Any underbelly openers....

[Campster]

I was wondering if anyone has ever had to tear into the underbelly of their trailer for any plumbing issue or anything else. How did you patch it up afterwards? Any tricks or issues I should be aware of before I give it a try? does anyone know if the underbelly material is available at rv supply stores? Some kind of spray glue?

[jtstromsburg]

My underbelly is corroplast. Like cardboard but plastic. I've cut it and patched back using gorilla tape. I've heard of "stitching it" with cable ties as well.

[Skyliner]

I've removed mine or dropped mine on each of my campers to run 2 ROMEX lines for inverter and AC power.

Coroplast can be glued together with CA glue. Use the fresh stuff from a model airplane store if you go this route. I prefer using contact cement over CA or gorilla glue.

I usually use a foot wide section of coroplast to re-splice the coroplast I cut to make removal easier.

To patch and glue coroplast, you will need to prep the surface.

Two way to do it:

(a) Hard Way: Using a scotch-brite pad and alcohol rub the areas you wish to splice together until the "sheen" is removed from the coroplast.

(b) Easier way: Run a flame from propane or butane torch quickly over desired place to splice coroplast together. THis "flashes" the coroplast material and allows it to be glued with CA glue, rubber cement, or other glues.

How to join together:
(a) Eternabond tape to join seams. Prep coroplast by flashing with flame or using steel wool (or scotch brite pad) and alcohol.

(b) New method but I've never used it: 3M's Scotch-Weld™ Structural Plastic Adhesive DP-8005 is available from Grainger and other distributors for industrial use and is able to adhere coroplast together.

(c) Trusted and tried method: Glue with CA (cyanoacrylate i.e. super glue) using small drops spaced about 1/2 inch apart from each other..too much will make things worse. Rubber cement works also and I prerfer it to CA glue. Gorilla glue takes too long to cure.

I build model airplanes from coroplast and have had rubber cement glued coroplast airplanes last 15 years. Usually the oily exhaust from the glow engines causes the rubber cement bonds to weaken over time. Areas that aren't exposed to oily exhaust seemed to hold up fine for very long periods of time.

I've also joined coroplast together using the following:
....laced together using zip ties
....laced together using fishing line
....stapled together using yardstick as backing material for staple to adhere too.

Good luck and have fun. FLashing coroplast with a torch to make it adhere better takes some practice. Too much flashing can melt the coroplast and too little won't allow it to take glue.

[Davidg]

Originally Posted by jtstromsburg

My underbelly is corroplast. Like cardboard but plastic. I've cut it and patched back using gorilla tape. I've heard of "stitching it" with cable ties as well.

Several years ago, the black tank valve cable froze up, and I had to cut into the corroplast belly of my Durango. My biggest challenge was locating the valve. When you cut it, just cut three sides so you have a flap with the 4th side being the hinge. Make sure the hinge side is toward the hitch of the camper. This keeps 60 mph wind from pressurizing the area behind the corroplast.

After you have completed repairs, use jt's suggestion....drill holes about a 1/2" from edge and every 3" around the three cut sides. A hand held hole punch works also. Feed ty-wraps (zip ties) through, cinch them snug, and then apply strips of 3" wide gorilla tape to cover the seams. Befroe applying the tape, wipe the corroplast with alcohol. This will last for years.

[DaveandSue]

On our first Chaparral,I had to replace the black tank valve assembly.I just dropped the screws out of the panel where the piping disappears into the under belly.Not hard to do,but when you slide it out,be careful of all the falling bits and pieces that they leave under there.Screws lumber and a ton of tye wraps and saw dust.

[PSU Turf]

I just remove the screws that hold it on the frame.


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