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Old 02-27-2013, 10:00 PM   #81
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Only one reply so far and it was a guy with a Fuzion. He said he only need a few inches and simply used washers between the chain mounts and the bed frame. Not a bad idea if you only need to raise it a hair.
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Old 02-27-2013, 10:08 PM   #82
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That's a good idea. May have to try that.
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Old 02-28-2013, 11:02 AM   #83
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Update on the bed raise. I went and looked at the way the beds work. I had thought about getting a couple of 2 x 4's and running them across the brackets, but I still needed more raise. If that is all someone else needs then go that route. The way I am going to do mine is I am going to remove the screws from the wall that hold the whole system to the camper, and raise all of it. There are 4 small metal brackets that the top bunk rest one when you lower the beds, they are adjustable to different heights. They are located in the rail where the chain is. I will set it back to the original height. Now granted the lower bunk will be closer to the top bunk, but it is one more bed that is not there when we go camping.
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Old 02-28-2013, 10:45 PM   #84
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My ramp door to the toy area is slick, especially if it gets wet. What have you guys done to keep from busting your but on this? I saw some tape that you can put down to help get grip, thinking of trying that. Any other ideas?
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Old 03-01-2013, 06:05 AM   #85
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Lets us know if you find something that works. We will do the same.....I do not know if tape will stick since it is not a smooth surface??? The door can be slick....

Also I have sent off for hinges to allow the golf car roof to be lowered 5 inches & raised back into place.
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Old 03-01-2013, 07:44 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FandRChambers View Post
My ramp door to the toy area is slick, especially if it gets wet. What have you guys done to keep from busting your but on this? I saw some tape that you can put down to help get grip, thinking of trying that. Any other ideas?
2 things.. First, it seems as though most of the guys on the UTV forums just get individually inventive and figure out ways to get their machines in. Most lower the air pressure in the tires which on those machines can drop it a few inches and others do things like the washers etc. I still know I read somewhere where a guy removed the actual mounts from the chain and remounted them higer on the chain. This of course made the all the way down position higher but got him more clearance but I have no idea how to do that.

Second, with regards to the ramp door, what about something like grip tape like they put on smooth floor ramps. Or maybe even a gritty paint on solution like a garage floor paint with grip??
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Old 03-01-2013, 08:22 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kfp673 View Post
2 things.. First, it seems as though most of the guys on the UTV forums just get individually inventive and figure out ways to get their machines in. Most lower the air pressure in the tires which on those machines can drop it a few inches and others do things like the washers etc. I still know I read somewhere where a guy removed the actual mounts from the chain and remounted them higer on the chain. This of course made the all the way down position higher but got him more clearance but I have no idea how to do that.

Second, with regards to the ramp door, what about something like grip tape like they put on smooth floor ramps. Or maybe even a gritty paint on solution like a garage floor paint with grip??
Lowering the air pressure in the tires & or washers is close but not enough for my golf car clearance. The manufacturer refused to change anything about the beds while the TH was being built. So I do not want to void my warranty.....I am currently taking the cart roof off each time. Which only gives me about 2 inches to spare. I am going to try the roof hinges they claim to give 5 extra inches. That means cutting the carts roof supports but its doable.......

I doubt grip tape will stick to the ramp door as the surface is rough. Don't know if paint would stick either going to look into that.....


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Old 03-01-2013, 05:41 PM   #88
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Good discussion guys, the grip type tape is what I was going to try. I'm also going to look at using washers too. Last resort will be the hinges. Oak let me know how the hinges work, degree of difficulty etc. I don't like the idea of letting the air out or taking the roof off for every trip. I'll let you guys now what I come up with this weekend, I'm going to try and come up with a plan because camping season is only weeks away!!
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:09 PM   #89
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Ok I have a plan. Replacing the pins with bolts and using washers and nuts to raise bed a few inches. That should do the trick for me.
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Old 03-07-2013, 10:04 AM   #90
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Changing topics a bit back to heat in the garage. I am still stuck on this. I have not pulled the trigger on a toy hauler quite yet. Went to an RV show last weekend and saw amazing TH's that made me drool and were $30K more than the puma so out of the question. I just sent an email to Puma to see if there is anyway to order a Puma with heat in the garage or add it to the existing heat system after the fact. I know it is simple to use a space heater but I just have too many concerns. When we go ATV riding I plan to leave the dogs in the garage area and if they were to knock the heater over, chew the cord, etc etc we could have problems (the least of which being no heat) Also for long road trips we will often just pull into a truck stop for the night and go to sleep and just run the heater off the battery. Again, these are not that big of a deal but I figured I would ask. It would make this a much easier decision if they had heat. I also wish they had a master bedroom slide in the 351. If they came out with a model that was roughly $5K more (assuming that is what a slide is worth) and added that to the master so you had room to move around I would be totally sold. One of our ongoing complaints about our current travel trailer is that we have to leave the bedroom to get dressed because there is no room. We end up with clothing all over the camper :-) Anyway, Ill let you know what we find out.
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