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Old 04-02-2018, 10:14 AM   #1
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Another weird water heater problem

I've searched the forum and as many internet sites I can find but can not find a solution. I have a 2015 Coachmen Chapperal 360IBL with an Atwood #GC10A-4E water heater.
About 3 days ago we noticed that the hot water was scalding hot. A short time after that, the pressure relief valve popped on the water heater and was gushing water. I went to the control panel and the DSI fault light was on so I turned the water heater off at the control panel. It had been running on electric.
After research, I replaced the ECO thermostats and still had scalding hot water. Now the really weird part is that it kept heating water on electric even though the switch was off. The only way I could get it to stop heating was to turn the breaker off. Now I have been running it on propane for 3 days and it works fine.
If you have had a similar issue, I would really appreciate some input as to a solution. My biggest concern is that it keeps heating on the electric side when the control panel switch is off. Thanks in advance!
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Old 04-02-2018, 10:21 AM   #2
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Old 04-06-2018, 12:55 PM   #3
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Old 04-06-2018, 04:58 PM   #4
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Here is the service manual for Atwood water heaters.

Looking on page 25, the switch operates a relay to turn on the electric heating element. I would guess that there could be one of three things that could happen.
1. The switch could be bad and stuck in the "ON" position.
2. The relay could be bad and stuck in the "ON" position.
3. The control board could be bad and not allowing the thermostat to turn off the heating element.

The switch would be the easiest to check. Then if you can get where you can test the relay with a volt meter, have someone turn the switch on/off to see if there is voltage at the coil. If the relay has a clear cover on it maybe you can watch it activate.

Other than these suggestions you might have to contact Atwood or have a RV repair service look at it.
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File Type: pdf Atwood-Water-Heater-Service.pdf (981.0 KB, 27 views)
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Old 04-06-2018, 06:57 PM   #5
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Thanks!

Thank you Scrapper! That is all very good information. I will check it out in the next few days and let you know what I found out. Especially thanks for the Atwood PDF.
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Old 04-10-2018, 02:17 PM   #6
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Another question

Hey, Scrapper, I really do appreciate your help. I finally got time today to check the 3 things you suggested. The on/off switch is working properly. I am getting 12 volts to the relay connection at the control board, but I can not find the actual relay to test it. The only place I can't get to is the 110v connection because my water heater is in the basement and I would have to remove the whole thing to get behind it. Is the relay possibly close to the 110 input behind the heater?
Thanks again!
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Old 04-10-2018, 06:07 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goferbroke View Post
Hey, Scrapper, I really do appreciate your help. I finally got time today to check the 3 things you suggested. The on/off switch is working properly. I am getting 12 volts to the relay connection at the control board, but I can not find the actual relay to test it. The only place I can't get to is the 110v connection because my water heater is in the basement and I would have to remove the whole thing to get behind it. Is the relay possibly close to the 110 input behind the heater?
Thanks again!
I'm sorry I can't really answer that question. I had to look at the manual and according to the drawing it looks like it is separate. Look on page 35 for it's location. It is on the back side at the bottom of the tank. It looks as though it is sealed. The parts list shows Not Shown but it gives a part number as 93849.


I have a Suburban WH. The only reason I had the Atwood service manual was I downloaded it to help a friend at the campground.
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Old 04-16-2018, 01:08 PM   #8
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Update

Scrapper, here is an update to the over heating problem. I finally got a few hours to take a closer look, checked all connections, disconnected and put back together. I also reset the air gap in the tank per Atwood's instructions. After a few days of running on propane with no problem, I switched back to electric. So far for 3 days now, it is running properly (knock on wood). No scalding and no pop offs popping. I still don't know for sure what was wrong, but I'm thinking it had to do with an improper air gap in the tank. For those interested, here is the air gap setting procedure:
1. Shut water off at the spigot, turn water heater off and drain the tank.
2. Open the pop off valve and turn spigot back on.
3. As soon as water starts to come out of pop off valve, turn water off and close pop off.
4. Turn water back on and turn water heater back on.

Again, thanks for your help!
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Old 04-16-2018, 04:52 PM   #9
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Glad you got it working. Now, go forth and enjoy.
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