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Old 04-22-2016, 08:34 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by youroo View Post
On a Metal to Metal connection that Will be removed Many times in its Lifetime such as a A-Rod,USE Teflon Tape for a Good Seal and Lubricant! A Tapped pipe thread and a Die Cut pipe are a VERY "Pitted/Uneven" surface to Try to Seal! I have also laid a Lot of Pipe! Youroo!!
I have also laid a lot of Pipe !!!
LMAO !!!
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Old 04-22-2016, 08:45 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Wolverine 1945 View Post
I have also laid a lot of Pipe !!!
LMAO !!!
My pipes are hung, but then, I do lay a few.

Bruce
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Old 04-22-2016, 09:30 AM   #23
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I used a CAMCO water heater tool to clean out the crud in the Suburban water heater on my Sunseeker. Some dark stuff came out but I didn't see the calcium that has been mentioned in numerous posts. I sprayed water in the heater for about 5 minutes. Perhaps a layer of calcium is not always formed?



I also read to not tighten the anode rod too much but I am concerned that it is not in very far. I am attaching a photo showing the number of threads that did not enter the heater. The rod is tight, more than hand tight.



All comments are welcome.



bobby

I wonder if you have too much TT on that plug thread, there's no evidence of metal to metal contact, if none then no circuit can exist and no protective said will form. Rem different rod metals will react differently and have different shade salt. Magnesium(preferred by Suburban) and aluminum are widely available, but any must be connected to ground to work.
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Old 04-22-2016, 10:55 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by bareftn View Post
Question if it has no sealing capability then what is it its use by millions of people in water and gas lines ? I have even read many places that say to use it even in my new house I had built the heating guy and the plumber used it on all connections propane and water so I should have them come back and change it, just asking a question not saying your wrong
As a retired plumber, I can assure you I used either pipe dope or Teflon tape on every threaded joint.....it just eases the threading of the joint, making for a tight, leak free connection. Sorry, didn't mean to start a big thing. Also, "technically speaking," one should not apply either product to the first couple of threads to keep the "stuff" out of a potable water system...okay, I'm done!
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Old 04-22-2016, 11:24 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by VinceU View Post
I wonder if you have too much TT on that plug thread, there's no evidence of metal to metal contact, if none then no circuit can exist and no protective said will form. Rem different rod metals will react differently and have different shade salt. Magnesium(preferred by Suburban) and aluminum are widely available, but any must be connected to ground to work.
I will pull it out and make sure I have metal to metal contact

Thanks
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Old 04-22-2016, 11:26 AM   #26
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OK OK my head hurts, I have learned way to much today. Good info guys.
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