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06-25-2013, 09:14 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: central PA
Posts: 978
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air in hot water tank..
I've started to get this annoying problem. Even though I purged all the air from the hot water tank and have been using the hot water, air still forms in the hot water side of the system. If the hot water is used, the air will burst out, then once purged, it won't happen again until the hot water sits unused for a few hours. The water system is tight - no leaks - and my water tank is well above the pump intake. This problem has only occurred since I de-winterized this year. It only happens on the hot side. My gut feeling is that when the hot water cools between uses, it draws air into the hot water heater tank. I would think I would see a drip though. What do you all think?
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2000 Cherokee 29BH with 6V batteries, LED lights & 400 watts of solar power, flipped axles and raised. 2007 Tundra 5.7L DC-LB with lots of mods. C-co, 8/158th AVN Maint.
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06-25-2013, 09:26 AM
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#2
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Try purging it with the pop off valve on the top of the water heater.
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06-25-2013, 09:53 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: central PA
Posts: 978
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That over pressure valve has never been operated. I'm afraid that it won't re seat if I do that now. I'll try that after this trip. Closest camping store is over an hour away right now.
__________________
2000 Cherokee 29BH with 6V batteries, LED lights & 400 watts of solar power, flipped axles and raised. 2007 Tundra 5.7L DC-LB with lots of mods. C-co, 8/158th AVN Maint.
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06-25-2013, 10:08 AM
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#4
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RPAspey
That over pressure valve has never been operated. I'm afraid that it won't re seat if I do that now. I'll try that after this trip. Closest camping store is over an hour away right now.
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You can pick them up at any hardware store, Lowes, HD etc.
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06-25-2013, 10:17 AM
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#5
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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X2 what oc says.
Imo that's how it should be done everytime the wh is drained and refilled is with the pressure relief valve.
Turbs
He's correct that you can buy the valve at any hardware store.
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06-25-2013, 11:28 AM
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#6
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Owner/Operator
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Chino Valley, AZ
Posts: 671
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There are two common P&T (Pressure & Thermal) Release Valves available at most hardware stores.
The Atwood Water Heaters use the one with the 1/2" Male Pipe Thread.
The Suburban Water Heaters use the one with the 3/4" Male Pipe Thread.
RodeoGeorge
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2013 Rockwood 8289WS
Mods: Central Vac, PI EMS-HW50C, 2025RV, (2) SCS225 Trojans, PD9260, Awning Remotes & LED Lights, Eliminators, External Water Filter,, Intellijacks
2008 RAM 3500 Cab&Chassis Hauler Bed, B&W Companion Hitch
All My Modifications are at this link:
https://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ons-36212.html
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06-25-2013, 11:44 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: central PA
Posts: 978
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sweet, I thought that it would be something unique. I'll try the valve. But why when we do dishes in the morning, it spits for a few seconds, then stops? When we clean up dinner dishes, it sputters again. This has been repeated since first trip this spring. In previous years, once purged of air, it never sputtered unless we hooked up to city water (very rare)
__________________
2000 Cherokee 29BH with 6V batteries, LED lights & 400 watts of solar power, flipped axles and raised. 2007 Tundra 5.7L DC-LB with lots of mods. C-co, 8/158th AVN Maint.
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06-25-2013, 12:23 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: central PA
Posts: 978
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just looked more closely at the heater configuration. the hot outlet is as high as the over pressure valve. I think I'm safe when I say air should purge the same thru the pipes as it does the pop off valve.
Oh, I don't want to try to replace that valve during this trip. There is rust around the threads. The Teflon based sealant looks to be in good shape, but I don't want to chance the threads getting buggered up, then not having hot water for another two weeks if I have to replace the water heater.
My luck is such that, when I'm prepared with the toils and time to do it right, nothing goes wrong, BUT, if I try to fix it on the fly..... well all he!! breaks loose.
__________________
2000 Cherokee 29BH with 6V batteries, LED lights & 400 watts of solar power, flipped axles and raised. 2007 Tundra 5.7L DC-LB with lots of mods. C-co, 8/158th AVN Maint.
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06-25-2013, 12:28 PM
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#9
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RPAspey
just looked more closely at the heater configuration. the hot outlet is as high as the over pressure valve. I think I'm safe when I say air should purge the same thru the pipes as it does the pop off valve...
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The pressure valve will bleed air out that the faucets will not get. The outlet may look as high, but I will bet it isn't. All you have to do is flip the lever. It will reseat. You may have to flip is several times, but it will reseat especially if the water is hot.
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06-25-2013, 01:10 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Eastern PA
Posts: 881
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I think the winterization valve may have a leak and is allowing air into the system through the anti-freeze hose (assuming a similar system to mine).
That or a pin hole in the line from the tank to the pump. Air is being drawn into the system and getting trapped and then heated in the WH.
Stop the air coming in and no further issues.
I would operate the bleed valve as well. I like knowing it is working.
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2011 PrimeTime Tracer 2600rls
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06-25-2013, 02:24 PM
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#11
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Owner/Operator
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Chino Valley, AZ
Posts: 671
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You should not bleed ALL the air out of the HW Heater. There should be an air cushion at the top to allow for expansion as the water heats. This prevents the expanded water from opening the P&T Valve.
The HW Heater is designed so that the proper amount of air is left inside as water is drawn out the top outlet. Opening the P&T Valve manually impinges on that air cushion.
RodeoGeorge
__________________
2013 Rockwood 8289WS
Mods: Central Vac, PI EMS-HW50C, 2025RV, (2) SCS225 Trojans, PD9260, Awning Remotes & LED Lights, Eliminators, External Water Filter,, Intellijacks
2008 RAM 3500 Cab&Chassis Hauler Bed, B&W Companion Hitch
All My Modifications are at this link:
https://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ons-36212.html
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06-25-2013, 03:06 PM
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#12
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RodeoGeorge
You should not bleed ALL the air out of the HW Heater. There should be an air cushion at the top to allow for expansion as the water heats. This prevents the expanded water from opening the P&T Valve.
The HW Heater is designed so that the proper amount of air is left inside as water is drawn out the top outlet. Opening the P&T Valve manually impinges on that air cushion.
RodeoGeorge
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What you say may be true, but I've been doing it ever since our first trailer with a water heater in 1975 with no ill effects or the pop off ever "popping". Guess I've been lucky.
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06-25-2013, 04:40 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: central PA
Posts: 978
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RodeoGeorge
You should not bleed ALL the air out of the HW Heater. There should be an air cushion at the top to allow for expansion as the water heats. This prevents the expanded water from opening the P&T Valve.
The HW Heater is designed so that the proper amount of air is left inside as water is drawn out the top outlet. Opening the P&T Valve manually impinges on that air cushion.
RodeoGeorge
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So, what I've been doing is correct? All I've ever done is bleed thru the water system, as is the SOP with all trailer guides and other helpful manuals.
__________________
2000 Cherokee 29BH with 6V batteries, LED lights & 400 watts of solar power, flipped axles and raised. 2007 Tundra 5.7L DC-LB with lots of mods. C-co, 8/158th AVN Maint.
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06-25-2013, 05:58 PM
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#14
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Always Learning
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Four Corners, FL
Posts: 21,891
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RPAspey
So, what I've been doing is correct? All I've ever done is bleed thru the water system, as is the SOP with all trailer guides and other helpful manuals.
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It is, but I had an almost nasty surprise on our first camping trip out this year. My winterization valves were set to "winter" mode. It actually allowed cold water to come out of the faucets when the water heater was, in fact, empty. I almost turned on the heating element before fixing the bypass and filling it.
The only sure way for me to know is checking the pressure relief valve. I know do it every time before I flip the water heater switch.
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Officially a SOB with a 2022 Jayco Precept 36C
Checkout my site for RVing tips, tricks, and info | Was a Fulltime Family for 5 years, now we're part-timing on long trips
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06-28-2013, 09:26 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: central PA
Posts: 978
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since we moved to a NY state campground, there hasn't been any "burping" still using the FwTank, and pump, nothing different except the water we put in. I haven't purged anything. W T Heck. Nothing changed from our usual routine. oh well, if nothing changes from here on out, great.
Oh, 2 days of rain is trying to our friends who are tenting with us.
__________________
2000 Cherokee 29BH with 6V batteries, LED lights & 400 watts of solar power, flipped axles and raised. 2007 Tundra 5.7L DC-LB with lots of mods. C-co, 8/158th AVN Maint.
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