Any easy way to remove anode rod?

[witchcraft]

My Wildwood TT has a suburban water heater and I want to replace the anode rod but the plug is soldily rusted. I have tried every tool I have and every chemical and can't budge it. Has anyone come up with a good solution to busting this plug free?

[donn]

A socket of the correct size a 4 inch extension and a breaker bar. I take mine out yearly when I winterize and leave it out all winter. I clean the threads apply one wrap of Teflon tape for lubrication and install it in the spring. Have never had a problem.

[fordmantpw]

Impact wrench? Sounds a little extreme for an anode rod, but if you've tried everything else...

[Herk7769]

The correct size wrench is critical.
Once you bugger the threads your choices deteriorate quickly.
A drill and LARGE "easy out" may be your only choice.

Be careful not to drill through into the tank. You don't want metal shavings in the water system.

[2007Rockwood2601]

If your using the correct socket and it still wont budge after soaking it with penetrating oil. I would just leave it. You will probably cause more damage trying to force it then just leaving the old one in. How have you been winterizing it?

[KyDan]

Originally Posted by donn

A socket of the correct size a 4 inch extension and a breaker bar. .

What HE said plus liberal amount of liquid wrench rust disolver found at
any hardware store.
Apply liquid wrench every few hours for a day or 2 and use the wrench
again.
If you have a small propane torch you can try heating and then the socket
and lots of muscle.

Next time apply plenty of teflon tape or Oatey great white pipe dope
with teflon. You can get oatey at Home Depot or Lowes plumbing isle.

[witchcraft]

Thanks everybody. I'll give it all a try. Guess I better start working out at the gym more often.

[Fire Instructor]

As I recall, it's an oddball size, like 1 1/16" or 1 1/8".... Soak it once or twice a day for a week with good penetrating oil, then steady pressure with a breaker bar. As others said, wrap the threads of the new annode with teflon tape, and remove it at LEAST annually.

[St1tcher]

Yeah it's an oddball size. I believe it is the 1 1/16" size in a 1/2" drive. Use a breaker bar and just make sure you are completly on the bolt. I did notice on mine with it being new they still didn't use any teflon tape and I thought I was giving it too much force. But then low and behold it finally let loose and I was able to get it out. Just take your time and don't rush things. Don't want to strip it our you will need to get the "easy out" like Herk suggested.

[TURBS]

1/2 stick of dynamite would get it out !


I do not really have a suggestion that already has not been said .

oh wait I think I do

get one of these !
its 3/8 drive just use an adapter . I Have two of these and use it all the time for stuck rusted bolts that I don't want to use a pneumatic impact for .
This thing will jolt the item being removed and works 90 % of the time !

[Herk7769]

Cast iron boiler; hammer nut breaker.
Maybe not.

[fast murray]

Mine is 1 1/16. I have a 6 point socket and the last time I couldn't get it with the ratchet I grabbed the Dewalt 1/2" 18V impact and it spun it out. I wouldn't dare try this with a 12point socket though. Long time ago I got a choke tube stuck in a shotgun and oiled it everyday for a couple of weeks with no success. As a last resort before buying a new barrel I used a pneumatic impact gun and after a good amount of hammering it came out.

[crocus]

If it is that hard to remove, an acetylene torch is the only thing that would get it hot enough to break the rust loose.
Hold the torch in the very center of the nut, for about 30 seconds, then use a 1/2 inch impact gun. If that isn't enough, give it another 15 seconds. You don't want to get it too hot, but if you don't get the anode rod out, you tank is as good as ruined anyway.
good luck.

[OldCoot]

I would start with a 1/4" drill bit and gradually increase it to 1/2" and use a center punch to bend the remaining pc in towards the center and grip it with needle nose vise grips OR with a 6 pt socket and a breaker bar, try to turn it and it will probably collapse and then use the vise grips. Putting heat on it would risk damage to the tank and surrounding pcs. Check with a magnet and make sure the tank is not alum. If it is alum., keep the torch AWAY from it.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by dunnnc

I would start with a 1/4" drill bit and gradually increase it to 1/2" and use a center punch to bend the remaining pc in towards the center and grip it with needle nose vise grips OR with a 6 pt socket and a breaker bar, try to turn it and it will probably collapse and then use the vise grips. Putting heat on it would risk damage to the tank and surrounding pcs. Check with a magnet and make sure the tank is not alum. If it is alum., keep the torch AWAY from it.

I doubt they would use an aluminum or magnesium alloy anode rod in an aluminum tank, would they?

[crocus]

An amateur trying to drill out such a large plug will guarantee ruining the tank. Few would have the skill or patience to do it properly. But a good mechanic with a double-cut carbide burr on an a high-speed air tool could finesse the last of the plug out after drilling the center out.

And when I said to use an acetylene torch, I said to heat the plug, not the tank.
But you are right, most people would probably melt the tank by getting the plug too hot. I have used one all my life, and can work miracles with it. But I am not 'most' people.

It is too bad people don't maintain their stuff properly.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by herk7769

I doubt they would use an aluminum or magnesium alloy anode rod in an aluminum tank, would they?

Doubtful, but who knows? I have seen stranger things. I would just be very hesitant with a torch around all the other alum/plastic/rubber/wiring that is around the heater. Would do my darndest to drill it to no more than 1/2" or 9/16" max.(0.5625")as the tap drill for 1/2" npt is 45/64"(0.703").

[JoeR]

I like to use PB Blaster or Kroil as penetrating oil. The Kroil smells a lot better.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by crocus

An amateur trying to drill out such a large plug will guarantee ruining the tank. Few would have the skill or patience to do it properly. But a good mechanic with a double-cut carbide burr on an a high-speed air tool could finesse the last of the plug out after drilling the center out...

I agree, but the anode should have a center mark to center punch and once the anode itself is gone, the drill should more or less center itself.

[crocus]

After a bit of thought, if the tank has an anode rod, it wouldn't be an aluminum tank. Easy enough to check with a magnet.
Get out the torch!