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06-26-2015, 08:26 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Mosgiel NZ
Posts: 81
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Anode in hot water tank
Not sure on this but is there a 12v Anode in the hot water tank to stop it rusting inside, the idea is to put a kill switch on the battery when the TT is parked up for a couple of months of none use, if there is an Anode and I do disconnect the power then the Anode will not do its job, the TT is an Coachmen Apex 22QBS(2014 model) Cheers
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06-26-2015, 08:30 PM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Goodyear, Arizona
Posts: 33,556
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Do you have a Suburban WH or an Atwood WH?
Surburban has an anode and the Atwood doesn't.
Anode is not there to prevent rust.
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06-26-2015, 08:34 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Ontario
Posts: 1,173
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Also Anode's aren't 12 volt powered just sacrificial.
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06-26-2015, 08:34 PM
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#4
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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The anode does NOT require any voltage to do its job.
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06-26-2015, 08:41 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Ontario
Posts: 1,173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot
The anode does NOT require any voltage to do its job.
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Beat you to the punch OC
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06-26-2015, 08:44 PM
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#6
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wana65stang
Beat you to the punch OC
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Getting slow in my old age.
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06-26-2015, 08:46 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Mosgiel NZ
Posts: 81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikendan
Do you have a Suburban WH or an Atwood WH?
Surburban has an anode and the Atwood doesn't.
Anode is not there to prevent rust.
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Its a Suburban water heater.
Found this, very interesting reading it, Thanks all for posts.
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pag...er-anodes.html
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06-26-2015, 08:57 PM
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#8
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by savi18
Its a Suburban gas water heater, so how does the Anode work.
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From: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_anode
A galvanic anode is the main component of a galvanic cathodic protection (CP) system used to protect buried or submerged metal structures from corrosion.
They are made from a metal alloy with a more "active" voltage (more negative reduction potential / more positive electrochemical potential) than the metal of the structure. The difference in potential between the two metals means that the galvanic anode corrodes, so that the anode material is consumed in preference to the structure.
The loss (or sacrifice) of the anode material gives rise to the alternative name of sacrificial anode.
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06-26-2015, 08:58 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Ontario
Posts: 1,173
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Go ahead OC you got the tech talk
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06-26-2015, 09:05 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Franklin County, MO
Posts: 2,652
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot
From: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_anode
A galvanic anode is the main component of a galvanic cathodic protection (CP) system used to protect buried or submerged metal structures from corrosion.
They are made from a metal alloy with a more "active" voltage (more negative reduction potential / more positive electrochemical potential) than the metal of the structure. The difference in potential between the two metals means that the galvanic anode corrodes, so that the anode material is consumed in preference to the structure.
The loss (or sacrifice) of the anode material gives rise to the alternative name of sacrificial anode.
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What OC said...The corrosion that might otherwise "eat up" the inside of the water heater tank instead "eats up" the sacrificial anode. Eventually, that anode will be eaten away to just a thin wire. before that happens and it is entirely gone, it should be replaced. 2 to 3 years seems like the average life of the anode before it needs to be changed, but it should be inspected at least once a year.
We now return you to "tech talk" with OldCoot
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06-27-2015, 04:35 AM
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#11
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Site Team - Lou
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 23,268
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Powered anode frequently asked questions
As far as I know, there is no RV water heater manufacturer that uses a "powered anode". Everyone uses a sacrificial anode (or none at all - aluminum tanks).
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06-27-2015, 05:22 AM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Mosgiel NZ
Posts: 81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herk7769
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Thanks for the reply, posted a link early in the post which explains it in detail, cheers
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06-27-2015, 11:53 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: West Atlanta Metro
Posts: 1,235
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If the RV is going to be parked for several months you should drain your WH tank. You will also need to do this when you winterize the RV. Just remove the anode with a 1 1/16" socket. Make sure you have released any pressure in the system, open the pressure relief valve, this will also let the tank drain faster, or you will get a unwanted bath. Also make sure your the power switch is turned off if you keep the RV hooked up to 110 power. It is located near he left bottom of the WH on the outside. It is a small black rocker switch. When you drain the tank it is a good time to flush it out and remove any of the particles that have came off of the anode rod, to prevent clogging the faucets, and replace the anode if necessary. You can get new ones from Walmart.com or Amazon.com for less than $10.
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06-27-2015, 01:33 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 103
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I believe the anodes are made of Magnesium. When its time to change it - it generally ends up with a bare rod and the remaining magnesium is still in the tank and must be flushed out. This is time consuming and wastes a lot of water.
I have since changed the water heater anode to zinc anodes and have little to no mess when replacing. The reasoning for changing is my boat is an inboard with a heat exchanger (basically a radiator) that is fitted with a zinc anode. It is in the same heat type environment that a water heater experiences. Actually, there are zinc anodes on the boat (aluminum), jet drive, and engine but I've never had to replace any of these - only on the heat exchanger.
Its just a suggestion. I have heard of folks on this forum getting chunks of the spent magnesium rod clogging their water line. They've managed to clear the clogs but why take the chance when there's a simple alternative.
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06-27-2015, 02:31 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Full timer,,,at Lake Georgetown in central Texas for the winter.
Posts: 442
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I check mine once a year....and not only for wear,,,,but,,,,to "exercise" the threads so the anode doesn't freeze at the thread point. I've seen them freeze up from the galvanic activity,,,,,and it's not easy to break the anode loose with your socket set without possible cracking the female section of the joint. A little teflon tape doesn't hurt either.
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06-27-2015, 04:19 PM
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#16
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Mosgiel NZ
Posts: 81
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Once a year a will check the Anode's and may be change to zinc rods. The water here in NZ is very good so my not wear the Anode's out as quickly as other countries. Cheer's
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06-27-2015, 10:12 PM
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#17
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Rockford, Illinois
Posts: 16
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I have a Suburban water heater that initially had a "magnesium" anode rod installed at the factory. I need to replace it now and have only been able to find the "aluminum" anode rod at the local stores. Is there any benefit to the magnesium vs the aluminum? I flush my water heater when I winterize at the end of each season and typically find a granular material in the heater that I assume is coming off the magnesium rod.
Thanks
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06-27-2015, 10:42 PM
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#18
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Just a member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Great White North
Posts: 921
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10Penny
Is there any benefit to the magnesium vs the aluminum?
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Indeed! Read the article at the link the OP provided in post #7.
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06-28-2015, 05:41 AM
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#19
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Site Team - Lou
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 23,268
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So, from a chemical perspective pure Magnesium is "hotter" than pure Aluminum; which is "hotter" than pure Zinc.
The composition of the anode is not "pure" metal; it is a molded alloy composed "mainly" of that material.
So if your water has a high Iron or Phosphate content, any of the three will "do the job" of keeping your tanks exposed steel (the parts around the openings as the majority of the tank is porcelain coated) corrosion (rust) free.
However, the "hotter" the anode material, the more reactive it is and the shorter its life in a similar solution of liquid. It is a waste of money to use a rod that is "hotter" than you need for the water you commonly encounter. Magnesium would by your only choice if you have an aluminum tank and "wanted" to use an anode. Aluminum tanks don't normally need one (unless an extreme amount of Phosphate is in your water) and one is not shipped with Atwood Aluminum tank heaters.
Alloying metals are less reactive than the main and will result in uneven wear of the anode rod.
This cratering of the rod can result in bits of anode rod falling off and will lay at the bottom of the tank and do no harm at all unless you drain your hot water tank through the low point drains and not the anode hole.
Of far greater concern is dissolved Calcium (from underlying rock strata in wells and a byproduct of water treatment in city water) in the water. When heated, that calcium deposits itself on the tank walls, bottom,anode, and heater element just like in a coffee pot; though in a coffee pot you can use vinegar to dissolve it. In a water heater you just flush it out with a water wand when you remove the anode to drain the unit and check the anode for wear annually.
Sediment from wells (VERY common in most areas of the country) will also "drop out" in your water tank's hot water. It will collect there causing no damage unless you drain the water heater through the low point drain and not the anode hole.
FYI - Cold water comes in at the BOTTOM of the tank and hot water comes out the top. That is why an old home water heater that has never been flushed can be half full of Calcium and Sediment and you would never know it (you would just have less and less hot water at shower time). This is a BIG DEAL in a 6 gallon water heater!)
ALWAYS close the winterization valves to drain your tank to inspect your RV's water heater before you remove the anode rod or repair an electric element. Forgetting can result in tank crud getting into your cold water pipes which can then find their way to the faucets or toilet tank valve as the water "glugs" and stirs up the bottom.
It goes without saying (but I will), never drain your hot water tank through the camper's low point drains. The repair bill you save will be your own.
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06-28-2015, 10:11 AM
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#20
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Rockford, Illinois
Posts: 16
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Thanks for the technical info and great advice!!
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