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05-08-2012, 04:52 PM
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#41
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Smyrna, Tennessee
Posts: 445
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Yes, I would like to know the outcome on this one. It should have soaked long enough now....
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2009 Palomino Puma 25RS
2007 Chevrolet Silverado
Prodigy P2 Brake Controller
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05-08-2012, 05:44 PM
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#42
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: SW Florida
Posts: 83
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If you can get your hands on some liquid nitrogen, crank the T/stat as high as it will go. When the tank reaches temperature squirt the anode with the nitrogen. Put a 2' cheater on your breaker bar and stand on it with both feet. If this don't do it or the mounts break, resort to the dynamite.
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Wayne & June Bowers Camp Mutts Bo & Baby
2011 F250 Lariat 4X4 SCSB 6.7 Power Stroke
50 Gallon Titan Fuel Tank
2011 Flagstaff 8528RLWS 5th Wheel
Reese Sidewinder Hitch 2002 Road Star Warrior
SouthWest Florida FROG
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05-10-2012, 08:42 AM
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#43
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Nevada
Posts: 19
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I had to give up. Tried all the suggestions, finally took it to the shop for an impact wrench. Took him a couple times, but it came out. The liquid/spray rust remover didn't help at all.
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05-10-2012, 09:59 AM
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#44
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by witchcraft
I had to give up. Tried all the suggestions, finally took it to the shop for an impact wrench. Took him a couple times, but it came out. The liquid/spray rust remover didn't help at all.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordmantpw
Impact wrench? Sounds a little extreme for an anode rod, but if you've tried everything else...
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I called it!
Glad you got it out!
__________________
2012 Flagstaff 8528 BHSS
2008 Ford F250 Crew Cab 4x4 6.4L Power Stroke
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05-17-2012, 06:50 PM
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#45
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Too old to be too smart
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: La La Land
Posts: 439
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawomet3
PB Blaster and a cross lug nut wrench worked for me (1-1/16)
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This is the second-most helpful hint I've read in the short time I've been reading this forum!
My Ford Superduty's lug wrench can provide enough torque to remove the most stubborn anode rod from a Suburban water heater, and it's just the right size.
My heater will be getting a new rod before it heats water again, 'cause it sure needs one. On order!
So far, the MOST-helpful hint has been to buy the TST -507 TPMS.
Pop
__________________
Terry 250RKS, perfect for the two of us and the pups.
2000 F-350 7.3L CC/LB 4WD Lariat 3.73's
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05-17-2012, 08:07 PM
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#46
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Jack of All Trades
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Williston, Florida
Posts: 317
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When you put the anode rod back in, make sure the threads are clean on the rod and in the tank (use a wire brush to clean them), then use about three or four wraps of Teflon pipe tape or a thin layer of Teflon based pipe dope.
When you tighten the anode rod, don't over do it. Go finger tight plus one half turn. Fill the system and put it under pressure. If it leaks, tighten a quarter turn at a time untill it stops leaking.
One of the biggest mistakes people make with pipe threads is over tightening the joint.
Rick
__________________
Rick & Debbie; Brandy Schnoodle & Bucky (Dexter & Fritz R.I.P.) the Doxie "Kids"
2015 Jayco Pinnacle 36RSQS 5'er
2018 GMC Sierra Denali 3500HD, 6.6L Diesel Dually; B&W Companion 5'er hitch
ScanGauge, TST 507 TPMS
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05-19-2012, 03:58 PM
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#47
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Too old to be too smart
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: La La Land
Posts: 439
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I like to clean female pipe threads by "snugging up" a pipe tap.
Not enough to cut new threads, mind you, but just enough to clean the crud out of them.
And, yup, Teflon tape is a wonder-cure anti-sieze.
Pop
__________________
Terry 250RKS, perfect for the two of us and the pups.
2000 F-350 7.3L CC/LB 4WD Lariat 3.73's
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05-19-2012, 05:14 PM
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#48
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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For those that don't have pipe taps, you can make a cheap thread cleaner with a 6" long 3/4" pipe nipple by cutting 3 or 4 cuts perpendicular to the threads the full length of the threads. The grooves should be just under 1/8" wide and can be cut with a hacksaw. This will not cut threads, but will clean them and put the crude inside the pipe.
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05-19-2012, 05:35 PM
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#49
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 95
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It is 1 1/16". I just changed mine for the first time (19 months). I won't wait that long again, the rod was mostly used up. I used a 1/2" drive with extender and it took a good bit of force to get it started. I noticed the threads in the water heater had some corrosion, and tried to use vinegar to soften/remove it before inserting the new rod.
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07-07-2012, 12:01 AM
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#50
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Kansas City & Sierra Vista
Posts: 247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by witchcraft
I had to give up. Tried all the suggestions, finally took it to the shop for an impact wrench. Took him a couple times, but it came out. The liquid/spray rust remover didn't help at all.
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Glad you got it out and replaced!!!!!
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Jim & Kathy
2012 Crusader 290RLT TE, TrailAir flex pin: 2012 Toyota Tundra 5.7 SR5 Dbl cab 4X2 Tow, 4.30 gears, RideRite air, TRD cold-air induction & dual exhaust: Reese 16K Slider: TST tpms
Miles towed to date: 26,890; Nights camped; lost count!
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