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11-12-2013, 11:08 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 7,916
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Anode time??
Dang...this is from a 3 year old trailer. I guess it never got drained. I wonder if I can get another season out of this one?
__________________
2017 Puma 297RLSS
2005 Ram 2500 4X4 diesel SMOKER!!
I love puns, irony and tasteless jokes...
born in Texas.... live in Arkansas
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11-12-2013, 11:31 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Northern Colorado
Posts: 508
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That's about as thin as i've seen one!
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Tom
2004 Fleetwood Providence 38U
currently not towing a toad
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11-13-2013, 12:15 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Yuba City, CA
Posts: 146
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Now you have me thinking... I've asked the dealer to check mine every year but I have never been charged for one. So I guess I'll break out some tools and see if I can find a breaker bar tomorrow.
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11-13-2013, 04:21 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Eastlake, Ohio
Posts: 463
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I would replace it every year. They are pretty cheap and will save your hot water tank.
__________________
2014 Wildwood 300BH
2014 Ford Explorer XLT
2011 Ford F350 FX4
Eastlake, OH
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11-13-2013, 04:33 AM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,738
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iwannacamp
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Yes you can, as long as your season consists of never filling up your heater with water.
I agree with tomjsas, that's one of the most depleted rods I've seen.
Did you go ahead and flush out the heater, to boot?
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2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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11-13-2013, 07:00 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Western Connecticut
Posts: 1,587
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That anode rod is done. There's no sacrificial material left. It did it's job fosho.
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2010 Cedar Creek 5th Wheel 34SATS "The Beast"
2006 Ford F350 Lariat 6.0L Diesel
2003 Harley Heritage Softail "Hogzilla"
1986 Marriage to "Wifey" (patience of a saint)
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11-13-2013, 07:20 AM
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#7
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 10,518
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastlakeRoo
I would replace it every year. They are pretty cheap and will save your hot water tank.
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Of course you can replace it every year but if it's not eaten away
at the end of the season, (as most won't be in just one year) you're wasting
your money.
My 2¢
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Peace!
Dan & Rita D
2017 Nissan Titan 5.6L King cab 4wd
2016 Evergreen Everlite 242RBS
29' empty nest model. Blue Ox WD hitch
(1 queen bed, large main cabin and huge bathroom)
Camping days 2010-53, 2011-47, 2012-41, 2013-41, 2014-31, 2015-40, 2016-44, 2017-63, 2018-75, 2019-32, 2020-41, 2021-49, 2022-43, 2023-66
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11-13-2013, 07:50 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 7,916
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Wmtire.. The tank was full and belched out "kitty litter" as it was draining. There is a lot of that anode material on the trailer, tire, ground etc I thought I would bring over the hose and back flush before I reinstall. It was pretty bad.
__________________
2017 Puma 297RLSS
2005 Ram 2500 4X4 diesel SMOKER!!
I love puns, irony and tasteless jokes...
born in Texas.... live in Arkansas
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11-13-2013, 07:56 AM
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#9
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Always Learning
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Four Corners, FL
Posts: 21,890
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iwannacamp
Wmtire.. The tank was full and belched out "kitty litter" as it was draining. There is a lot of that anode material on the trailer, tire, ground etc I thought I would bring over the hose and back flush before I reinstall. It was pretty bad.
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Is definitely flush out as much as you can. For a few bucks, you can buy a wand flushing tool (Camco makes a knock off). Or, I think OldCoot fashioned up some kind of crazy vacuum for his.
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Officially a SOB with a 2022 Jayco Precept 36C
Checkout my site for RVing tips, tricks, and info | Was a Fulltime Family for 5 years, now we're part-timing on long trips
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11-13-2013, 08:22 AM
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#10
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Site Team - Lou
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 23,268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iwannacamp
Dang...this is from a 3 year old trailer. I guess it never got drained. I wonder if I can get another season out of this one?
Attachment 42552
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He said "tongue in cheek"...
That one is shot as you know.
Here is the replacement guide for anyone else.
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Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
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11-13-2013, 08:25 AM
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#11
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Site Team - Lou
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 23,268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomjsas
That's about as thin as i've seen one!
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What you are seeing is the steel center wire that supports the anode material and NOT the anode material (which is GONE).
Here are pictures of new ones to compare.
__________________
Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
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11-13-2013, 08:46 AM
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#12
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 10,518
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You can cut a washing machine hose in half and get 2 "flush out" hoses.
Since the water heater tank is round on the bottom (not flat like
a home water heater) most of the debris is in one pile. I get pretty
good flush out with just a cut piece of hose. OR buy a flusher probe
like others have suggested. You don't have to get every speck out.
I guarantee your home water heater has WAY more junk in it than your
RV will after just a hose flush out...
__________________
Peace!
Dan & Rita D
2017 Nissan Titan 5.6L King cab 4wd
2016 Evergreen Everlite 242RBS
29' empty nest model. Blue Ox WD hitch
(1 queen bed, large main cabin and huge bathroom)
Camping days 2010-53, 2011-47, 2012-41, 2013-41, 2014-31, 2015-40, 2016-44, 2017-63, 2018-75, 2019-32, 2020-41, 2021-49, 2022-43, 2023-66
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11-13-2013, 08:57 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: BoCoMo
Posts: 2,784
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iwannacamp
Wmtire.. The tank was full and belched out "kitty litter" as it was draining. There is a lot of that anode material on the trailer, tire, ground etc I thought I would bring over the hose and back flush before I reinstall. It was pretty bad.
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The 'kitty litter' is calcium deposits and not completely from the rod. 'Flushing' will only get a certain amount out of the tank as there is a lip on it. A shop vac with a modified attachment will suck out a lot more and not have a mess running down the side of the TT.
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Brother Les
2013 Forest River Salem Hemisphere SBT312QBUD
2001 CrewCab F-250 7.3 PowerStroke Diesel
SuperChip, BTS transmission, 6.0 Trans Cooler
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11-13-2013, 06:56 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Yuba City, CA
Posts: 146
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Thanks to this forum for reminding me I had never been charged for a new rod! As you can see I needed a new one last year... Flush out went well but dang there was a lot of 'stuff' in tank!
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11-15-2013, 09:03 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,443
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How do you get one out when they appear to be rusted in without damaging waterheater?
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11-15-2013, 09:12 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 710
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Soak the threads with Liquid Wrench then try and remove it using a lot of muscle. To prevent this from happening in the future, make sure you remove and inspect annually and reinsert after you've wrapped with teflon tape.
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Heartland Big Country 3150RL
2013 Ford SD F250 4x4 SC; 6.2
Reese 18K Elite w/slider - Rockford, Michigan
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11-15-2013, 09:19 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Idaho
Posts: 9,839
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark0224
How do you get one out when they appear to be rusted in without damaging waterheater?
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A hammer, wd-40 and time.
Tap the rod with a hammer, spray with WD wait for 15-20 min and repeat.
After the second go around try to remove the rod.
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2016 F350 6.7L LB CC Reese 28K 2014 Chaparral Lite 266sab
"Those who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety." 2014 19 days camping 2015 17 days camping201620 days camping
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11-15-2013, 09:28 PM
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#18
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Site Team - Lou
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 23,268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark0224
How do you get one out when they appear to be rusted in without damaging waterheater?
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Apply a penetrating oil as Lloyd suggested.
WAIT for about an hour and tap the anode lightly with a hammer.
The goal is to work the OIL into the rust bound threads, NOT break it loose.
If you hit it too hard you can break the porcelain liner inside the tank.
RE apply the penetrating oil, wait another hour and tap (repeat several times).
Using a CORRECTLY sized ( 1 1/16 inch) socket and a long breaker bar or impact wrench try to remove the anode. It should come out.
If not, you could try drilling it out but you will need to use great care that the drill does not come in contact with the threads. Failing this replacement may be your only option.
Obviously, prevention of this situation is preferred.
__________________
Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
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11-18-2013, 12:49 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Yuba City, CA
Posts: 146
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I sprayed it with penetrating oil twice and let it work it's magic for about an hour. I used a socket/ratchet and it came off without a problem. I did not want to use a hammer or breaker bar to start as I thought it would cause damage. I got lucky in this case but I suspect a new water heater is in my future.
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11-18-2013, 12:53 PM
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#20
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiefly1
I sprayed it with penetrating oil twice and let it work it's magic for about an hour. I used a socket/ratchet and it came off without a problem. I did not want to use a hammer or breaker bar to start as I thought it would cause damage. I got lucky in this case but I suspect a new water heater is in my future.
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I doubt it if you are basing that on just the anode being gone.
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