Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-25-2013, 10:14 AM   #1
Senior Member
 
RPAspey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: central PA
Posts: 973
air in hot water tank..

I've started to get this annoying problem. Even though I purged all the air from the hot water tank and have been using the hot water, air still forms in the hot water side of the system. If the hot water is used, the air will burst out, then once purged, it won't happen again until the hot water sits unused for a few hours. The water system is tight - no leaks - and my water tank is well above the pump intake. This problem has only occurred since I de-winterized this year. It only happens on the hot side. My gut feeling is that when the hot water cools between uses, it draws air into the hot water heater tank. I would think I would see a drip though. What do you all think?
__________________

__________________
2000 Cherokee 29BH with 6V batteries, LED lights & 400 watts of solar power, flipped axles and raised. 2007 Tundra 5.7L DC-LB with lots of mods. C-co, 8/158th AVN Maint.
RPAspey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2013, 10:26 AM   #2
Mod free 5er
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,215
Try purging it with the pop off valve on the top of the water heater.
__________________

__________________
OldCoot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2013, 10:53 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
RPAspey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: central PA
Posts: 973
That over pressure valve has never been operated. I'm afraid that it won't re seat if I do that now. I'll try that after this trip. Closest camping store is over an hour away right now.
__________________
2000 Cherokee 29BH with 6V batteries, LED lights & 400 watts of solar power, flipped axles and raised. 2007 Tundra 5.7L DC-LB with lots of mods. C-co, 8/158th AVN Maint.
RPAspey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2013, 11:08 AM   #4
Mod free 5er
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,215
Quote:
Originally Posted by RPAspey View Post
That over pressure valve has never been operated. I'm afraid that it won't re seat if I do that now. I'll try that after this trip. Closest camping store is over an hour away right now.
You can pick them up at any hardware store, Lowes, HD etc.
__________________
OldCoot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2013, 11:17 AM   #5
Phat Phrog Stunt Team
 
TURBS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,336
X2 what oc says.

Imo that's how it should be done everytime the wh is drained and refilled is with the pressure relief valve.


Turbs

He's correct that you can buy the valve at any hardware store.
__________________
TURBS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2013, 12:28 PM   #6
Owner/Operator
 
RodeoGeorge's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Chino Valley, AZ
Posts: 671
There are two common P&T (Pressure & Thermal) Release Valves available at most hardware stores.

The Atwood Water Heaters use the one with the 1/2" Male Pipe Thread.

The Suburban Water Heaters use the one with the 3/4" Male Pipe Thread.

RodeoGeorge
__________________
2013 Rockwood 8289WS
Mods: Central Vac, PI EMS-HW50C, 2025RV, (2) SCS225 Trojans, PD9260, Awning Remotes & LED Lights, Eliminators, External Water Filter,, Intellijacks
2008 RAM 3500 Cab&Chassis Hauler Bed, B&W Companion Hitch
All My Modifications are at this link:
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ons-36212.html
RodeoGeorge is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2013, 12:44 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
RPAspey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: central PA
Posts: 973
sweet, I thought that it would be something unique. I'll try the valve. But why when we do dishes in the morning, it spits for a few seconds, then stops? When we clean up dinner dishes, it sputters again. This has been repeated since first trip this spring. In previous years, once purged of air, it never sputtered unless we hooked up to city water (very rare)
__________________
2000 Cherokee 29BH with 6V batteries, LED lights & 400 watts of solar power, flipped axles and raised. 2007 Tundra 5.7L DC-LB with lots of mods. C-co, 8/158th AVN Maint.
RPAspey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2013, 01:23 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
RPAspey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: central PA
Posts: 973
just looked more closely at the heater configuration. the hot outlet is as high as the over pressure valve. I think I'm safe when I say air should purge the same thru the pipes as it does the pop off valve.

Oh, I don't want to try to replace that valve during this trip. There is rust around the threads. The Teflon based sealant looks to be in good shape, but I don't want to chance the threads getting buggered up, then not having hot water for another two weeks if I have to replace the water heater.

My luck is such that, when I'm prepared with the toils and time to do it right, nothing goes wrong, BUT, if I try to fix it on the fly..... well all he!! breaks loose.
__________________
2000 Cherokee 29BH with 6V batteries, LED lights & 400 watts of solar power, flipped axles and raised. 2007 Tundra 5.7L DC-LB with lots of mods. C-co, 8/158th AVN Maint.
RPAspey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2013, 01:28 PM   #9
Mod free 5er
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,215
Quote:
Originally Posted by RPAspey View Post
just looked more closely at the heater configuration. the hot outlet is as high as the over pressure valve. I think I'm safe when I say air should purge the same thru the pipes as it does the pop off valve...
The pressure valve will bleed air out that the faucets will not get. The outlet may look as high, but I will bet it isn't. All you have to do is flip the lever. It will reseat. You may have to flip is several times, but it will reseat especially if the water is hot.
__________________
OldCoot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2013, 02:10 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
Arefbee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Eastern PA
Posts: 875
I think the winterization valve may have a leak and is allowing air into the system through the anti-freeze hose (assuming a similar system to mine).
That or a pin hole in the line from the tank to the pump. Air is being drawn into the system and getting trapped and then heated in the WH.

Stop the air coming in and no further issues.

I would operate the bleed valve as well. I like knowing it is working.
__________________

__________________
2011 PrimeTime Tracer 2600rls
2001 GMC Yukon XL 2500, 6.0L 4.10:1 axle ratio
Nights camping 2014 - 17
2013 - 15
Arefbee is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




ForestRiverForums.com is not in any way associated with Forest River, Inc. or its associated RV manufacturing divisions.


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:09 PM.