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Old 09-13-2015, 04:49 PM   #11
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We use a flow pur system with #5 & # 7 at the water hose connection and a # 6 in the filter housing in the trailer and don't notice any water pressure drop.
We pump water straight out of the lake at our seasonal site and our tests come back clean.
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Old 09-13-2015, 08:16 PM   #12
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I disagree with your statement that reverse osmosis systems do not remove bacteria. Here is the definition of a reverse osmosis system

Reverse osmosis can remove many types of*molecules*and*ions*from solutions, including bacteria, and is used in both industrial processes and the production ofpotable water.
I'm not interested in a back and forth just a clarification for the OP.
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Old 09-13-2015, 08:20 PM   #13
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On my first U.S. Navy ship we used bromine resin cartridges to treat our drinking water. We were not allowed to distill to the fresh water tanks when we were within 12 nautical miles of land, as noted above that was because of bacteria. The only time we distilled to fresh water in a port was in Karachi, Pakistan. The water we were getting from the pier connection was so terrible the commanding officer allowed us to distill to fresh. We hyper-brominated the water and the corpsman tested the water six ways from Sunday. No one got sick, but the water had a bad taste, especially when we brushed our teeth. I operated the distilling plants and treated the water as part of my duties in the engine room.
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Old 09-13-2015, 09:21 PM   #14
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Big Blue - 2 Stage Water Filter System

I was using the RV CARBON WATER FILTER 40043by Camco for years. I would go through 2 a season, but I was always worried that there would be damage to the filter when I was not using it (unplugged). You definitely know when they expire by the restricted flow rate. Finagling with it during setup/breakdown was an inconvenience. I wanted great water anywhere I went without hauling gallons for bottled water!

After weeks of investigating, I went with a 2 stage Big Blue Whole House Water Filter System KDF55/GAC & SEDIMENT Filters 4.5" x 10" ( 221608555445). These systems are built for homes, so I knew it would last all season long and have not restrictions on flow rates at lower pressures. Found the whole system on Ebay including the 5 micron segment filter and KDF55/GAC filter for less then $100 (kit). Filter changes per season will run $20.

KDF is known to kill algae and fungi, control bacteria growth, and remove chlorine, pesticides, organic matter, rust, unpleasant taste and odor, hydrogen sulfide, iron, lead, nickel, chromium, cadmium, calcium, aluminium, mercury, arsenic, and other organic compounds. Activated carbon filters (GAC) remove/reduce many volatile organic chemicals (VOC), pesticides and herbicides, as well as chlorine, benzene, trihalomethane (THM) compounds, radon, solvents, and hundreds of other man-made chemicals.

I went with a hybrid Activated Carbon and KDF55 filter because the camper would sit for two weeks at a time. Pure carbon filters do not prevent bacterial growth and it would make it unsafe.

I reworked the incoming water line with PEX. I've included two pictures of the installed system under the bed, next to the inlet (including a bypass).
We have used it all season this year and loved the convenience and clarity of our water. One of the best mods to our camper!!!
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Old 09-15-2015, 09:11 AM   #15
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I use your basic Culligan whole house filter canister with the shut off which is available anywhere basicly. It has 3/4 nptf threads on both ends. You can easily source a brass 3/4 nptm x ghtm and 3/4 nptm x ghtf fittings (ght= garden hose thread) to put a hose on both ends of it. ANY water going into the TT in either the city water connection or into the potable tank or my two jerry cans goes through it. I use the cheap odor, sediment and taste cartridges and keep a spare on hand when I notice decreased flow. Works for me. I intend to eliminate the FR canister/high priced filter very soon. Many CGs have sediment issues, haven't found any with boil orders. If there was that issue with any regularity, I'd look into another spot to camp!
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Old 09-15-2015, 09:14 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ontherock View Post
Thanks to you both for the replies.
I did find a Rainfresh system that filters down to 0.3 micron which will take of bacteria but it only flows at 1.0 gpm / 40 psi which would make for a slow shower to be sure! I've only started looking at this issue today so maybe I'll keep looking / searching to see if anything else is available. If I do find something, I'll post it online for comments.
By the way, how low of a flow can you reasonably use in a shower?
Try an oxygenics shower head...you'l love it
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Old 09-15-2015, 11:05 PM   #17
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Word of caution about filling fresh tank with filtered water

Jeff,
It is not recommended that you filter out the chlorine from the water you store in the fresh water (portable) tank. Even bottled water is treated to an extent from going bad. Non-treated water will mold and mildew within weeks (faster on hot days). I don't recommend ever drinking this water, but for use in the shower/toilet/sink. Just to be safe...

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff64 View Post
I use your basic Culligan whole house filter canister with the shut off which is available anywhere basicly. It has 3/4 nptf threads on both ends. You can easily source a brass 3/4 nptm x ghtm and 3/4 nptm x ghtf fittings (ght= garden hose thread) to put a hose on both ends of it. ANY water going into the TT in either the city water connection or into the potable tank or my two jerry cans goes through it. I use the cheap odor, sediment and taste cartridges and keep a spare on hand when I notice decreased flow. Works for me. I intend to eliminate the FR canister/high priced filter very soon. Many CGs have sediment issues, haven't found any with boil orders. If there was that issue with any regularity, I'd look into another spot to camp!
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