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04-18-2016, 05:16 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Media, PA
Posts: 2,930
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anode rod and WH questions
I used a CAMCO water heater tool to clean out the crud in the Suburban water heater on my Sunseeker. Some dark stuff came out but I didn't see the calcium that has been mentioned in numerous posts. I sprayed water in the heater for about 5 minutes. Perhaps a layer of calcium is not always formed?
I also read to not tighten the anode rod too much but I am concerned that it is not in very far. I am attaching a photo showing the number of threads that did not enter the heater. The rod is tight, more than hand tight.
All comments are welcome.
bobby
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2017 Dynamax REV 24RB
2018 Ford F-150
Formerly a 2013 Sunseeker 2250 SLEC.
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04-18-2016, 05:35 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Idaho
Posts: 2,058
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Mine does not thread in far either. Never had a leak.
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04-18-2016, 06:26 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 303
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I was just cleaning mine out for the first time too. I'm concerned about the rust on the female threads of the water heater tank itself. I expected the anode rod to rust, but should we be concerned about tank?
I see some in the OP's photo, and I think I have a little bit more.
Sorry for the hijack.
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2015 Surveyor 245BHS
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04-18-2016, 06:35 PM
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#4
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tragusa3
I was just cleaning mine out for the first time too. I'm concerned about the rust on the female threads of the water heater tank itself. I expected the anode rod to rust, but should we be concerned about tank?
I see some in the OP's photo, and I think I have a little bit more.
Sorry for the hijack.
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You can borrow or buy a 3/4"NPT pipe tap or chaser and clean it or a clean round wire brush.
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04-18-2016, 06:41 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Media, PA
Posts: 2,930
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f5moab
Mine does not thread in far either. Never had a leak.
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My runaway imagination had me concerned that the rod could blow out like a missle.
__________________
2017 Dynamax REV 24RB
2018 Ford F-150
Formerly a 2013 Sunseeker 2250 SLEC.
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04-18-2016, 06:46 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Media, PA
Posts: 2,930
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tragusa3
I was just cleaning mine out for the first time too. I'm concerned about the rust on the female threads of the water heater tank itself. I expected the anode rod to rust, but should we be concerned about tank?
I see some in the OP's photo, and I think I have a little bit more.
Sorry for the hijack.
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I used a small wire brush that I bought at Walmart. Someone made off with my wire brush that was like a tooth brush. The walmart one worked but the bristles were a little bit larger and it has a crown of bristles on the upper side so it didn't fit in the hole as well as I hoped. But it got the job done.
__________________
2017 Dynamax REV 24RB
2018 Ford F-150
Formerly a 2013 Sunseeker 2250 SLEC.
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04-18-2016, 06:46 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 7,053
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The less it has to be turned in to be tight, the better off you are. Each time you tighten the anode or any other NPT thread, you expand the female threads. It may not be noticeable, but the female portion does become larger and larger. After a few years, you may notice you have no male threads showing at all, and eventually it can get to the point where you can't get it tight enough.
Bruce
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04-18-2016, 06:52 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Media, PA
Posts: 2,930
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nomad297
The less it has to be turned in to be tight, the better off you are. Each time you tighten the anode or any other NPT thread, you expand the female threads. It may not be noticeable, but the female portion does become larger and larger. After a few years, you may notice you have no male threads showing at all, and eventually it can get to the point where you can't get it tight enough.
Bruce
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Now I'm worried that I made it too tight.
__________________
2017 Dynamax REV 24RB
2018 Ford F-150
Formerly a 2013 Sunseeker 2250 SLEC.
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04-18-2016, 07:52 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 303
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Using a wire brush or pipe tap are good suggestions, thanks, but I wonder how long I can go through that process before the fitting can't be cleaned up? At the rate it seems to rust, I wonder if it would make it 8-10 years?
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2013 F150, EBoost,4x4,CC, MaxTow
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04-18-2016, 08:03 PM
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#10
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tragusa3
Using a wire brush or pipe tap are good suggestions, thanks, but I wonder how long I can go through that process before the fitting can't be cleaned up? At the rate it seems to rust, I wonder if it would make it 8-10 years?
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Me thinks you are worrying about something that doesn't need to be worried about. Use Teflon tape or pipe dope and it won't rust as much. Regardless ,quit worrying about it.
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04-19-2016, 05:56 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 303
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okay.
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2013 F150, EBoost,4x4,CC, MaxTow
2015 Surveyor 245BHS
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04-19-2016, 08:56 PM
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#12
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Jack of All Trades
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Williston, Florida
Posts: 317
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The anode is a NPT (National Pipe Thread) which is a tapered thread. If you look closely at the thread, the diameter is smaller at the inside end then at the cap end. The female end is the same
A NPT thread works by wedging the threads together. You should never try to get the cap to thread all the way in - that will damage the thread and/or the plug and female part.
The proper way to insert the anode is to put two to three wraps of Teflon thread sealer, or a layer of pipe dope, on the male threads, insert the anode rod and tighten by hand. Then, using a 1-1/16" socket and ratchet or a breaker bar, tighten between 1/4 an 3/4 turns. Then fill and pressurize the water heater. If it doesn't leak, you're done. If it does leak, tighten slowely until it stops leaking. For long life of the threads and fittings, you want the plug just tight enough to seal the joint - anything more can lead to damage.
As far as the anode rod blowing out, if you have one or two turns initially the anode rod will not blow out at the pressures seen in an RV!
(I've been doing industrial piping for many years, with threaded fittings upto 4" - I know what I'm talking about.)
Rick
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04-19-2016, 09:29 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Media, PA
Posts: 2,930
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Good explanation, I wish I knew this a few days ago. I don't recall how much of a turn I made with the wrench but I know I was trying to be conservative in my efforts.
I will print out your explanation and save it, maybe laminate it for storage in the heater compartment.
Thanks.
Bobby
__________________
2017 Dynamax REV 24RB
2018 Ford F-150
Formerly a 2013 Sunseeker 2250 SLEC.
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04-20-2016, 05:21 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: austinburg ohio
Posts: 821
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I just flushed mine and installed a new rod it only takes a few turns like 3-4 and then its tight and you will have more threads showing so don't worry about it, it wont become a rocket
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04-20-2016, 07:49 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: SouthWest Michigan
Posts: 5,977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot
Me thinks you are worrying about something that doesn't need to be worried about. Use Teflon tape or pipe dope and it won't rust as much. Regardless ,quit worrying about it.
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X2 OC !!!
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04-21-2016, 11:04 PM
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#16
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RetiredRVer
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Ohio
Posts: 264
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Technically, neither Teflon tape or pipe dope are thread sealers, but merely thread lubricants. Both products are fine for the anode rod install, as they make it much easier to thread the rod into the tank. Pipe dope is probably the best of the two, as it has solvents that evaporate and allow the dope to harden, making it a better sealant. Teflon does not adhere to the threads when one installs the rod into the tank, thereby providing no sealing capability. Just my professional opinion. (Retired plumber.)
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04-22-2016, 04:23 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: austinburg ohio
Posts: 821
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Quote:
Originally Posted by checkmate99
Technically, neither Teflon tape or pipe dope are thread sealers, but merely thread lubricants. Both products are fine for the anode rod install, as they make it much easier to thread the rod into the tank. Pipe dope is probably the best of the two, as it has solvents that evaporate and allow the dope to harden, making it a better sealant. Teflon does not adhere to the threads when one installs the rod into the tank, thereby providing no sealing capability. Just my professional opinion. (Retired plumber.)
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Question if it has no sealing capability then what is it its use by millions of people in water and gas lines ? I have even read many places that say to use it even in my new house I had built the heating guy and the plumber used it on all connections propane and water so I should have them come back and change it, just asking a question not saying your wrong
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04-22-2016, 05:29 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Waynesville
Posts: 14,428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bareftn
Question if it has no sealing capability then what is it its use by millions of people in water and gas lines ? I have even read many places that say to use it even in my new house I had built the heating guy and the plumber used it on all connections propane and water so I should have them come back and change it, just asking a question not saying your wrong
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You are correct, Thread Seal Tape is listed as such,but Yellow is for Gas line use,white for general plumbing! Youroo!!
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04-22-2016, 05:35 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 7,053
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Quote:
Originally Posted by checkmate99
Technically, neither Teflon tape or pipe dope are thread sealers, but merely thread lubricants. Both products are fine for the anode rod install, as they make it much easier to thread the rod into the tank. Pipe dope is probably the best of the two, as it has solvents that evaporate and allow the dope to harden, making it a better sealant. Teflon does not adhere to the threads when one installs the rod into the tank, thereby providing no sealing capability. Just my professional opinion. (Retired plumber.)
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See? This guy knows what he's talking about. If you HAVE TO use Teflon tape or pipe dope to seal a NPT thread, there is a problem with your threads. Using Teflon and pipe dope is standard practice in plumbing to make things go together easier, but I have run across cases where bad threads were "hidden" by copious amounts of dope and/or tape. The joint may appear to seal today, but sometime from the day of installation to fifty years later, that joint is going to leak and I will usually be rewarded with a time-consuming job of taking apart an entire gas pipe system or heat system just to get to that one bad joint that was "hidden" by tape and/or dope by a lazy plumber. You should never try to use Teflon tape, pipe dope or a combination of the two on a leaking NPT thread.
I use no tape or dope on my anode rod.
Bruce
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2016 Rockwood Windjammer 3029W Diamond Edition
2015 Chevy 3500HD LTZ 6.0 Crew Cab 4x4 Long Bed 4.10:1 SRW
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04-22-2016, 05:51 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Waynesville
Posts: 14,428
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On a Metal to Metal connection that Will be removed Many times in its Lifetime such as a A-Rod,USE Teflon Tape for a Good Seal and Lubricant! A Tapped pipe thread and a Die Cut pipe are a VERY "Pitted/Uneven" surface to Try to Seal! I have also laid a Lot of Pipe! Youroo!!
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