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Old 10-30-2017, 03:13 PM   #1
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Black Tank Valve not closing fully

I've got a 2015 Silverback 33IK, but I'm sure the tank locations are identical for a number of models. Ever since day one, the black tank valve has been hard to close. It has a handle and cable system from the convenience center to the valve, wherever that may be. I have to really lay in to the handle to get the valve to close. Lately, when I go to dump, there is "liquid" in the common outlet pipe, and it's getting worse. Has anyone peeled off the underbelly and taken a look at how this is set up? Is the cable just too long? Does it make too many bends? Do I just have a bad cable ass'y and should replace? I don't want to rip out the belly if it is not a handyman / user fixable issue.
Thanks. . .
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Old 10-30-2017, 03:22 PM   #2
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I couldn't tell you, but what I do know is that most cable systems need to rerouted or shortened, the factory will not do that and sometimes just loops it over stuff. This is a very common complaint. What you can do is cut a 3 sided inspection plate if you know where the valve is located, and reroute it, then just tape up the area a lot better then dropping the whole belly.
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Old 10-30-2017, 03:26 PM   #3
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What I did with one that was really hard to open, and close, was to leave it open, but put a manual pull valve at the outlet, and would open and close that. Kept the grey tanks closed. Open the manual valve let the black go, then drain the Grey's, close them, then flush the black, then close the manual valve back in. Worked great.
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Old 10-31-2017, 10:14 AM   #4
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On my previous TT I had the cable system for both valves--a real PITA. Yes, I did remove the underbelly cover, something like a corrugated aluminum roofing material, and found that I had about six (6) feet of cable and only needed maybe 30", as "WITCH DOCTOR" stated. I noticed that when the handle was moved in or out the cable housing would flex, a lot, and the valves may or may not move as they needed to. I figured out how much cable I would need to make this as straight as possible between handle and valve, then made up a couple of brackets to hold the cable housing as ridgid as possible. I mounted these to the underside of the TT floor using wood screws into the OSB material. I had that mod on there for at least two (2) years before selling the TT. IF you're underbelly is covered with the aluminum or the newer "Coroplast", looks like black plastic corrugated cardboard material, you can access that area (as WITCH DOCTOR stated) by cutting only three sides, preferably leaving the hinge side to the front. The Coroplast can be taped back into place using something like "Gorilla tape". On my aluminum material I used a couple of pieces of tin I cut to size and sheet metal screws. Good Luck
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Old 10-31-2017, 10:22 AM   #5
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Thanks for the replies

Good ideas here. The extra valve is a good stop gap solution until I have a chance to rip out the hard plastic underbelly. There's also a foil faced liner / insulation on top of that. Sounds like a spring project!
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Old 10-31-2017, 10:26 AM   #6
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You've receive some good information on a common complaint about cable actuated blade valves.

I wont add any to that discussion but will second the advice of a external termination twist on valve that's available for the end of your sewer port that will keep you from having a mess when removing the cap until you get the cable/valve repaired.

It looks like this...
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Old 10-31-2017, 12:27 PM   #7
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The valves that FR installs at the factory have stranded wire cables. They tend to flex under a bit too much pressure rather than push. I replaced mine with a new Valterra that has one solid wire and that made a huge difference. I haven't done the gray water valve yet but that is next.

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Old 10-31-2017, 12:35 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
You've receive some good information on a common complaint about cable actuated blade valves.

I wont add any to that discussion but will second the advice of a external termination twist on valve that's available for the end of your sewer port that will keep you from having a mess when removing the cap until you get the cable/valve repaired.

It looks like this...
I put two on mine, after I was hit with the black tank when I removed the termination cap. One on the black tank and One on the gray, they work great, just be careful when you add your slinky
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Old 10-31-2017, 12:36 PM   #9
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After replacing 2 black tank cables for this exact problem I installed an electric valve. Put switch in the storage bay near the outlet. No further problems.
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Old 10-31-2017, 01:05 PM   #10
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Try these three things:
1. squirt silicone lubricant into the valve handle rod while it is in the open position. Work it back and forth several times and do it again. Do this every time you open it to drain for several dumps, it will help lubricate the inside of the cable.

2. Fill yoru black tank full with clear water and dump it, once or twice to try and dislodge anything that has gotten into the slot in the gate valve.

3. Buy some Valve Lubricant. It goes into the tank while it is empty. It is an oil that floats on the water inside and lubricates the valve from bottom to top as the tank fills from.

Our valve was getting sticky. I did these things and now it works smooth with only a shot of silicone once in a while. I put a bit of the lubricant in the tank every time I dump it.
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