Second AC options on 356QLB

rmoore0852 · 07-08-2016, 02:51 PM

Ok, I have a few questions about adding a second AC on our 356QLB. We live in west TX and camp in the summers here, so we have decided that a second AC is needed.

1. Our camper is a 30A service, which probably won't run a second AC. Should we look at converting the camper to a 50A service, or just run the second AC off of a separate cord to the 15A plug when we are at campgrounds? I am good at electrical work and have no doubt I could do the wiring, but what parts would I need to go 50A and about what would they cost?

2. Location of the second AC? The bedroom vent would be the easiest place to install and my first choice, but roof there is awfully sloped. I looked up the mounting instructions for a Dometic AC and they specify no more than a 10 degree angle. My roof angle is 14 degrees over the bedroom. The guys at my local RV dealer say that it will be fine, but has anyone actually done it?
Second location option is in the garage. I do have the electric beds, which go up to close to the ceiling. Looks like with the AC in the garage, the only way to use the second AC would be when the beds are dropped. This would help us sometimes, but not when we have toys in the garage which won't let us drop the beds down.

Who has added second AC's to their rigs and how/where did you mount them?

Kenny kustom · 07-08-2016, 11:32 PM

Second ac went in the bedroom on my sabre.
My rig is 50A though.
Front has a slope.
Penguin 2 low profile.

2016 Sabre 36QBOK
2015 Ram 3500 CUMMINS

ferguson65 · 07-09-2016, 10:40 PM

I've been there! Bought a new 351THSS with 30A service and one 15K A/C. After a few trips I decided it was inadequate. I asked the dealer for a quote to convert to 50A and add a second unit in the garage. In a deal with FR instead of sending it back to the factory for repairs, FR paid for the 50A conversion and second A/C. If you're footing the bill, a separate dedicated 20A service for the A/C will cost less, but there's nothing like doing it right. To do that you need the 50A inlet and cord, new converter/fuse panel with 2 legs, and 6 ga wire to connect the inlet and PDC.

Ours is in the garage, just in front of the beds, but IIRC with the loft on the 356 that may not be an option. I would always want the second unit in the garage, daytime to cool down or maintain we run both. Nighttime, we can get by with just the garage and it keeps the noise down. Keeping the garage door closed I feel the front 15K does ok to keep the LQ cool. Both units on our trailer are 15k. It will now get MUCH cooler than the wife cares for!

TURBS · 07-09-2016, 11:01 PM

I been there done that.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...per-90283.html

2015 Columbus 320RS
2008 2500HD Duramax
2015 nights camped "34"
2016 nights camped "14"

rmoore0852 · 07-10-2016, 01:17 PM

ferguson65, yes the loft bed creates a bit of an issue. I would have to do a garage install ABOVE the lift beds, which means the beds would have to be dropped for it to work. That install also creates a control issue, since the ceiling in there is 8 feet high I would have to crawl up onto the top bed just to reach the AC controls. Definitely not the ideal mounting location.

My concern about the bedroom mount is the rather steep slope of the roof where the bedroom vent is mounted. In doing some research and reading TURBS great write up, I think I have a solution. Looks like some models of the Dometic ACs can handle a 15 degree slope. Last measurement I came up with a 14 degree slope on my bedroom roof. While being that close to the maximum makes me nervous, apparently there's not a choice. Since I have a pass through storage under the bedroom, I'm hoping I can manage to get the wiring down the wall to this storage and add the wiring receptacle down there. I may be this fall before I tackle the project. It's 105 here right now and a bit too warm for this kind of work.

WolfWhistle · 07-11-2016, 05:54 AM

Here's what I did ... ran a 12-2 from garage through a 20 amp breaker to a marine male on the outside of unit. Its the white outlet ... the wire runs to the ceiling vent in case me or anyone wants a conventional roof AC in the future. The floor opening is also screened / open through the coroplast. The >$300 Haier 10k btu has fan only and dehumidify modes and evaporates the extracted water and thus far emptying the condensate has not been needed. It is way, way more quiet than any roof AC. Its plugged into the originsl plug because I am only using fan mode right now. It also has remote control, which begs the question why doesn't $700+ roof air have them?
WW

bubbubouy · 07-12-2016, 05:23 PM

I feel your pain. We have a 356QLB with one a/c unit and it will not keep up. Our camper was wired from the factory with 50 amp service with the extra power service in the garage. I am also planning on another a/c unit, I looked at the space above the bunks in the garage when they are in the up position and there looks to be about 6" between the top bunk and the ceiling. Although that may slow down the cooling process I don't believe it will stop it. I plan on using a wall mounted thermostat so I don't have to climb up there. Just my thoughts...input welcome...

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rowdydog77 · 07-12-2016, 05:27 PM

Just finished adding a second A/C. See Turbs response. That is what I did and seemed the easiest to me. Same as u. 30 amp. Works great.

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TURBS · 07-12-2016, 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rowdydog77

Just finished adding a second A/C. See Turbs response. That is what I did and seemed the easiest to me. Same as u. 30 amp. Works great.

Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106][emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

2015 Columbus 320RS
2008 2500HD Duramax
2015 nights camped "34"
2016 nights camped "14"

TURBS · 07-12-2016, 07:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rowdydog77

Just finished adding a second A/C. See Turbs response. That is what I did and seemed the easiest to me. Same as u. 30 amp. Works great.

Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106][emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

2015 Columbus 320RS
2008 2500HD Duramax
2015 nights camped "34"
2016 nights camped "14"

rmoore0852 · 07-12-2016, 09:56 PM

Yeah, for me the wiring isn't a big deal. I'm comfortable with electrical and about any aspect of construction or mounting. Preferred location would be the bedroom, but the roof slope concerns me. Bubba, the 6" above the bunk concerns me that the unit would freeze up if the bunks weren't dropped. Most of the time dropping the bunks isn't an issue, but while traveling with the bikes in the garage that isn't possible. Plus why cool the garage when the bikes are the only things back there and they put a really nice sliding glass door to seal off that area?

Just an odd thought, any way of making a wedged shim under the AC if I mounted it over the bedroom?? My concern would be getting it watertight, but has anyone built a pedestal of some sort under a roof AC unit to level it up? The Puma's have a really aerodynamic, nice roof line, but the front of the roof where the vent is really slopes down to the front cap.

rmoore0852 · 07-12-2016, 09:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bubbubouy

I feel your pain. We have a 356QLB with one a/c unit and it will not keep up. Our camper was wired from the factory with 50 amp service with the extra power service in the garage. I am also planning on another a/c unit, I looked at the space above the bunks in the garage when they are in the up position and there looks to be about 6" between the top bunk and the ceiling. Although that may slow down the cooling process I don't believe it will stop it. I plan on using a wall mounted thermostat so I don't have to climb up there. Just my thoughts...input welcome...

Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums

I have been told that Attwood makes an AC unit that has a remote. Haven't looked into it much yet. Wish mine was already wired, that would make this process much easier.

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