Bedroom heat flow

[harrinc]

I know winter is about over, but a question to the other people with a 356QLB. Do you have a low air flow coming out of your floor heat vent in the bedroom? Mine heats barely in the bedroom. Is this normal or is something wrong with my air flow?

[Oaklevel]

Ours seems to heat fine............................ Maybe something fell into your duct during manufacture?????

[harrinc]

I took the vent completely off and looked, didnt see anything. Unless there is an issue farther back to the unit. Dont know where the duct work ties in.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by harrinc

I know winter is about over, but a question to the other people with a 356QLB. Do you have a low air flow coming out of your floor heat vent in the bedroom? Mine heats barely in the bedroom. Is this normal or is something wrong with my air flow?

Don't have a 356QLB, but we had the same problem with all the trailers with the forced air ducts until we put closable vents on them to decrease the flow nearest the furnace and living rooms. The flow was particularly low in our new 12Flagstaff 8528RKWS until we installed the closable vents. I also changed the duct transition to get it out of the storage area and for some reason or other, that helped also.
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...rea-35920.html
Very easy to do with the alum duct tape and alum flashing. It also warms the floor.

[Witch Doctor]

I will bet that all your ducts are 4" no matter how far the run go's. They do not size the duct work for the length of the run. You can only use adjustable registers to regulate the air flow or install 4" dampers that you can open or close at the Plenum. Becareful not to close to many off at one time of either option. You will start to have cycle problems on your limit switch. You have to exhaust the hot air, Also the static pressure will build up and that will cause early blower motor failure.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by gljurczyk

I will bet that all your ducts are 4" no matter how far the run go's. They do not size the duct work for the length of the run. You can only use adjustable registers to regulate the air flow or install 4" dampers that you can open or close at the Plenum. Becareful not to close to many off at one time of either option. You will start to have cycle problems on your limit switch. You have to exhaust the hot air, Also the static pressure will build up and that will cause early blower motor failure.

You are correct. I added another outlet in the bathroom using the outlet that was in the storage area and closed. Took all the 'kinks' out of the flex tubing that I could find and re-routed them to smooth out turns in the ducting. Got good results.

[Biscuit]

I found a mouse nest clogging my duct work plus they also made some holes in it which allowed the air to blow out into the belly of the trailer. Used a blower stuck into the vent to blow out the mouse nest in the duct work.

[harrinc]

Thanks all..

[Mhorowitz]

I just bought a Coachmen Freelander 28QB Ltd. The floor vent in the bedroom has very little flow. I took the grill off and looked at the furnace. I found that there were four connected ducts, 2 four inch and 2 2.5 inch. The two 4 inch ducts go to the galley/main room and the head/toilet compartment. The 2.5 inch ducts go to the entry/stairs and the bedroom. The head gets overheated, and the bedroom is cool/cold. I can't believe that anyone intended that the 6 sqare foot head compartment should get more heating than the 64 square foot main sleeping area. I would like to switch these two ducts but not sure how to feed a new duct hose out to the bedroom. Also the floor vent seems to have a 4 to 2.5" reducer so guess I would need to replace that. Suggestion of duct covers with closers might be another route to solve this.

Suggestions??

Thanks.

[Campingnut]

On previous trailers that I have had I have added a booster fan in the duct to the bedroom and had it wired so it only came on when the furnace was on.