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03-23-2014, 05:50 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 19
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anode tap rusted out... replace with?
I just bought a used 2007 Cherokee camper knowing that the water heater needed repaired or replaced, it's an sw6de. The anode rod tap is completely rusted out (previous owner said it was leaking) My questions 1. Is there any way to repair this? 2. If not, would it be wise to replace with the much cheaper (electric only) 6 gallon water heater found at lowes? And lastly, if I replace it with the oem water heater, is this a tough job? I'm somewhat mechanically incline and it looks easy enough... thanks for any help!
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03-23-2014, 05:57 PM
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#2
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Are you saying the fitting the anode screws into is gone or that the anode is rusted thru and needs removing? How about a picture?
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03-23-2014, 06:07 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 19
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Sorry.. it's the fitting that the anode screws into. Still trying to figure out how to post pics from my cell phone.
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03-23-2014, 06:14 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 19
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pic
Pic
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03-23-2014, 06:17 PM
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#5
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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I think you could drill it out and re-tap with a 3/4"NPT tap. I'd try to get the anode out first with a 1-1/16' 6pt socket, 6" extension and a breaker bar.
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03-23-2014, 06:19 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Ottawa Ontario Canada
Posts: 930
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thats scary ... new water heater time .. if you need it ..
d-mo
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2008 Nissan Frontier 4x4
2011 Rockwood A122
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03-23-2014, 06:22 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Idaho
Posts: 9,839
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I would soak that thing with Navy Jell or something for like a month and then I would heat it up before trying to move it with a LOOONNNGG bar.
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2016 F350 6.7L LB CC Reese 28K 2014 Chaparral Lite 266sab
"Those who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety." 2014 19 days camping 2015 17 days camping201620 days camping
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03-23-2014, 06:23 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 19
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I'll take the anode out to see what I'm dealing with. Thanks. I'm thinking new water heater also. Just wanted to get opinions before I shell out $350
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03-23-2014, 06:26 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Idaho
Posts: 9,839
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Do you know if there is an RV salvage outfit in your area?
Might get a good deal and save a few bucks while you are at it.
__________________
2016 F350 6.7L LB CC Reese 28K 2014 Chaparral Lite 266sab
"Those who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety." 2014 19 days camping 2015 17 days camping201620 days camping
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03-23-2014, 06:34 PM
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#10
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ford Idaho
I would soak that thing with Navy Jell or something for like a month and then I would heat it up before trying to move it with a LOOONNNGG bar.
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Don't think I'd use a torch around there for fear of setting something on fire behind the sheet metal housing.
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03-23-2014, 06:46 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Idaho
Posts: 9,839
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot
Don't think I'd use a torch around there for fear of setting something on fire behind the sheet metal housing.
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I can see that, but if the heat is applied to warm not red hot?
__________________
2016 F350 6.7L LB CC Reese 28K 2014 Chaparral Lite 266sab
"Those who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety." 2014 19 days camping 2015 17 days camping201620 days camping
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03-23-2014, 06:50 PM
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#12
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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I'd just soak it with WD40 for a week, try the 6pt socket, extension and breaker bar and if that didn't work, drill it out and re-tap. In fact, I'd just drill it out and re-tap it to begin with if the socket, extension and breaker didn't work even before the WD 40.
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03-23-2014, 07:09 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Keller, Texas
Posts: 6,090
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From your picture - ifs that's any indication of what the rest of the WH condition might be (inside and out and where you can't see) I would seriously consider just replacing the entire WH and be done with it.
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03-23-2014, 07:14 PM
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#14
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B47
From your picture - ifs that's any indication of what the rest of the WH condition might be (inside and out and where you can't see) I would seriously consider just replacing the entire WH and be done with it.
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I'd have to try removing and re-tapping just for the challenge. 
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03-23-2014, 07:15 PM
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#15
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B47
From your picture - ifs that's any indication of what the rest of the WH condition might be (inside and out and where you can't see) I would seriously consider just replacing the entire WH and be done with it.
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The rest of the wh doesn't look toooooo bad but you're probably right. I don't want to chase problems on this thing. What about replacing it with a home wh? Have any of yall tried this?
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03-23-2014, 07:28 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Keller, Texas
Posts: 6,090
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot
I'd have to try removing and re-tapping just for the challenge. |
That's certainly an option - I would just suggest trying to removing and re-tapping it AFTER the old WH is removed and the new WH is installed. That way after you have cussed up a blue streak for even trying,you can simply look at the newly installed new WH as you walk by it on the way to the garbage can to throw the old WH in.
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03-23-2014, 07:33 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Waynesville
Posts: 14,428
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That would have to be a (Short)W/H! I would try the (Soak & Remove & Retap)first. Then I would turn off the rear bypass valves and Put (40PSI) Air pressure in the tank thru a (3/4NPT bushing to a 1/4 Air quick dis.) that way if you have a Leak you can hear it and NO Water mess to clean up!  Youroo!! 
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03-23-2014, 07:47 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 10,833
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My Park model doesn't even have a anode rod, the Atwood came with a plastic plug. That would be an option if the threads are all mess up. It doesn't owe you anything and if it rots no big deal.
Brian
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B and B
2022 Venture RV SportTrek STT 302 VRB Travel Trailer
2018 Heartland Landmark 365 Louisville 5th Wheel
2015 Heartland Bighorn 5th Wheel
2013 FR Rockwood 8289WS 5th Wheel
2012 FR Rockwood 2703 SS Travel Trailer
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03-24-2014, 09:58 AM
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#19
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 19
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I got the anode out, this is what it looks like. Apparently it was never changed. Surprisingly enough, the threads aren't that bad. The problem is this thing was completely full of calcium (hard water) and when I went to flush it I noticed from the inside of the camper there's a small leak coming from under the wh somewhere. Looks like I'm going to have to pull it out anyway to see if I can find it.
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03-24-2014, 10:00 AM
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#20
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 19
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If I pull the wh and put pressure on it to find the leak, how much air pressure should I apply?
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