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Old 03-23-2014, 06:46 PM   #11
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Don't think I'd use a torch around there for fear of setting something on fire behind the sheet metal housing.
I can see that, but if the heat is applied to warm not red hot?
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Old 03-23-2014, 06:50 PM   #12
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I'd just soak it with WD40 for a week, try the 6pt socket, extension and breaker bar and if that didn't work, drill it out and re-tap. In fact, I'd just drill it out and re-tap it to begin with if the socket, extension and breaker didn't work even before the WD 40.
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Old 03-23-2014, 07:09 PM   #13
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From your picture - ifs that's any indication of what the rest of the WH condition might be (inside and out and where you can't see) I would seriously consider just replacing the entire WH and be done with it.
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Old 03-23-2014, 07:14 PM   #14
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From your picture - ifs that's any indication of what the rest of the WH condition might be (inside and out and where you can't see) I would seriously consider just replacing the entire WH and be done with it.
I'd have to try removing and re-tapping just for the challenge.
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Old 03-23-2014, 07:15 PM   #15
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From your picture - ifs that's any indication of what the rest of the WH condition might be (inside and out and where you can't see) I would seriously consider just replacing the entire WH and be done with it.
The rest of the wh doesn't look toooooo bad but you're probably right. I don't want to chase problems on this thing. What about replacing it with a home wh? Have any of yall tried this?
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Old 03-23-2014, 07:28 PM   #16
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I'd have to try removing and re-tapping just for the challenge.
That's certainly an option - I would just suggest trying to removing and re-tapping it AFTER the old WH is removed and the new WH is installed. That way after you have cussed up a blue streak for even trying,you can simply look at the newly installed new WH as you walk by it on the way to the garbage can to throw the old WH in.
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Old 03-23-2014, 07:33 PM   #17
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That would have to be a (Short)W/H! I would try the (Soak & Remove & Retap)first. Then I would turn off the rear bypass valves and Put (40PSI) Air pressure in the tank thru a (3/4NPT bushing to a 1/4 Air quick dis.) that way if you have a Leak you can hear it and NO Water mess to clean up! Youroo!!
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Old 03-23-2014, 07:47 PM   #18
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My Park model doesn't even have a anode rod, the Atwood came with a plastic plug. That would be an option if the threads are all mess up. It doesn't owe you anything and if it rots no big deal.

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Old 03-24-2014, 09:58 AM   #19
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I got the anode out, this is what it looks like. Apparently it was never changed. Surprisingly enough, the threads aren't that bad. The problem is this thing was completely full of calcium (hard water) and when I went to flush it I noticed from the inside of the camper there's a small leak coming from under the wh somewhere. Looks like I'm going to have to pull it out anyway to see if I can find it.
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Old 03-24-2014, 10:00 AM   #20
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If I pull the wh and put pressure on it to find the leak, how much air pressure should I apply?
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