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Old 10-02-2008, 06:16 PM   #1
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Another Winterizing Question

1. I used my factory installed pump kit to get the antifreeze right from the bottle after turning the "T" valve to get to the jug of antifreeze. My question is should I leave the "T" valve where I just turned it to get the antifreeze or turn it back to where it was when I got the trailer, I guess that was for normal working conditions.

2. I poured antifreeze down each drain and left about a cup in the toilet. Should I put the sink caps in (like you would to fill the sinks) and put antifreeze there so it covers the caps? I hope you know what I mean.. So there is about a cup of antifreeze in the sinks because the caps locked it from going down the drain.
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Old 10-02-2008, 06:26 PM   #2
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1: leave the T where you set it to load the anti-freeze

2: no drain caps in the sinks. but do dump some anti-freeze down the sinks to fill the P traps. don't forget the shower
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Old 10-03-2008, 05:22 PM   #3
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I'm not sure if I agree with leaving the "T" in the bypass position. If you put it in the original position after winterizing, all you have to do in the spring is fill the tank with fresh water and run the pump to clear out the lines of anti-freeze.

If you were to leave the "T" in the bypass position, you will pump air through your lines until you figure out that you forgot to switch the bypass back to normal.
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Old 10-03-2008, 09:22 PM   #4
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I'm not sure if I agree with leaving the "T" in the bypass position. If you put it in the original position after winterizing, all you have to do in the spring is fill the tank with fresh water and run the pump to clear out the lines of anti-freeze.

If you were to leave the "T" in the bypass position, you will pump air through your lines until you figure out that you forgot to switch the bypass back to normal.
I leave the "T" in the bypass position every year and promptly forget it in the spring when I de-winterize. Takes a minute or two to remember and then I switch it. I don't think it matters either way.
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Old 10-08-2008, 10:27 AM   #5
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I left mine in the bypass position this weekend after winterizing it at the campground. I figure that it's better to have antifreeze at the pump intake then to have what little water is left from the water tank flow back and sit at the pump.

This was my first time doing the bypass thing with the antifreeze bottle and i have to say, that was one pain in the butt. Keeping the hose straight and the bottle tilted without falling over so that I didnt get air in the lines was just a pain. Im half tempted to get one of those windshield washer fluid bottles and mount it under the seats by the pump and mount the hose onto it so that i can just pour the antifreeze into it and let gravity do the work. Has anybody done this or something similar? I think i had to stop the pump and prime the hose 3-4 times while i was doing it and Yea...i'm done with that method.
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Old 10-08-2008, 06:46 PM   #6
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Ok my trailer is all set for winter. I am going to leave the T valve set to the bypass position. The plastic container that holds the filter (which I took out before I added the antifreeze). However, the plastic container is still in place full of antifreeze... Is it safe to leave that in all winter or should I remove it and dump that canister down the drains?
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Old 10-08-2008, 07:51 PM   #7
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good to go as is. everything will get sanitized and cleaned out once spring hits anyway.

time to ready the firewood...
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Old 10-08-2008, 07:56 PM   #8
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I do mine differant, after I drain everything then I remove the cylinder and dump the water out and then reinstall it and blow the lines out with air then remove the cylinder again and dump the access water out then reinstall the cylinder for the final time with no filter, then pour anti-freeze in any sink and bath tub that has a trap and I leave all hot and cold faucets open a long with the out side shower. As far as your question about the anti-freeze in the cylinder, I would remove most of it if not all of it. I can not see why it would have to be full, but that's my opinion. I am sure that there is a member on this Forum that winterizes with anti-freeze and they my have a better reply.
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Old 10-08-2008, 09:00 PM   #9
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I guess what I meant was, is it ok to leave the plastic canister in place full of antifreeze or will it crack during the winter? Wasn't sure if I can leave it in or should I just remove it and store it for the winter...
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Old 10-09-2008, 04:27 AM   #10
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Since antifreeze dose not freeze then it should not expand and crack the canister just like your water lines. I use air because i don't like the Idea of pink stuff in my water lines. RV antifreeze is nontoxic and safe and I use it in my pool but not in my drinking water.
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Old 10-15-2008, 07:13 PM   #11
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I left the anti-freeze in the filter cylinder 2 years ago but evidently there was a very small amount of water mixed with the pink stuff. Guess what the liquid expanded and broke the cylinder. I found out the problem when I started to dewinterize in Richmond in early January. Since I couldn't find the same cylinder mfg. I had to take the filter housing out completely.

When you are done take all the liquid out of the filter housing!!
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Old 10-15-2008, 07:28 PM   #12
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That's odd if you have more water then antifreeze, I could see that happening but a small amount of water with a full cylinder of antifreeze???????
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Old 10-16-2008, 10:52 AM   #13
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All I can add is that I've read here and elsewhere about folks who found their
water filter canister cracked come spring time.
I wonder if the antifreeze expands a little or does the canister get brittle
in the cold??
I'm gonna drain and or permanently remove my filter.
It's in a terrible place to reach and I think it's easier to put the filter
at the hose inlet on the outside.
At least it's a lot easier to drain and replace out there.
If we were full timers I'd look at it differently I guess....
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Old 10-25-2008, 10:59 AM   #14
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Smile

A plumber told me one time to put a litle mineral oil in each floor drain in my home to keep the water in the trap from evaporating. The mineral oil is lighter than water and will float to the top. Each time I winterize, I put a little mineral oil in the sink drains and shower to keep the antifreeze from evaporating. This has worked well for me.
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Old 11-03-2008, 06:16 PM   #15
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The delivering dealer winterized the FW before I took delivery. It was new and I did nothing but when I hooked it up to city water after heading south from MA, water went everywhere.

I LATER FOUND OUT THAT I SHOULD NOT LEAVE THE FILTER HOUSING FULL OF ANTIFREEZE BECAUSE THE PINK STUFF EXPANDS.

Now i winterize and when all is done I empty the plastic filter housing and replace it. No problems since....
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Old 11-04-2008, 12:09 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick45 View Post
The delivering dealer winterized the FW before I took delivery. It was new and I did nothing but when I hooked it up to city water after heading south from MA, water went everywhere.

I LATER FOUND OUT THAT I SHOULD NOT LEAVE THE FILTER HOUSING FULL OF ANTIFREEZE BECAUSE THE PINK STUFF EXPANDS.

Now i winterize and when all is done I empty the plastic filter housing and replace it. No problems since....
That's the first time I've ever heard that! Not sure I believe it, however.
Mine system was full of pink stuff...and so was the filter housing. Temps dropped into the -40F range...and nothing broke. In fact...nothing in my water system has ever frozen that I've winterized with pink stuff.

My guess is....the antifreeze was bad, or water was mixed in somehow? I'm sure not all antifreeze is the same either. Either way...that is scary...because mine is full again this year!
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Old 11-04-2008, 07:33 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NDJollyMon View Post
Mine system was full of pink stuff...and so was the filter housing. Temps dropped into the -40F range...and nothing broke.
-40 ????
Yikes!!
I think the "pink stuff" is only rated for -20!!

Makes me shiver just thinking about it.......

As far as breaking a water filter canister-- I can see how it might
happen. If the cartridge were removed and it still had
water in the housing, it would be possible to
run a fair amount of antifreeze thru the filter housing without totally
changing out the contents of the canister.
IE. you could wind up with a mixture of pink and water and that could
freeze if it got cold enough.

We used a separate filter at the hose inlet all season.
I have to take a bunch of stuff out of my "basement" and crawl in
there to access the filter so I took off the lines and connected them
together with a plastic coupling permanently bypassing my inside
filter. If a future owner wants to re-connect it, they can do it easily.
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Old 11-04-2008, 07:37 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick45 View Post
The delivering dealer winterized the FW before I took delivery. It was new and I did nothing but when I hooked it up to city water after heading south from MA, water went everywhere.
Sounds like they left some water in the filter housing and it diluted the AF. If the filter is removed (which I assume it was) the flow can short circuit from inlet to outlet and not replace all the water in the canister. Emptying the filter canister is a good practice but the antifreeze is designed NOT to expand and cause problems.
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Old 11-05-2008, 08:47 PM   #19
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My mistake.
RV antifreeze is rated 50 BELOW.
That's cold!!!!
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Old 11-12-2008, 07:14 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by rthrbelsewhere View Post
This was my first time doing the bypass thing with the antifreeze bottle and i have to say, that was one pain in the butt. Keeping the hose straight and the bottle tilted without falling over so that I didnt get air in the lines was just a pain.
We bought one of those funnels with the hose attached to it. The tip of the hose is a perfect match to fit inside the bypass line. We have winterized the Surveyor two times so far this fall. Leaving the Surveyor unwinterized between weekend outings would be asking for trouble. Putting the funnel hose in the bypass line works like a charm, so long as I keep pouring in the anti-freeze while the pump is running.



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