 AM   #16
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PCMR,
I still haven't resolved my problem but I'm going to a Coachmen rally next week so I'll get to speak with some Coachmen experts!

I must comment that the problem you have identified is something I haven't noticed or looked for. With the installed HWH by-pass there is not much space available so it is difficult to see much, much less get access to anything. I bought a new HWH element, but so far haven't figured out how to access the element.

You might be able to use some long BBQ thongs, or some specialty automotive pliers to hold the plug while you make the stretch to plug-in the connector.

Good luck and let us know how you make out...

Chuckster
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Old 07-02-2012, 08:48 AM   #17
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Hot Water Heater Only running on Propane

Fixed the problem. My wife took a set of sturdy BBQ tongs and wrapped a bungee cord tight around the end to make sure it wouldn't let go of the plug. Then we used a stick to reach in and unravel the bungee cord.

It was quite the ordeal for something so simple but glad it's done!

Happy Camping.
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Old 07-02-2012, 09:01 AM   #18
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Success is sooooo sweet!
Enjoy your "home on wheels," ad be safe!

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Old 11-11-2012, 09:07 PM   #19
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Joined this forum to say...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave_Monica View Post
Chuckster...if you can access the back of the WH, look to make sure that the electrical element is plugged in. There'll be a dedicated AC outlet to plug into.

Dave
THANKS... like many, I was surfing the net seeking answers on my maiden voyage in my new 2013 Rockwood 8289WS, Diamond Pkg. Having already left the dealer with the Revolution wedge installed 180 degrees backwards (figured this out when I got home), I was spending my first night in the 5er with plenty of propane HW, and no joy for AC HW. After chasing wiring for a while, I found this forum, found the above post, and immediately knew this was the problem... and it was. I had to unscrew the fixed cabinet door in the galley to access the back of the HWH, saw the dedicated AC outlet with nothing plugged in, then reached behind the HWH and retrieved the hidden plug. Plugger her in, and shazamm, AC HW.

Such a simple fix, just one more thing that Dick Gore's RV World in St. Augustine, FL missed during the useless PID.

Thanks again,

Nights Camping in 2013: 2 (including tonight!)
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Old 11-12-2012, 07:34 PM   #20
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I also have a Suburban SW6DE WH in my 2006 Surveyor that I recently acquired and this thread has helped me a lot in understanding how it should work. Could someone advise me as to the std. size of the circuit breaker in the control panel for the water heater. It's hard to make out what the breakers are actually for based on the description scribbling next to each breaker. I'm assuming it's the 20 amp but I'm not sure. If I could reach the dedicated plugin I could check the circuit but it's behind a small panel located between the sink and the refrigerator and it would take someone a lot smaller than me to reach it. Is there any other easy way to reach the plug and receptacle from outside of the tt?
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