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Old 11-13-2013, 08:25 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by tomjsas View Post
That's about as thin as i've seen one!
What you are seeing is the steel center wire that supports the anode material and NOT the anode material (which is GONE).

Here are pictures of new ones to compare.
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Old 11-13-2013, 08:46 AM   #12
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You can cut a washing machine hose in half and get 2 "flush out" hoses.
Since the water heater tank is round on the bottom (not flat like
a home water heater) most of the debris is in one pile. I get pretty
good flush out with just a cut piece of hose. OR buy a flusher probe
like others have suggested. You don't have to get every speck out.
I guarantee your home water heater has WAY more junk in it than your
RV will after just a hose flush out...
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Old 11-13-2013, 08:57 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Iwannacamp View Post
Wmtire.. The tank was full and belched out "kitty litter" as it was draining. There is a lot of that anode material on the trailer, tire, ground etc I thought I would bring over the hose and back flush before I reinstall. It was pretty bad.


The 'kitty litter' is calcium deposits and not completely from the rod. 'Flushing' will only get a certain amount out of the tank as there is a lip on it. A shop vac with a modified attachment will suck out a lot more and not have a mess running down the side of the TT.
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Old 11-13-2013, 06:56 PM   #14
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Thanks to this forum for reminding me I had never been charged for a new rod! As you can see I needed a new one last year... Flush out went well but dang there was a lot of 'stuff' in tank!
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Old 11-15-2013, 09:03 PM   #15
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How do you get one out when they appear to be rusted in without damaging waterheater?
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Old 11-15-2013, 09:12 PM   #16
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Soak the threads with Liquid Wrench then try and remove it using a lot of muscle. To prevent this from happening in the future, make sure you remove and inspect annually and reinsert after you've wrapped with teflon tape.
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Old 11-15-2013, 09:19 PM   #17
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How do you get one out when they appear to be rusted in without damaging waterheater?
A hammer, wd-40 and time.
Tap the rod with a hammer, spray with WD wait for 15-20 min and repeat.
After the second go around try to remove the rod.
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Old 11-15-2013, 09:28 PM   #18
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How do you get one out when they appear to be rusted in without damaging waterheater?
Apply a penetrating oil as Lloyd suggested.
WAIT for about an hour and tap the anode lightly with a hammer.
The goal is to work the OIL into the rust bound threads, NOT break it loose.
If you hit it too hard you can break the porcelain liner inside the tank.

RE apply the penetrating oil, wait another hour and tap (repeat several times).

Using a CORRECTLY sized ( 1 1/16 inch) socket and a long breaker bar or impact wrench try to remove the anode. It should come out.

If not, you could try drilling it out but you will need to use great care that the drill does not come in contact with the threads. Failing this replacement may be your only option.

Obviously, prevention of this situation is preferred.
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Old 11-18-2013, 12:49 PM   #19
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I sprayed it with penetrating oil twice and let it work it's magic for about an hour. I used a socket/ratchet and it came off without a problem. I did not want to use a hammer or breaker bar to start as I thought it would cause damage. I got lucky in this case but I suspect a new water heater is in my future.
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Old 11-18-2013, 12:53 PM   #20
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I sprayed it with penetrating oil twice and let it work it's magic for about an hour. I used a socket/ratchet and it came off without a problem. I did not want to use a hammer or breaker bar to start as I thought it would cause damage. I got lucky in this case but I suspect a new water heater is in my future.
I doubt it if you are basing that on just the anode being gone.
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