Water heater won't light with gas?

[Herk7769]

Sometimes if the flue is clogged with debris (spider web or wasp nest), the propane mixture will be too rich to ignite or maintain combustion.

You could try blowing it out with compressed air or a water hose. Watch your eyes (goggles) if you use compressed air.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Herk7769

Sometimes if the flue is clogged with debris (spider web or wasp nest), the propane mixture will be too rich to ignite or maintain combustion.

You could try blowing it out with compressed air or a water hose. Watch your eyes (goggles) if you use compressed air.

I think he said he's not even getting a spark.

[heavyodie]

I think the person that said it won't light if you have a tank full of hot water is on the right track. Turn off the electric and then let the water run until you get cold water out of your faucet. Then try lighting it.

[garbonz]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

I think he said he's not even getting a spark.

My question is whether the "clicking" is the spark, which is what I think. What would be clicking? A relay or something.

I don't even know where I would look for a spark?

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by garbonz

My question is whether the "clicking" is the spark, which is what I think. What would be clicking? A relay or something.

I don't even know where I would look for a spark?

The gas solenoid should not "click" more than once.

The DSI will fire as long as the control board is sending a "light" command. About enough time for 3 or 4 snaps of the sparker (about 6 or 7 seconds).

It will then go into a purge cycle and flush out the nozzle with propane prior to trying to light again. If the area is "flush" with propane, it will not light again. The unit will try this "light" then "flush" 3 times before it locks out and you will need to shut the propane switch off for a minute to reset the water heater.

[MagnoliaTom]

Here's my water heater. Tried it again today, not lighting. I hear it click, then I hear the gas, but no ignition. Does it 3 times then it locks out.

[heavyodie]

Originally Posted by MagnoliaTom

Attachment 52337

Here's my water heater. Tried it again today, not lighting. I hear it click, then I hear the gas, but no ignition. Does it 3 times then it locks out.

If your sure you're hearing gas then it has to be an igniter problem. You can take it apart and make sure that there isn't carbon built up on it. Use some light sandpaper to clean it up and make sure that it is aligned with the gas stream. I just had to replace the gas valve on mine even though two different supply houses said those never go bad.

[MagnoliaTom]

Originally Posted by heavyodie

If your sure you're hearing gas then it has to be an igniter problem. You can take it apart and make sure that there isn't carbon built up on it. Use some light sandpaper to clean it up and make sure that it is aligned with the gas stream. I just had to replace the gas valve on mine even though two different supply houses said those never go bad.

Yes, it's gas. I can smell it. Funny thing is, I'm not sure it's ever worked on gas.
I think I've always used electric. The igniter seems clean, I think it needs replacing as there is no spark when it tries to light

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by MagnoliaTom

Attachment 52337

Here's my water heater. Tried it again today, not lighting. I hear it click, then I hear the gas, but no ignition. Does it 3 times then it locks out.

The spark should be in the chamber where the black wire hooks to the porcelain sparker. You should see a spark from the end of the probe to the burner itself. If not, consult the manual for the exact measurements the probe has to be from the burner.

If the sparker is too far away from the burner, it will not spark and if it is too close or close to something other than the burner it will not light.

[Herk7769]

Never worked on gas?

Clean that flue!

[VinceU]

Just add to all this, try it at night, no lights nearby. I'm wondering if the igniter supply is working but as in old auto spark plug wiring somemes the spark jumps to "ground" before reaching the target igniter. You'll probably see it in the dark.

[MagnoliaTom]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

The spark should be in the chamber where the black wire hooks to the porcelain sparker. You should see a spark from the end of the probe to the burner itself. If not, consult the manual for the exact measurements the probe has to be from the burner.



If the sparker is too far away from the burner, it will not spark and if it is too close or close to something other than the burner it will not light.

The gap is supposed to be 1/8", which it is. I'm referring to the gap between the sparker (white porcelain probe with wire on it) and the "probe" that is beneath it. There is no spark between these when the water heater tries to ignite. If I put a match in there, it will light but it goes out after a couple of seconds. That leads me to believe the sparker is bad

[garbonz]

Yes it sounds like the igniter is bad. Replace it.

[jeeplj8]

Originally Posted by MagnoliaTom

Attachment 52337

Here's my water heater. Tried it again today, not lighting. I hear it click, then I hear the gas, but no ignition. Does it 3 times then it locks out.

Tom - in looking at your unit and comparing it to mine - the sliding tube that controls the amount of air being mixed looks to be at the most closed position. Mine is not, it is close to wide open.

I wonder if the problem is yours is not getting enough O2? Since you can light with a match but it goes out this suggests it either starving for fuel or oxygen.

[MagnoliaTom]

Originally Posted by jeeplj8

Tom - in looking at your unit and comparing it to mine - the sliding tube that controls the amount of air being mixed looks to be at the most closed position. Mine is not, it is close to wide open.



I wonder if the problem is yours is not getting enough O2? Since you can light with a match but it goes out this suggests it either starving for fuel or oxygen.

I'll give that a try. Thanks

[Herk7769]

Opening the shutter leans the mixture; closing it enriches it.

Crud in the stack prevents the propane from flowing naturally into the combustion chamber making an over rich mixture as well.

Someone may have tried to fix an over rich mixture by opening the shutter.

There should be a "starting" shutter opening amount in your operators manual. If not, check the installation manual.