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Old 05-08-2012, 05:52 PM   #41
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Yes, I would like to know the outcome on this one. It should have soaked long enough now....
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Old 05-08-2012, 06:44 PM   #42
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If you can get your hands on some liquid nitrogen, crank the T/stat as high as it will go. When the tank reaches temperature squirt the anode with the nitrogen. Put a 2' cheater on your breaker bar and stand on it with both feet. If this don't do it or the mounts break, resort to the dynamite.
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Old 05-10-2012, 09:42 AM   #43
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I had to give up. Tried all the suggestions, finally took it to the shop for an impact wrench. Took him a couple times, but it came out. The liquid/spray rust remover didn't help at all.
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Old 05-10-2012, 10:59 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by witchcraft View Post
I had to give up. Tried all the suggestions, finally took it to the shop for an impact wrench. Took him a couple times, but it came out. The liquid/spray rust remover didn't help at all.
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Originally Posted by fordmantpw View Post
Impact wrench? Sounds a little extreme for an anode rod, but if you've tried everything else...
I called it!

Glad you got it out!
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Old 05-17-2012, 07:50 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawomet3 View Post
PB Blaster and a cross lug nut wrench worked for me (1-1/16)
This is the second-most helpful hint I've read in the short time I've been reading this forum!

My Ford Superduty's lug wrench can provide enough torque to remove the most stubborn anode rod from a Suburban water heater, and it's just the right size.

My heater will be getting a new rod before it heats water again, 'cause it sure needs one. On order!

So far, the MOST-helpful hint has been to buy the TST -507 TPMS.

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Old 05-17-2012, 09:07 PM   #46
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When you put the anode rod back in, make sure the threads are clean on the rod and in the tank (use a wire brush to clean them), then use about three or four wraps of Teflon pipe tape or a thin layer of Teflon based pipe dope.

When you tighten the anode rod, don't over do it. Go finger tight plus one half turn. Fill the system and put it under pressure. If it leaks, tighten a quarter turn at a time untill it stops leaking.

One of the biggest mistakes people make with pipe threads is over tightening the joint.

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Old 05-19-2012, 04:58 PM   #47
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I like to clean female pipe threads by "snugging up" a pipe tap.

Not enough to cut new threads, mind you, but just enough to clean the crud out of them.

And, yup, Teflon tape is a wonder-cure anti-sieze.

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Old 05-19-2012, 06:14 PM   #48
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For those that don't have pipe taps, you can make a cheap thread cleaner with a 6" long 3/4" pipe nipple by cutting 3 or 4 cuts perpendicular to the threads the full length of the threads. The grooves should be just under 1/8" wide and can be cut with a hacksaw. This will not cut threads, but will clean them and put the crude inside the pipe.
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Old 05-19-2012, 06:35 PM   #49
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It is 1 1/16". I just changed mine for the first time (19 months). I won't wait that long again, the rod was mostly used up. I used a 1/2" drive with extender and it took a good bit of force to get it started. I noticed the threads in the water heater had some corrosion, and tried to use vinegar to soften/remove it before inserting the new rod.
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Old 07-07-2012, 01:01 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by witchcraft View Post
I had to give up. Tried all the suggestions, finally took it to the shop for an impact wrench. Took him a couple times, but it came out. The liquid/spray rust remover didn't help at all.
Glad you got it out and replaced!!!!!
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