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Old 10-08-2016, 03:38 PM   #11
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This may be "overkill", but I will drain the lines and water heater, blow the lines of any excess water, then suck anti-freeze though out, drain it again and blow out everything. This will insure no water left in any low points and I won't have any aftertest of anti-freeze next Spring. So far no problems! I do this because of a very costly replacement of a Aquahot system we had in a Beaver diesel pusher a few years ago that wasn't properly winterized.
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Old 10-08-2016, 05:03 PM   #12
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The Campbell Hausfeld compressor I mentioned above is small and compact and is also available at Lowe's.
Shop Campbell Hausfeld 0.2-HP 1-Gallon 110-PSI 120-Volt Pancake Portable Electric Air Compressor at Lowes.com
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Old 10-08-2016, 07:30 PM   #13
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I bought an oil free Porter-Cable 150 psig compressor with a 6 gallon tank at Home Depot on sale for $99. 150 psig is great for pumping up the coach tires and it drives my impact wrench very well, although not for long. My old shop compressor didnít get it since it doesn't restart until it's down to 80 psig.
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Old 10-09-2016, 10:25 AM   #14
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I blow out my water lines using a 125psi Sears tankless compressor that is kept in the RV. There's a pressure regulator built into the hose which I set to 30psi when doing this.

I tried using one of the small HF pancake compressors in the RV but gave up on it when I discovered that he compressor didn't come on until the tank pressure dropped to 80psi. Unfortunately, this isn't high enough to top off the RV tires.

Phil
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Old 10-15-2016, 10:16 AM   #15
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Shop Vac

What about using a Shop Vac to blow out the lines? The pressure is not really that high and the volume of air should move the water out. Thoughts???? Yes, I'm a newbie.
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George
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Old 10-15-2016, 10:25 AM   #16
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I don't think a Shop Vac will work. First of all, if you connect it to the city water connection, which is where compressor blow out is normally done, it will not have enough pressure to open the check valve. If you connect somewhere else, I would worry that the small lines (reefer and icemaker which are 1/4) won't clear at all.

Stick with a real compressor and set it to 20 or 25 pounds of air pressure.
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Old 10-15-2016, 10:39 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by camaraderie View Post
Harbor Freight has a 1/3 HP 100PSI pump for $59.99...and this weekend they have a 20% off on line coupon. For an adjustable occasional use pump that is pretty hard to beat.

3 gal. 1/3 HP 100 PSI Oilless Pancake Air Compressor
I use the oil less 150 psi version of this with a regulator. I leave this compressorbin my basement also. It is great other small repairs including airing the tires in my TV and fiver. I also use it with a blower nozzle to clean off my roof, slides, and clean my gutters out.
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Old 10-15-2016, 10:40 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by thundrr1 View Post
What about using a Shop Vac to blow out the lines? The pressure is not really that high and the volume of air should move the water out. Thoughts???? Yes, I'm a newbie.
My old Sears shop vacuum blows out a ton of dust, and other "stuff", when I set it up for blower mode. I would not want that "stuff" getting in my water lines! A newer, cleaner vac might not be as bad as my oldie but I would be very hesitant to try it...
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Old 10-15-2016, 10:56 AM   #19
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Everyone is using 30psi. That is good to know. I set my compressor to 40 to blow out the lines. Time to turn it down a bit. Good tip
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Old 10-15-2016, 11:17 AM   #20
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Everyone is using 30psi. That is good to know. I set my compressor to 40 to blow out the lines. Time to turn it down a bit. Good tip
What's the problem with 40 psig? The system is rated for at least 150 psig and is protected at 150 psig by the water heater pressure relief valve. You won't hurt the system with any pressure up to 150 psig, you'll just blow water all over if you leave a faucet open or when you open it. If you're comfortable with 40 psig, use it. If you like 30 psig and it clears your lines, use it.

Consider the argument that you need a pressure regulator on the incoming city water line or you'll have leaks. Why? You can get high pressure on the system anyway. If you use hot water and the water heater then heats water with no faucets open, the expansion of the water will cause the pressure to rise. If there's not enough air in the water heater to absorb this expansion, the pressure can cause the relief valve to weep until the pressure drops. I have that happen often and it's never caused a problem with the plumbing. It can make it hard to open the toilet water valve, but I just reach over and open the hot water on the sink for a second.
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