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Old 04-11-2016, 12:39 PM   #11
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I called the local camper and they want 13$ more than amazon, I can buy a couple of bags of charcoal with that 13$, lol but thanks for the tip bud.


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Old 04-11-2016, 01:06 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by SpringerPop View Post
^^That's the answer.^^

All of the previous rod has turned to little white chunks, and you'll want to flush those out before installing the new rod.

Use Teflon tape, too.

Pop
Yup. And for that, there's this.
RV Water Heater Tank Flush Tool
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Old 04-11-2016, 01:11 PM   #13
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I recommend you buy two, Shipping will be a few bucks more at most and you will have one the next time you pull it out and decide it needs to be replaced. Be sure to use 1-2 turns of teflon tape when installing new one.
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Old 04-11-2016, 01:21 PM   #14
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I called the local camper and they want 13$ more than amazon, I can buy a couple of bags of charcoal with that 13$, lol but thanks for the tip bud.


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No problem just thought the shipping would make it cost about what you could by locally. Later RJD
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Old 04-11-2016, 02:27 PM   #15
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I called the local camper and they want 13$ more than amazon, I can buy a couple of bags of charcoal with that 13$, lol but thanks for the tip bud.


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I personally don't mind paying the extra to keep a local business open. Amazon has killed the small business.

Think about when your on the road and something breaks, Amazon is not going to be there to help. The local guy/gal will be. I'll pat extra to support the local shop.

Don't get me wrong. I'm not anti-Amazon, there are things that are not local and worth the drive.
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Old 04-11-2016, 07:29 PM   #16
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Anode installation

Like said above you need to put a couple of turns of teflon thread tape on the threads of the new rod. It is used as more of a "lubricant" for the threads than as a sealant. Also, take a toothbrush size wire brush and clean the tank threads out well. Then flush the tank out to get rid of the anode crud and particles from the threads you cleaned up. When you go to install and tighten the anode use a 1 and 1/16" socket, appropriate extension and ratchet wrench. Take a small amount of paper, like a newspaper ad, and pack it into the socket so the anode does not go all the way into the socket, that lets you better control the rod as you install and tighten.
Now, you DO NOT want to "gronk" (over tighten) the rod. You want it good and snug, but not so tight you cannot remove it the next time and you start cussing the gorilla who last installed it. I resemble that last bit...
I got the 1 and 1/16" 1/2" drive socket socket at Northern Tool.

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Old 04-11-2016, 07:34 PM   #17
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While you have the anode out you need to flush the crud that is in the bottom of the tank or else it will plug your faucets and toilet.
How are deposits in the water heater going to make their way to the toilet? It can't happen.

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Old 04-11-2016, 07:36 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by SpringerPop View Post
^^That's the answer.^^

All of the previous rod has turned to little white chunks, and you'll want to flush those out before installing the new rod.

Use Teflon tape, too.

Pop
The white chunks in the bottom of the water heater are hard water deposits, not pieces of depleted anode rod.

Bruce
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Old 04-11-2016, 07:46 PM   #19
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I called Suburban and they recommended the magnesium anode that can be harder to find than aluminum. Used the rinse tool and hose to rinse out tank in spring with lots of water before putting new anode and sanitize system. Soon....great springer!
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Old 04-11-2016, 08:02 PM   #20
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Suggestion. Save the old anode rod, cut off the rod portion, and then save the plug for when you winterize the unit. When you winterize, change out the rod for the plug when you drain the WH. This will preserve the good rod and keep out all the junk that collects in the tank and clogs your water lines and faucets. It's a few extra step but saves you from bigger headaches in the spring.
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