2012 Wildwood BHBS Suburban Water Heater issue

[e_dog4]

So I went through the forum searching water heater threads and am even more confused than previously... Here is my problem- Have my camper on a perm site hooked up to campground power so I use the electric for the water heater. Late last season I started having an issue where we would come to the camper, have no hot water so I would push the reset button and a bit later the hot water started to flow but it came out VERY HOT and then we would lose the hot water. My assumption is that the hi limit is kicking the water heater off because of the high temps so I think I need to replace the thermostat/Hi limit. Now back to my issue with the theads I have looked through. I have seen people say the left thermostat is the 120V therm and I have seen people say the right one is the 120V therm so which is is. One last question, I am a newbiw when it comes to using the propane portion of my camper since we have always been on a perm site. If I wanted to use the propane for hot water ever do I need to have a battery hooked up to the camper to get it to kick on even though we are on 120V power? Thanks in advance for the help.

[Herk7769]

So, since it on a permanent site, when was the last time the unit had the anode removed and the unit flushed out?

CLOSE the winterization valves and TURN OFF the outside rocker switch

Remove and inspect the anode while draining the unit from the outside of the rig.

Replace anode with a new one if needed (betting you will).

Flush from the outside with a flushing wand that will fit into the anode hole.

Water Heater Tank Rinser - Camco 11691 - Water Heaters - Camping World

Tape the threads of the new anode with Teflon tape and replace it

Open the valves to "use"

Make sure your pressure relief valve opens and reseals as the water heater fills.

Turn on the electric element.

I am pretty sure your tank is loaded with sediment.

[TURBS]

I agree with lou.
I'd also like to ask if you get the same symptoms if you use gas only?

TURBS


"Sabre owners united"

[e_dog4]

I live in MN so i need to winterize every year so when I do that I drain/flush the water heater and use the bypass so the anode is inspected every year and is still in very good shape (maybe at 10% per your diagram above).
TURBS- I will try the propane this weekend. That kind of flows into my second question that since I never use propane do I need a battery for the ignition to work with propane or will my campground power work with it? Somewhat confused as I know one of the therms is for 12V/Propane so am wondering if I need 12V battery to get the direct ignition to work. Have never had a battery hooked up to the unit since we are on a perm site.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by e_dog4

I live in MN so i need to winterize every year so when I do that I drain/flush the water heater and use the bypass so the anode is inspected every year and is still in very good shape (maybe at 10% per your diagram above).
TURBS- I will try the propane this weekend. That kind of flows into my second question that since I never use propane do I need a battery for the ignition to work with propane or will my campground power work with it? Somewhat confused as I know one of the therms is for 12V/Propane so am wondering if I need 12V battery to get the direct ignition to work. Have never had a battery hooked up to the unit since we are on a perm site.

The converter will supply the 12 volt DC power for the control panel and ignition.

Also make sure your bypass valve is closed because if it is open; the blast of hot water will be followed by a mix of hot and cold.

Remove the rubber cover from your thermostats and inspect them visually.

If any are corroded or damaged, you will need to replace it.

[OldCoot]

To answer the other question the op had: The left hi limit is the 110v with black wires. The right one is 12v and for propane. Replace both. You can get 120d, 130d or 140d hi limits. Make sure you get both with the same temp setting.

[TURBS]

The propane side needs 12 to fire.
Your converter should supply good 12v but it is wise to have a battery always present otherwise your converter life will be reduced significantly.

TURBS


"Sabre owners united"

[e_dog4]

Thanks for the responses. Had called for an estimate for the service guy to come and fix but since it is an on-site fix they need $100 just for travel+Labor+Parts. At least now I can give it a whirl myself and maybe repair for under $25.