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Old 04-22-2018, 08:50 PM   #1
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2015 Clipper 16B, no water heater switch

Newbie here. We just bought a 2015 Coachmen Clipper 16B. Going over all the controls, hoses, panels, etc. According to the original owner's manual the unit has a Suburnab SW6DP gas/electric water heater installed and should have a ON/OFF switch for the electric side either in the camper near the sink or behind the outside WH access door. It is not in either place. I want to be sure the electric side is OFF when I plug in shore 120 VAC so as not to harm the heating element. There is a Gas On/OFF/Ignite switch inside but no electric that I can find. HELP please. Thanks. Pics attached.
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Old 04-22-2018, 08:56 PM   #2
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Looking at your pic here, this Suburban has no electric heating element, so you don't have such:



It has to be a SWDE or SWDEL model in order to have an electric heating element
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Old 04-22-2018, 09:03 PM   #3
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2015 Clipper 16B, no water heater switch

The model number is blocked in the second pic, what does it say? If it’s DP it’s “direct spark ignition” (as opposed to needing to be lit manually) but not electric heating elements.
(Edited because I confused things by naming the wrong model!)
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Old 04-22-2018, 09:09 PM   #4
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Just a FYI, if you did have a Suburba with an electric element, it would have the switch on the face, as well as an electric element underneath the black cover to the right of switch and to left of the anode rod/drain

Here is a pic of one with an electric element so you can see the difference between it and your model, without an electric element.



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Old 04-22-2018, 09:31 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fluffywhitedogs View Post
The model number is blocked in the second pic, what does it say? If it’s DE, it’s “direct spark ignition” (as opposed to needing to be lit manually) but not electric heating elements.
Uhhh, the D in the model number means Direct Spark, but the E is for electric heating element.

Here is a breakdown of the models:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...do=file&id=210

MODEL OPTIONS
:
P: Pilot Gas Heating Only

PR: Pilot as heating with 12 Volt DC Pilot Re-igniter

PE: Pilot Gas Heating with 120 Volt AC Heating Element

PER: Pilot Gas Heating with 12 Volt DC Pilot Re-igniter and 120 Volt AC Heating Element

D: 12 Volt DC Direct Spark Ignition Gas Heating Only

DE: 12 Volt DC Direct Spark Ignition Gas Heating and 120 Volt AC Heating Element

DEL: 12 Volt DC Direct Spark Ignition Gas Heating and 120 Volt AC Heating Element with 12 Volt Relay for Interior Operation of Electric Heating System.

DEM: 12 Volt DC Direct Spark Ignition Gas Heating and 120 Volt AC Heating Element and Motor Aid Heat Exchanger
*(Motor Home Only)

V: 120 Volt DC Direct Spark Ignition Gas Heating Only

VE: 120 Volt DC Direct Spark Ignition GasHeating and 120 Volt AC Heating Element


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Old 04-22-2018, 09:36 PM   #6
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I already edited my post cuz I realized I’d had a blonde moment
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Old 04-23-2018, 06:37 AM   #7
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Thanks so much for your quick responses. I had no idea they made a "gas only" model. I'm really disappointed to learn that but that explains why I spent 1.5 hours looking for an electric turn-off switch without success.

If you don't mind, 1 follow-up questions. I know to turn off the bypass valve first but what is the quickest "correct" way to fill the WH tank at the campsite if we have city water?
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Old 04-23-2018, 06:48 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Outsider View Post
Thanks so much for your quick responses. I had no idea they made a "gas only" model. I'm really disappointed to learn that but that explains why I spent 1.5 hours looking for an electric turn-off switch without success.

If you don't mind, 1 follow-up questions. I know to turn off the bypass valve first but what is the quickest "correct" way to fill the WH tank at the campsite if we have city water?
If you are certain, you have the bypass valves correct ( which you should only change once for winterizing the RV, and once for dewinterizing the RV for usage), then you just simply hook up to city water and it will fill the water heater tank.

You can turn on a hot water tap at the sink, to bleed the air out of the lines.

These video guides may help too

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...d.php?t=135977
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Old 04-23-2018, 06:57 AM   #9
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Also as you stated you were a newbie, this thread may help a lot, as it has many links to things to get you familiar with an RV.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...d.php?t=157524
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Old 04-23-2018, 01:40 PM   #10
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And...

Quote:
Originally Posted by wmtire View Post
If you are certain, you have the bypass valves correct ( which you should only change once for winterizing the RV, and once for dewinterizing the RV for usage), then you just simply hook up to city water and it will fill the water heater tank. once you open a hot water tap.

You can turn on a hot water tap at the sink, to bleed the air out of the lines.
After the air is out, you may wish to run the water a bit longer, to flush the lines.

If you do this in the kitchen sink, you can run the water into a bucket, to avoid filling the grey water tank.

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Old 04-23-2018, 02:55 PM   #11
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The “toggle thingy” with the blue label around the base is a pressure relief valve. I always open it before turning the heater on, just to be extra certain that the tank is full.
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