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11-05-2015, 08:07 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,404
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Atwood water heater plastic plug
Two questions, maybe related:
1) when this came out, it seemed to have some goop on it. When re-inserted should pipe dope or Teflon tape be added to the threads?
2) how tight to make it to prevent leaks but not damage the plastic? When I initially closed it fairly tight (maybe one thread showing), it was oozing just a small bit so I snugged it up a bit more and that seemed to do it.
PS: New 15/16" socket seemed to be the best tool - thoughts there? Not much room to maneuver...
PPS: In addition about worrying about being too tight, I'm worried about cross-threading this sucker. Seems like it could easily be done. Anyone had that happen?
OK, that's 4 questions! ☺️
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2016 FR Forester 2401R
Towing 2014 Honda CR-V
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11-05-2015, 08:21 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: St Pete/FL
Posts: 347
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Are you referring to the anode rod? If so, yes to the teflon tape. Tighten but not so much you can't get it off tomorrow if needed.
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Dobe Fanatic - Largo, Florida
2012 Flagstaff T12RB A-Frame
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11-05-2015, 08:23 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Idaho
Posts: 9,839
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I use tape on my plastic plug, much easier to clean off the threads.
I start it with my fingers, if it starts easy then I use a socket and a 12 inch extension to go a little more before using the ratchet.
I check for leaks after the water is hot and then just snug it up till it stops leaking.
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2016 F350 6.7L LB CC Reese 28K 2014 Chaparral Lite 266sab
"Those who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety." 2014 19 days camping 2015 17 days camping201620 days camping
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11-05-2015, 08:27 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Part Timing It Now
Posts: 3,457
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MNtraveler
Two questions, maybe related:
1) when this came out, it seemed to have some goop on it. When re-inserted should pipe dope or Teflon tape be added to the threads?
2) how tight to make it to prevent leaks but not damage the plastic? When I initially closed it fairly tight (maybe one thread showing), it was oozing just a small bit so I snugged it up a bit more and that seemed to do it.
PS: New 15/16" socket seemed to be the best tool - thoughts there? Not much room to maneuver...
PPS: In addition about worrying about being too tight, I'm worried about cross-threading this sucker. Seems like it could easily be done. Anyone had that happen?
OK, that's 4 questions! ☺️
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When I had an Atwood, it had pipe dope from the factory. I cleaned that up and used teflon tape. It did ooz so, I re-wrapped the plug with about 10 layers of teflon tape. I thought about getting a metal plug but, the extra tape plus the heating of the water heater must have swelled the plug enough that it never leaked again.
If you use extra tape, that will help it feel snug enough and, as I said, the heat helped seal it up.
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"PT Crew Members Since 9/2010"
2011 RAM 2500 HD 6.7L CTD Crew
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11-05-2015, 11:36 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,404
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Atwood water heater plastic plug
Quote:
Originally Posted by DobeFanatic
Are you referring to the anode rod? If so, yes to the teflon tape. Tighten but not so much you can't get it off tomorrow if needed.
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The Atwood has a plastic plug, no anode rod, but it's the same location. Thanks for your comments.
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2016 FR Forester 2401R
Towing 2014 Honda CR-V
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11-05-2015, 11:38 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DobeFanatic
Are you referring to the anode rod? If so, yes to the teflon tape. Tighten but not so much you can't get it off tomorrow if needed.
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Thanks!
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2016 FR Forester 2401R
Towing 2014 Honda CR-V
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11-05-2015, 11:39 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ford Idaho
I use tape on my plastic plug, much easier to clean off the threads.
I start it with my fingers, if it starts easy then I use a socket and a 12 inch extension to go a little more before using the ratchet.
I check for leaks after the water is hot and then just snug it up till it stops leaking.
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Thanks - sounds like about what I did so all good. I'll try the extension rod for longer non-leveraged loading, if I can get it on.
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2016 FR Forester 2401R
Towing 2014 Honda CR-V
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11-05-2015, 11:40 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rracer5
When I had an Atwood, it had pipe dope from the factory. I cleaned that up and used teflon tape. It did ooz so, I re-wrapped the plug with about 10 layers of teflon tape. I thought about getting a metal plug but, the extra tape plus the heating of the water heater must have swelled the plug enough that it never leaked again.
If you use extra tape, that will help it feel snug enough and, as I said, the heat helped seal it up.
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Thanks. I'll be giving the tape a try in the spring. Can't wait!
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2016 FR Forester 2401R
Towing 2014 Honda CR-V
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11-06-2015, 12:18 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 114
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2 wraps with the tape is all you need. Anymore than that puts to much stress on the threads.
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FOREST RIVER FW 8524RLWS
2010 FORD F 150 5.4
#1-18' Nomad #2- 20' Mallard #3- 27' Sunline #4- Four Winds C #5- Innsbruck 40' PARK # 6- 28' Amerilite #7- Forest River 26.5 FW ( 1st FW)
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11-06-2015, 12:29 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SULTINI
2 wraps with the tape is all you need. Anymore than that puts to much stress on the threads.
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Makes sense, thanks!
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11-06-2015, 01:03 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 230
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No anode rod on Atwood water heaters.
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11-06-2015, 01:10 PM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 67
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My tire tool that has a correct size to tighten the plug. It's one that has four sizes and is cross shaped. It's straight and long enough to get the job done. I find it easier than a ratchet and socket (plus I always carry one in my truck).
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11-06-2015, 06:25 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Part Timing It Now
Posts: 3,457
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SULTINI
2 wraps with the tape is all you need. Anymore than that puts to much stress on the threads.
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Tried just a couple wraps on HW heater plug & a few others I found leaking over the years. Always seemed to be plastic plug into metal giving problems. The only way I could get the leaks to stop was using several wraps of teflon. Maybe something about plastic shrinking with age and causing leaks. Must be why Atwood used pipe dope for a better seal.
I just didn't have any pipe dope on hand when I discovered the leaks.
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"PT Crew Members Since 9/2010"
2011 RAM 2500 HD 6.7L CTD Crew
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11-06-2015, 06:35 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Idaho
Posts: 9,839
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rracer5
Tried just a couple wraps on HW heater plug & a few others I found leaking over the years. Always seemed to be plastic plug into metal giving problems. The only way I could get the leaks to stop was using several wraps of teflon. Maybe something about plastic shrinking with age and causing leaks. Must be why Atwood used pipe dope for a better seal.
I just didn't have any pipe dope on hand when I discovered the leaks.
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Pipe dope lives up to it's nickname, any dope can put it on pipe!
It is fast and cheap (in no way related to the RV industry )
There IS a right way and a wrong way to use thread tape.
Three trips around the plug has been more than enough, once the tank gets hot it will swell/expand some so a little extra nudge might be needed.
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2016 F350 6.7L LB CC Reese 28K 2014 Chaparral Lite 266sab
"Those who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety." 2014 19 days camping 2015 17 days camping201620 days camping
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11-06-2015, 07:09 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Stone Harbor, New Jersey
Posts: 102
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My last trailer had an Attwood with the plastic plug. As others have said, a couple turns of Teflon tape worked well for 3 or 4 ins and outs, then the threads seemed to wear out or something - also, as others have said, easy to cross thread. I always carried a spare just in case - pretty cheap insurance.
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11-07-2015, 03:17 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Midland, MI
Posts: 954
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I replaced my plastic plug with a small profile boiler valve. Makes it easier for draining.
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Cathy & Jeff
Midland, Michigan
2020 Cedar Creek 34IK / 2019 Ram3500 CID
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11-07-2015, 01:51 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,404
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Interesting idea!
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2016 FR Forester 2401R
Towing 2014 Honda CR-V
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11-08-2015, 07:24 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Sun City Center
Posts: 101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SULTINI
2 wraps with the tape is all you need. Anymore than that puts to much stress on the threads.
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I agree with the two wraps but it doesn't hurt at all to put a little pipe dope over the Teflon, the combination does wonders if you have a small leak that the Teflon doesn't quite seal. Just a small amount is all you need, it has helped me on the job seal some stubborn leaks.
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11-08-2015, 09:12 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by floridela
I agree with the two wraps but it doesn't hurt at all to put a little pipe dope over the Teflon, the combination does wonders if you have a small leak that the Teflon doesn't quite seal. Just a small amount is all you need, it has helped me on the job seal some stubborn leaks.
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Thanks!
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Towing 2014 Honda CR-V
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