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06-04-2013, 07:57 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Papllion, Nebraska
Posts: 8
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Any trick for removing the water heater heating element?
Hi all,
I bought the special wrench to remove the electric water heating element, but on my camper the gas system is in the way; I cannot get the wrench onto the electric element.
any ideas?
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06-04-2013, 08:08 AM
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#2
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Always Learning
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Four Corners, FL
Posts: 21,891
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Grunting and swearing mostly...
Any chance that you have a picture of your setup that we might be able to throw out ideas?
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Officially a SOB with a 2022 Jayco Precept 36C
Checkout my site for RVing tips, tricks, and info | Was a Fulltime Family for 5 years, now we're part-timing on long trips
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06-04-2013, 08:15 AM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,933
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smallstonefan
Hi all,
I bought the special wrench to remove the electric water heating element, but on my camper the gas system is in the way; I cannot get the wrench onto the electric element.
any ideas?
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If it's a Suburban, you just remove the burner tube. Here is a video showing how.
__________________
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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06-04-2013, 04:32 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Papllion, Nebraska
Posts: 8
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That video is EXACTLY what I needed - thanks much!
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06-04-2013, 04:57 PM
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#5
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Didn't see him use any Teflon tape on the element or the anode and I would have pressurized the system before putting the cover on to check for leaks. If no leaks, then reinstall the cover and the gas tube. JMO.
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06-04-2013, 06:19 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Cochrane, AB
Posts: 829
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I'm having exactly the same problem with mine. I moved everything in order to gain access to this sucker but I cannot budge the heating element that is well and truly stuck in the water tank. I'm now booked into the dealership for them to have a go.
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Richard & Diane
2014 Cedar Creek 38FL
2016 F350 Lariat CC DRW
Retired Metropolitan Police (UK)
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06-04-2013, 06:23 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Palm Coast FL
Posts: 746
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Remember to RELEASE THE PRESSURE from the heater. I did NOT one time and blew the anode 23'. Luckily the 2 next door storage units were empty and no damage done. Would have been a big dent in the MH usually next to me. Whew!
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Brenda and John
'14 Ram 3500 MCSB 6.7L HO PullRite 16K S/G, Grey Columbus 320RS Camped '14 - 146 days/'15 - 196 days
USN-EOD(Ret), Master Chief, 30 yrs,
Master Blaster of the Navy
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06-04-2013, 06:46 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 54
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I found my next door. Also got a shower of water and anode rod crumbs. DW had a good laugh. Yes depresurize first
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06-04-2013, 07:05 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Keller, Texas
Posts: 6,090
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot
Didn't see him use any Teflon tape on the element or the anode and I would have pressurized the system before putting the cover on to check for leaks. If no leaks, then reinstall the cover and the gas tube. JMO.
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X2 on your comments. In addition, why does he call the flue assembly "this piece" instead of what it is - a flue? Some people watching this video may hear the word "flue" used later someplace and wonder what a "flue" is.
Also - someone else commented correctly once that this is not a "hot water heater", but rather a water heater that heats cold water to make it hot.
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06-04-2013, 08:36 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Cochrane, AB
Posts: 829
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Well, I've just had a second go at trying to get the element out of my hot water tank without success. I cannot budge the manufacturer installed element. I'm using the correct tools, depressurized and drained the tank, everything. All I succeeded in doing was identifying how I bruised and scrapped my arm the first time I was trying this last weekend.
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Richard & Diane
2014 Cedar Creek 38FL
2016 F350 Lariat CC DRW
Retired Metropolitan Police (UK)
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06-04-2013, 08:52 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Keller, Texas
Posts: 6,090
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hutch333id
Well, I've just had a second go at trying to get the element out of my hot water tank without success. I cannot budge the manufacturer installed element. I'm using the correct tools, depressurized and drained the tank, everything. All I succeeded in doing was identifying how I bruised and scrapped my arm the first time I was trying this last weekend.
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Try squirting some good penetrating oil on the base of the element and letting it soak in for a day or two.
Could get messy so place some rags under the base before hitting it with the oil.
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06-04-2013, 08:55 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Milford, MA
Posts: 445
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A breaker bar, or breaker bar extended with a pipe is sometimes required. The more leverage, the easier it is.
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2011 A-122
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06-04-2013, 09:28 PM
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#13
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,933
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rawlus
A breaker bar, or breaker bar extended with a pipe is sometimes required. The more leverage, the easier it is.
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Do we know if he has a socket that fits a breaker bar.......or if he has the kind of water heater socket that just has the hole in it to insert a screwdriver, like below?
These type above do a decent job, but can also bend/bow if you had to put a bunch of pressure on it (which is hard to do with just a screwdriver as a handle).
A good 1/2 inch drive or bigger, six-point socket (I would use a heavy wall impact type socket) may have to be used on this stuck one.
B47 had good advice about letting penetrating oil soak for awhile.
__________________
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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06-04-2013, 09:50 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Cochrane, AB
Posts: 829
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WM, that's exactly what I've got. Looking at the heater element, there is only a marginal depth of metal showing so applying force to keep the element socket squarely on the actual element, combined with enough leverage and force to actually turn the element through the socket with the assistance of a strong screwdriver for further leverage is quite a balancing act. I've applied penetrating oil, dismantled the gas supply pipe, even removed the exhaust diffuser above the gas inlet to provide extra space where I can try and turn this beast. All no good, so off to the dealer and let him try. He might have a pneumatic power socket that will fit and do the job. If not he can bruise his arms up trying to force this around and get it out. I've given up for now. I also don't want to run the risk of causing damage to the water tank, so by letting the dealer do it, if they break they can fix it.
If they had told me about the separate switch for the electric element in the first place when I bought the trailer, none of this needed to have happened. All we were ever told about was the DSI switch inside the trailer located on the control panel.
I really appreciate the advice you folks are able to provide and know know where to look first for most, if not all issues with my trailer. Thank you
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Richard & Diane
2014 Cedar Creek 38FL
2016 F350 Lariat CC DRW
Retired Metropolitan Police (UK)
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06-05-2013, 09:25 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Cochrane, AB
Posts: 829
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Success!! It took two of us, some brute strength and pure ignorance but I finally got that wretched element out. Now to find a replacement element of the same size. The one I had bought is only half the length but it was a 1500W 120v heating element for a suburban water heater.
__________________
Richard & Diane
2014 Cedar Creek 38FL
2016 F350 Lariat CC DRW
Retired Metropolitan Police (UK)
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06-05-2013, 09:37 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Milford, MA
Posts: 445
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Good point, by breaker bar I meant a swivel end 1/2" bar like this:
1/2 In. dr. 18 In. Flex Handle: Bust Loose Rusty Bolts with Sears
This is what I use, and I can add steel pipe to extend it even further if needed... Great leverage and the swivel end helps in that tight spot too. Get the socket to match and you're golden.
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2011 A-122
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